| rawlir | -- 09-12-2024 @ 4:23 PM |
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We cannot get our lights to work using a Dennis Carpenter new NOS headlight switch. We think this part MAY be the problem, is there a way to test these? Does someone sell a new Period Correct one or are there other options? Can anyone point to someone we may talk to that really is on top of our problem? Thanks so much!
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| TomO | -- 09-13-2024 @ 10:23 AM |
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The terminal furthest away from the ignition resister is the one for the voltages source, the other 2 terminals are for the load. Connect an ohm meter on the terminal furthest away from the resister and the check each of the other terminals for continuity. Make sure that the yellow wires are on the terminal furthest away from the resister and that you have 6 volts there with the battery connected, then you should have 6 volts on the other 2 terminals, independent of the light switch position. Tom
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| rawlir | -- 09-13-2024 @ 6:50 PM |
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Tom, THANK YOU for your input, we will try that!!! Frustrating..... Have a great weekend!! Rick
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| 51woodie | -- 09-13-2024 @ 8:17 PM |
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I'm not sure how similar the truck wiring is to the car, but these schematics may be helpful in tracing the circuit from the battery to the headlights. The pic with the colored wires is the terminal side of the headlight switch on my '46 coupe, looking from the switch pull end.
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| 51woodie | -- 09-14-2024 @ 4:20 AM |
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Based on the picture you included, the part number for the resistor/circuit breaker assy. you have, is part number 11A 12250 A, and it is a Type 3 configuration. As an aside, the 1950 Ford of Canada list price for this part was $1.40.
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-14-2024 @ 3:37 PM |
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51Woodie, That price of $1.40 was long before my ice cream melted. Alan
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