| Rob36 | -- 03-30-2025 @ 10:20 AM |
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I recently purchased this 36 Tudor. It was restored in the mid 80's. A few things changed such as it appears to have a 38-40 model engine, battery relocated to the R/H side of firewall and a starter button rather than the foot button and a plastic fuel tank. Other than that it seems like it has what it should. The previous own added it to his collection in 1987. It was run periodically up until about 10-12 years ago. Always in a climate controlled setting. They ran the gas out of it before letting it sit. I got it running the other day. I removed and cleaned the tank, lines, carb and replaced the fuel pump diaphragm. I also replaced the dist with a 6V E-fire. It had no spark and although I've been messing with cars for more than 55 years now i never saw anything like the Helmet dist. I've moved on to the brakes now that it runs. Want to keep the mechanical so the questions I have for that will be in a new post. Anyway I have a few of I'm sure what will be many questions as I good alone. I live in western NC and bought it off a NC dealer. However has a VA title and will need the VIN inspected by a NC DMV inspector. I believe they need to verify two matching VINs. I purchased your 35-36 Ford Book which I find is more helpful than the 32-41 Ford/Mercury Shop Manual. In the book it give three locations for the Vin. I found the one on the top of the frame rail in the engine bay. Can the other frame rail VIN be seen with a mirror if cleaned or is the body in the way? Also the book says the VIN on the trans is stamped just above the inspection plate. I assumed the inspection plate would be on the side of the trans but don't see it. Is the inspection plate the top cover with the shifter? As for literature I have your 35-36 book which is great. The 32-41 shop manual which I believe leaves a lot to be desired. The 32-36 Engine & Chassis manual and the owners manual. Any other must have books you'd recommend for the do it yourselfer? Thanks Rob
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| kirkstad | -- 03-30-2025 @ 1:48 PM |
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Nice looking car Rob. I have a 36 also. If your car has the original transmission, remove the floor cover plate and you will see the vin number near the top center of the transmission in front of the shifter. This number should match your frame number if it has the original trans.
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-30-2025 @ 4:17 PM |
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Rob, Your 3 locations for the serial number on the frame should match your title. only one location is visible ( You found it) unless the body is removed, no mirror can show the other 2. These numbers may or may not match the number on your transmission, depending on whether the tranny has been replaced. Good luck with the electronic ignition. Those animals don't like the under hood heat of an early Ford V8, and are better paired with EFI anyway. The original Ford helmet distributor is a unique design, yes, but easy to understand and very reliable. Should you have trouble with your electronic, question us on the helmet. Good on you for choosing to work with the mechanical brakes, much better for a collector car than hydraulic. The Club's 35-36 book is excellent for returning to original, but is not a mechanics instruction book. For that, go for a MoToRs Manual, about 11th edition to cover the years of your car and engine. Alan
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| Rob36 | -- 03-31-2025 @ 1:37 AM |
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Thanks. Judging by the grease and grime build up on the transmission it may be original to the car. I hope the inspector is satisfied with one frame number. The carpets are glued down well. Hate to ruin them getting at the cover bolts.
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| Rob36 | -- 03-31-2025 @ 1:51 AM |
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Thanks Alan. I hope the E-fire will hold up. I read several good reviews but time will tell. I noticed when I got the helmet dist out that the coil contact was not touching the rotor. There was another coil in a box of stuff behind the seat. May have been a bad used because still no spark after I swapped it. I will certainly keep the helmet. I’ll hunt for that manual thanks
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-31-2025 @ 4:03 AM |
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The upper frame rail engine bay location is the only location to reference for your Ford. If your inspector says different, he's wrong. The 11th edition of MoToRs Manuals was published in 1948, available on etsy, ebay, abebooks, and others in various conditions starting at $10 for fair condition (F) and upward to about $50 for a Very Good (VG) copy. Later editions begin to delete info from earlier years to make room for newer cars. This edition includes all info from the years 1935 to 1947. Alan
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| 40 Coupe | -- 03-31-2025 @ 4:38 AM |
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The carbon brush on the coil should touch the rotor contact point. The brush is spring loaded so when pushed in should return out. Often grease or oil causes the brush to stick. Suggest using contact cleaner to free up the carbon. Then remove the brush and spring by pulling both out. clean the bore of the coil and reinsert the spring and brush. Both the spring and brush are offered from aftermarket sellers. The old original coils with Ford embossed on top can be rebuilt with new internals which make them much more reliable.
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| Rob36 | -- 03-31-2025 @ 2:52 PM |
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Thanks I’ve got an 11th edition coming off eBay. The coil with the stuck carbon has Malford on the top. The other coil is plane.
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| carcrazy | -- 03-31-2025 @ 3:07 PM |
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If you want to take long trips in your old Ford and want a reliable ignition system without the expense of having the original coil rebuilt, you can use a coil adapter. One source for these is C&G . This adapter will allow you to use a "bullet proof" modern tubular coil. If the modern coil should fail on a long trip, a suitable replacement will be available locally almost anywhere you happen to be. https://cgfordparts.com/coil-adapter-37-41-v8-for-2-bolt-coil-78-12036-s.html#description
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| mikecnc | -- 04-01-2025 @ 7:47 AM |
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I live in a suburb of Charlotte and own a 35 Tudor. I have a similar problem, a Missouri title, but had to replace the frame during restoration, therefore vin # is different than the one on the title. I also belong to Hornets Nest Region of AACA and at one of our monthly meetings we had a speaker from the NC DMV who was familiar with the inspection process. I asked her if NC would accept the vin # from the transmission which matches the title vin # and she said NO, only the vin # from the frame was acceptable. My only recourse would be to have the state re-vin the car with a state assigned vin #. So, don't worry, the state inspector won't ask to see the transmission. If you want to meet up, I will be showing my 53 Ford Club Coupe this Saturday in the AACA Southeastern Spring Nationals at the Charlotte Auto Fair located at the Speedway.
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| Rob36 | -- 04-01-2025 @ 9:43 AM |
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I'd like to but can't make it this Saturday. If you ever take a cruise to the mountains feel free to come by. Hudson is on the way up Hwy 321.
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| Rob36 | -- 04-01-2025 @ 9:44 AM |
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Good to know. If this E-fire cr*ps out I'll try to resurrect the helmet.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 05-28-2025 @ 4:36 AM |
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There are two very different original coils for the 36 Ford. Skip Heney in Fla does a fine job of rebuilding coils. If you want the original appearance Skip can most likely supply an original coil core coil and rebuild and time your distributor on a machine, with a good condenser.
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