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MICHV8
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-- 04-18-2025 @ 5:23 PM
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I was able to remove the 39 steady rods using Mike Kubarth's ground bolt, but after I swapped in a 59AB the rods no longer fit. I marked each as I removed them and nothing other the engine swap is different. I tried to bend one to give it the right angle to the dimple, but no luck. So my question is...what will be the consequences of driving without them.? Bad vibration? chatter in all gears? or worse?
Thanks. I couldn't believe they didn't slip right back where they were before the swap...
This message was edited by MICHV8 on 4-18-25 @ 5:24 PM
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carcrazy
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-- 04-18-2025 @ 11:08 PM
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Most likely the only problem will be clutch chatter when you engage the clutch.
Two ways to get around this problem are to either have new steady rods fabricated of the correct size to fit your application or go to a hydraulic clutch setup. If you go with the hydraulic clutch system with the clutch slave cylinder mounted to the transmission, you won't have to worry about relative motion occurring between the clutch linkage and the engine/transmission assembly as the clutch is engaged.
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MICHV8
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-- 04-19-2025 @ 4:36 AM
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I don't have a way to heat the rods enough to bend them, but will try to find someone who can as I'd rather have the original setup...
Thanks for the reply
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CharlieStephens
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-- 04-19-2025 @ 2:42 PM
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I bet if you put the rod in a vise you could bend it by using a monkey wrench, how much do you need to bend it?
Charlie Stephens
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MICHV8
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-- 04-20-2025 @ 8:51 AM
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not much and I'll give it a try, but it is thick metal for a reason, right?
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kubes40
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-- 04-20-2025 @ 12:45 PM
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If you bend them, it defeats their purpose. They must be STRAIGHT and TIGHTLY installed.
Also, I could be wrong, but I am nearly 100% certain these rods were used (only) through 1941. NOT after that.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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CharlieStephens
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-- 04-20-2025 @ 1:09 PM
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Good point Mike, I was assuming only a slight bend.
Charlie Stephens
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MICHV8
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-- 04-23-2025 @ 4:11 PM
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I did some research and it looks like 1940 was the last year. So I have a 1939 frame and a 59AB which does have the engine boss for the rod, but the angle back to the 1939 frame is slightly off and in addition the floor board sits proud and interrupts the line from the engine to the frame which doesn't allow a full insert into the concave frame receptacle. I tried driving the car without the steady rods today and will never do that again...ungodly shaking, especially in reverse. Is cutting and welding the last resort? Thanks everyone
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carcrazy
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-- 04-23-2025 @ 7:36 PM
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Maybe you will be able to dimple the floor structure area to gain enough clearance for the rods.
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marko39
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-- 04-24-2025 @ 5:19 AM
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there is a member of the ford barn who was making brackets for the steady rods for use on later engines. they didnt look like they would be too hard to make.
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kubes40
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-- 04-24-2025 @ 9:16 AM
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MICHV8, Rods were used through 1941.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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MICHV8
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-- 04-24-2025 @ 1:02 PM
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Mike
Do you know how Ford eliminated the steady rods? Is it a frame addition I could do to my 39? I'm going to try angling the flathead and trans over as a unit up on their mounts and see if it gets me there, but not holding my breath...thanks!
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kubes40
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-- 04-24-2025 @ 2:01 PM
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Mich, these can be a PITA to install once the engine / transmission is installed.
If your 59A block has the holes cast in for the rods, the rods should fit.
Are you simply having a difficult time installing them or did you install them, and they are too long?
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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MICHV8
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-- 04-24-2025 @ 3:41 PM
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It looks as though if I cut off a small section of the floorboard right next to the dimple (dotted line), I might get the beveled bolt of the steady rod inserted into the receiving dimple. I've attached a photo of what came off the car, but the nut on the left is from my inventory. I don't remember anything falling down to the concrete and haven't found anything where the car sat during the steady rod removal. It's possible in the battle to remove that beveled bolt that I somehow missed it. But It sure seems there must have been a bolt underneath that holds the beveled bolt in place because the frame isn't threaded, right? Anyway, thanks everyone...
Mike...they look to be the right length, but the floor board is raised about the frame dimple and the rods pass above the frame...
This message was edited by MICHV8 on 4-24-25 @ 3:45 PM
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kubes40
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-- 04-24-2025 @ 5:39 PM
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Thanks for the photo. Okay, I am, 99% certain what the issue is. The rods will work without modifying them or the floor. I hate to say it but perhaps the best way to go about this is to unfasten the front engine mounts and loosen the rear (transmission) mounts. Jack the engine up a little in the front. Insert rods. Get the bolts inserted through the frame. Let the engine rest back down upon the mounts. Tighten the rods fully. Secure the four mounts.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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MICHV8
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-- 04-25-2025 @ 5:39 AM
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Mike...planning to do exactly that, but for a different reason. It seem the angle the steady rod takes from the engine boss to the frame dimple cuts across the edge of the floorboard. In the photo the dotted line was hard to draw accurately and is a little too far into the floorboard. My hope is that I can nudge the engine/trans unit over enough to eliminate the floor board intrusion from the steady rod path. Right now the steady rod will not sit down in the frame dimple due to the floorboard.
What is the purpose of the notched washer? Does it simply tighten the tolerances of the bolt to the steady rod? And what retains the steady rod/washer/bolt in the frame dimple? Is there indeed a bolt on the underside of the frame dimple? Thanks for the help!
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kubes40
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-- 04-25-2025 @ 7:33 AM
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Mich,
I am starting to wonder exactly where you are attempting to install the rod. Please clarify.
The rod goes BELOW the frame. The special bolt goes through the frame and engages the rod below. The concave external tooth washer simply locks the bolt in place.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
This message was edited by kubes40 on 4-26-25 @ 4:24 PM
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MICHV8
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-- 04-25-2025 @ 3:56 PM
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Mike,
I gotta tell you my brother and I had a good laugh. I had made the "Kubarth Bolt" a few days ago when we were pulling the two engines to make the swap and my brother supplied the muscle to battle with the steady rod bolts. Well days later, we picked the driver side to start putting it all back together and going underneath all the linkage, steering, etc. just never clicked. When I read your last post I told my brother UNDER the frame and he said no way. I explained that if this Kubarth guy says so, then book it! Driver side took some finesse and a couple hammer taps, but it went in and the passenger side was a piece of cake. So big thanks for your knowledge!
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ford38v8
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-- 04-25-2025 @ 6:31 PM
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OMG. I've been following this thread and wondering all the while how there could be so much difficulty in installing those rods!
Alan
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kubes40
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-- 04-26-2025 @ 4:20 PM
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Mich, thanks for the smile you'd given me.
Please do not feel bad. I can't recall how many times I'd wondered "why doesn't this fit" only to go out the next day and put it together in a moment or two.
Glad it all worked out my friend 
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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