| deluxe40 | -- 08-10-2010 @ 10:50 AM |
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My '46 heater motor doesn't run and I think I am missing a wire. I searched old posts on this forum and learned that the red and brown wires go to the brushes and the yellow and green wires go to the fields on the heater motor (thanks, TomO & supereal). As I look at the 4 terminals on the back of my switch, I see that the yellow wire goes to the terminal at 12 o'clock, the brown wire to 3 and the red wire to 9 (colors are very faded). The green wire goes to the ignition switch. That leaves nothing on the the switch terminal in the 6 o'clock position. Does that terminal go to ground? (I tried to figure out how the switch works with my ohm meter, but it was too confusing for my old brain.)
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| alanwoodieman | -- 08-10-2010 @ 11:10 AM |
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how about a hot wire connection? you know voltage!!
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| oldford2 | -- 08-10-2010 @ 1:22 PM |
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Ok, Lets see if I can explain this because I recently replaced my switch. They are not being reproduced that I know of but found one at Stacy Browns (antique auto supply, Texas) As you look at he back of the switch 3 terminals face the outside of the switch edge and one faces toward the center. So, the one facing the center is the power wire from the ignition switch. Then from that terminal going clockwise looking at the back of the switch with the power terminal at the bottom, the red wire is at 9 o'clock, the yellow wire is at 12 o'clock and the black (or brown) wire is at 3 o'clock. Then with the switch dial off in the center there are 2 clicks left and 2 clicks right, First click to the right is fast fan for heat and one more click to the right is slow fan for heat. Now back to the off position the first click to the left is fast defrost (pull the defrost cable) and reversed the direction of the fan. Second click to the left is slow fan for defrost. When you pull the defrost knob it directs the reversed air up thru the defrost tubes. So, hope this helps, but ask more questions if I have confused you. No ground needed at the switch. John
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| deluxe40 | -- 08-10-2010 @ 2:29 PM |
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Thanks. Your explanations are clear. On my switch the center facing terminal is at the top and it has a yellow wire connected to it. I have another switch with the center facing terminal at 2 o'clock, so orientation may not be consistent. If I hook the ignition switch (power) to the inward facing terminal, I am still left with the green wire to the heater. Is it daisy chained onto the same (power) terminal (i.e., ignition-> to power terminal->to heater) on the green wire? This was the wire I was trying to replace because it was a mass of black tape and bare wire, but I remember a clump of metal in the middle of that mess that might have been the intermediate connection. By the way, is there supposed to be a fuse anywhere in this circuit? This message was edited by deluxe40 on 8-10-10 @ 2:42 PM
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| oldford2 | -- 08-10-2010 @ 5:17 PM |
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The orientation of the switch when you mount it is not important. After mounting just click to the left till it stops. Then push the knob on so heat/slow is at the top. Then 2 clicks right and the off will be at the top center. No fuse originally but always good to put an inline fuse in the wire from the ignition. I don't know what size though. Depends on how many amps the motor draws. Good idea so I might add one. Have you put power to the wires to the motor to be sure it turns? John
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| deluxe40 | -- 08-10-2010 @ 7:17 PM |
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When I picked the car up back in May I believe I turned the heater knob and heard the motor run. Then, before I got back to it, I heard some sparking and found a piece of wire on the floor. After dealing with things like the parking brake and the radio wiring and making an attempt at the clock, I looked at the heater wiring and saw one open terminal on the switch and an ugly bare wire connected to the ignition. I disconnected the wire from the ignition to avoid fire and am now trying to replace it. The other three wires remain connected to the switch untouched. I really need to review my electric motor theory. I don't know which wires I should put battery on to test the motor. I know it doesn't work putting battery on the green wire and leaving one terminal on the switch open (which is the way I thought it was when I got it).
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| 42wagon | -- 08-11-2010 @ 5:12 PM |
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I am looking at a heater switch wiring diagram. There should be four wires coming from the motor. If you look at the back of the switch there are three contacts around the edge and an oddball contact with a resistor. Starting with the odd contact this is your power wire, it should be red with a black tracer and it goes to the circuit breaker up at the top inside the firewall. For the other three the red wire should be a the nine o'clock position, the yellow wire at the 12 o'clock position, and the brown wire at the three o'clock position. The green wire from the motor should be attached to any convenient grounding spot. This assumes of course that you either have color coded original wiring or a new motor wiring harness from a reputable vendor. If you have wiring that someone made up you will have to figure out which wire is which. According to the diagram green is the short field wire, red is the forward brush wire, yellow is the long field wire and brown is the reverse brush wire. Hope this helps. Ted
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| TomO | -- 08-11-2010 @ 5:46 PM |
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from the photo that you posted, the wire from the ignition switch should go to the top terminal. I cannot determine the color coding on the other wires, so I cannot tell you where they belong. Try the following procedure to get the wiring sorted out. There are 4 wires coming from the motor. The yellow and the green wires come from the field windings and the red and brown wires come from the brushes. If your colors have faded so they all look yellow, I use an ohm meter to make an initial guess as to which wires are from the brushes and which wires are from the field and then I use a battery hooked up to a switch to determine which of the wires used for forward and reverse direction of the motor. Usually you can see a little of the green cast on the green wire and the red color on the red wire. If you connect your ohm meter between the green wire and the yellow wire, you will have near zero ohms resistance. Any other wire will show an open condition. The reading will not vary when you rotate the motor shaft. When you connect the red and brown wires, you will have more resistance than the field connections showed and it will vary slightly as you turn the motor. To check the motor out without a switch, connect the green wire to the POS terminal of a 6 volt battery ( a lantern battery will work for convenience), then connect the yellow (field) wire with the red (brush) wire together and then the remaining brown (brush) wire to the Neg terminal of the battery the motor should run. If you are using a lantern battery, the motor may require some assistance to start. Three of the wires from the motor will be attached to the switch according to the colored dots next to the terminals on the switch, the green wire will be attached to ground and the terminal with the black dot will be attached to a 6 volt source. The red and brown wires control the direction of the motor. When the switch is in the HI Direct position the fan should be blowing air through the heater core. On 1940 heaters this means that the motor is turning counter clockwise. Tom
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| deluxe40 | -- 08-11-2010 @ 7:38 PM |
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Thank you for the excellent explanations. I'll let you know how it works out.
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| deluxe40 | -- 08-12-2010 @ 1:49 PM |
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The heater motor works - forward, reverse, high and low! The light in the knob even comes on. The problems were: the power wire had fallen off completely, the ground wire had become disconnected, and someone, seemingly long ago, had connected the yellow field wire to the power terminal on the switch. The ohm meter test helped me figure that out. Thanks again for all of your help. This is a great forum. This message was edited by deluxe40 on 8-12-10 @ 1:50 PM
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