| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 11-22-2024 @ 3:41 PM |
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HI all experts I would like a few suggestions on how to clean a cooling system on my 37 FORD 85 HP I had distilled water in it with water wetter and water pump lube and for some reason have a white caking on the water pumps, [ it was in there for a lomg time,not realizing that this was happening,] I had a water pump failure on the left side.it made a noise and when it was hor and running it seemed to wobble, and had a shudder you could feel in the car, but now when cooled, it does turn with no problems. and has no other movement I just replaced the pumps with BOB DRAKES, very different, look good, the impellers have many vanes and have holes in back of impellers, should make in provement in the cooling, what should I put in the cooling sustem to clean it, I thought to use vinegar and water or should use a cooling system cleaner that they sell at a autoparts store, I plan on using antifreeze this time, my car is stored in my house in a garage, thanks to all of you, 37RAGTOPMAN ,MAINE
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| 1931 Flamingo | -- 11-23-2024 @ 8:38 AM |
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A lot of Model A people use vinegar, warm it up and flush til clean, DOo NOT drain on a concrete driveway. FWIW Paul in CT.
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| BRL | -- 11-24-2024 @ 8:14 AM |
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Hi 37 Ragtopman: How heavy is the rust you see inside your block? If it is substantial, how about using CRC Evapo-Rust to clean out your block? I suggest this because I am very disappointed with using distilled white vinegar to clean rust off steel and iron parts...even when it does work on very light surface rust it takes over a week of soaking. I have made my own chelate solution which is very similar to Evapo-Rust and it works very well and fast on car parts. I would think if you can block off your water pump holes (or put some pumps back on and block off the outlet) and pour in Evapo-rust and let it sit overnight you should get a good cleaning.
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| Drbrown | -- 11-24-2024 @ 2:27 PM |
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Regardless of what cleaner you use, when done cleaning, flush the cleaner out onto some harmless area. Some cleaner may get trapped in small pockets of the block casting so I flush it two times. I use distilled water for the second flush to minimize minerals in the system. From this point on you likely know the process .... If you need to dilute the anti-freeze use distilled water. After filling with the anti-freeze mix, run the engine to heat it up. This should get trapped air out and any excess fluid, due to expansion, may get forced out the radiator's over flow tube. The final level of the antifreeze mix should be at about 2 inches below the radiator cap. This leaves enough room for normal expansion and contraction. This message was edited by Drbrown on 11-24-24 @ 2:32 PM
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| alanwoodieman | -- 11-24-2024 @ 7:25 PM |
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go to hardware store and purchase vinegar that is more than twice as concentrated than from the grocery store, go thru at least two heat cool cycles and flush with baking soda and lots of water
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| fenbach | -- 11-26-2024 @ 4:44 PM |
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Why not plain old Prestone cooling system cleaner??
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 11-30-2024 @ 12:35 PM |
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HI EXPERT. update , I removed the 2 pumps, this is what i FOUND these were put in a while back, do not remember when, maybe distilled water, water wetter and water pump did not work did I do something Wrong, ? I also bought this cleaner, it says does 12 quarts, so i need to use 1 1/2 containers to do the job,and use baking soda to neutral the coolant enclosed you will see photo's of white cake. these pumps were rebuildt , white cake from heat ? funny thing the left pump looked like it wobbled and seemed to put a shudder in the car,] QUITE BAD,] 40 50 mph [ i think ' we will see when I get to drive the 37 now no play what's so ever, but seems to turn a little hard. Maybe when gets HOT, they seize to try to seize ? I looked into the water out lets, and see hardly any white cake just on the 2 pumps, maybe they were seizing ? and bearing are trun in housing,? I also looked into the upper radiator inlets and to see how they look I ordered a endoscope bore scope to get a better look at what's going on AND if you need ANTIFREEZE BLAINS Farm and Fleet has it for $12.00 I ordered 6 gallons so I have extra, I did hear noises. I installed 2 new pumps from , MIKE DRISCOLL, they say BOB DRAKE, they look real nice, thanks to all, I will let you know how I MADE OUT THANKS 37 RAGTOPMAN, MAINE, GREAT PLACE TO VISIT.... Many cars shows and great ANTIQUE MUSUEMS Like OWLS HEAD TRANSPORATION MUSUEM. and COLES TRANSPORATION MUSUEM ' SEAL COVE MUSUEM by BAR HAROUR, check it out on the WEB
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| Grant | -- 11-30-2024 @ 12:56 PM |
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That white powdery build-up almost looks like oxidation on cast aluminum to me. Is that possible? Perhaps a more knowledgeable member could enlarge your photos and give us their opinion. I'm now wondering if the water pumps on our '36 engine could be deteriorating in a similar manner.
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| BRL | -- 12-01-2024 @ 10:34 AM |
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Hi Guys: I agree, that white material looks like aluminum oxide. Since it appears to be on the impellers, I would guess the impellers are aluminum and they are corroding due to the galvanic corrosion with the neighboring cast iron parts and not having a corrosion inhibitor in the cooling system. You know, modern anti-freeze is formulated to reduce corrosion as well as increase the boiling point of the water. Ragtopman, you indicate you have had just distilled water and water wetter in this block so I really think this is a galvanic corrosion problem and those water pump impellers are made out of aluminum. I dont know what material the OEM design water pump impellers are supposed to be, but I am betting they originally were cast iron.
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| TomC750 | -- 12-01-2024 @ 4:37 PM |
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Yes, original impellers were cast iron. TomE
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| MG | -- 12-01-2024 @ 6:23 PM |
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37RAGTOPMAN - Are your heads aluminum?
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| Drbrown | -- 12-03-2024 @ 7:11 AM |
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Usually Vinegar needs to sit still for a while to do its work. However less time may be needed with stronger mixes of it. Aluminum engine parts: I agree with others here i.e. aluminum present in the cooling system It may have been the existing water pump impellers but any is not good unless corrosion preventers are part of the coolant AND the coolant is changed often to maintain the protection. I have a 1980's GM car that has their early aluminum engine block. They are prone to devastating failure if the antifreeze, with corrosion preventer, is not changed about every 3 years. The castings of later aluminum blacks were subsequently improved but still, mixing different cast metals in coolant is dangerous ground. This message was edited by Drbrown on 12-3-24 @ 7:19 AM
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 12-03-2024 @ 11:25 AM |
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as to what heads, I have are cast iron, it is had to imagine what caused the white cake on the impellers, seems that is the only parts, maybe the water pumps were seizing and we hot, I took a video of the engine running when up to temp and the LS inpeller had a wobble but now when removed I can not find anything wrong with them I talked to the rebuilder and said he would take the LS back to see what was wrong with it, but now I cannot trust either one,maybe if I had replaced the left side how long it would be before theRS would fail it is pain to R and R THEM I bought a new set from Mike D I just got my endoscope camera to see if I can find out and will get back with more information, thanks37 Ragtopman
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