| MICHV8 | -- 09-13-2024 @ 10:43 AM |
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This is next to my resister and certainly looks original...is it? If so, how is it load calibrated or is it static? It is currently by passed by the previous owner which I will fix once I get the radio box out... Thanks
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| kubes40 | -- 09-13-2024 @ 1:05 PM |
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That's the headlamp circuit breaker minus the cover. I'll hazard a guess and say the previous owner bypassed it in order to run full voltage to the lamps. Me? I'd be thinking a circuit breaker is there for a reason  Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| MICHV8 | -- 09-14-2024 @ 6:11 AM |
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thanks Mike...looks like the cigar lighter, voltage regulator, ignition switch feed it with the headlamp and pillar light fed, right? The cigar lighter without the fuse is scary
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-14-2024 @ 12:01 PM |
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Mitch, lots of guys, including me, have discovered the hard way about the scary cigar lighters on early Fords. Most have disconnected the cigar lighter and leave it in place just for looks. The only circuits on the fuse, or in your case the breaker, is the lights. All lighting circuits should be on that breaker, and nothing else. If you have a radio, it will have its own separate in-line fuse. Alan
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| kubes40 | -- 09-14-2024 @ 3:18 PM |
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Alan is correct in his advice. The ONLY fires I have ever had in my Fords (over the course of 50+ years) have started with the cigar lighter or it's wiring. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-14-2024 @ 3:40 PM |
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Mike, I've got a constant reminder of my learning that lesson, in the scars on my hand from pulling on red hot wires. Alan
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| kubes40 | -- 09-15-2024 @ 5:33 AM |
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Alan, I am laughing WITH you. Wanna compare hand injuries some day? Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| MICHV8 | -- 09-20-2024 @ 5:43 AM |
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So the circuit breaker is not a manual reset, but a thermal cool down based on the reduction in resistance right? If so, what is the typical reset time duration?
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| JayChicago | -- 09-22-2024 @ 1:25 PM |
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Yes, thermal cool down automatically resets the circuit breaker based on reduction in current. When the breaker trips open, current stops flowing, breaker cools, resets. Never experienced it, but I think it does this in just a few seconds. If the over-current condition is still present, breaker will continue to trip open-closed. Lights will be flashing off-on, but probably enough lighting to see you home on a country road. This message was edited by JayChicago on 9-22-24 @ 1:53 PM
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| Drbrown | -- 10-03-2024 @ 9:06 AM |
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To be sure, a breaker is a breaker and not a fuse. Not in keeping "original" but to improve safety, I added a 20 amp fuse on my cigarette lighter AND substituted the circuit breaker with a 20 amp fuse before the headlight switch, and separate 20 Amp fuses for the headlight and parking light circuits. In that way a problem can be identified as being either in the headlight or parking light wiring/system. If a circuit beaker is being tripped/activated something is faulty in the switch, wiring or light sockets. A major problem could happen if vehicle parked with switch accidently left on and circuit breaker unknowingly trips and keeps tripping until the breaker points overheat and "weld" or ground-out and a fire occurs. Advantage of a fuse: when a fault occurs, it interrupts the circuit permanently until you can test and fix it. Disadvantage of a fuse: if you're driving at night and headlight fuse blows, switch to parking lights, pull over and replace the fuse, then check for a problem ASAP. Sidenote regarding fuse types .... commonly available two-bladed modern fuses are reported more reliable and available than older glass tube type fuses. The fuse holder insert components are available for both. This message was edited by Drbrown on 10-3-24 @ 9:22 AM
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| 51woodie | -- 10-03-2024 @ 2:36 PM |
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There are manual reset 6 and 12 volt circuit breakers available, that would be easier to work with, as opposed to sorting through the glove or tool box to find the correct rated fuse.
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