| voced | -- 07-16-2022 @ 4:55 AM |
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I have had problems with my engine turning over like it should. I have replaced everything in the starting line. New super heavy duty wires, new battery, changed the starter floor switch, and even put on one of those new 6 volt starter. But the car still gives me problems at times like it has a low battery. I just don't know what else to do. Have any of you had problems with those new reproduction starters, floor switches or 6 volt battery. I have also put on extra grounds to make sure that isn't the problem. Sometimes it will spin ove like a new, and other times it just grunts. Thank, Jerry
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| 1931 Flamingo | -- 07-16-2022 @ 10:32 AM |
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Just guessing here but how about the contacts in the ignition switch?? Paul in CT
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-17-2022 @ 4:43 AM |
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We would all be guessing. How about the mounting contact area of the starter to the oil pan. Both the starter and the oil pan should be clear of paint in this area. also the starter motor has a couple of sections that the joints should also be clear of paint. The two long bolts that mount the starter should not have painted threads and the hex heads should have star washers between the rear end plate and the hex head.
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| voced | -- 07-17-2022 @ 4:45 AM |
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It starts great if it turns over correctly. My other Flathead Fords don't have this problem, but this one has gave me trouble and I have tried everything. Jerry
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| carcrazy | -- 07-17-2022 @ 9:10 AM |
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Is your starting problem related to temperature? Have you cleaned and tightened all of the electrical connections in the starting system including all of the ground paths? Are there any parasitic drains on your battery when the engine is turned off and not running? Once you have done all of these external checks and eliminated any obvious concerns, if the problem still persists, you will have to look inside each component of the system to locate and repair the cause of the problem. Your battery voltage may not be sufficient to crank the engine at the required speed when your problem presents itself. Check to make sure your generator is putting out sufficient voltage to keep the battery fully charged. Does the slow cranking speed only occur after the headlights have been used? If so, you will have to run the engine long and fast enough with the lights off to adequately recharge the battery for the next start.
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| marko39 | -- 07-18-2022 @ 6:00 AM |
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Check voltage at starter when this is occurring.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 07-18-2022 @ 7:15 AM |
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was wondering if you have a battery disconnect switch ? I had the same problem, and that switch was the problem, now I use a 1/2 inch wrench ALSO do you have a GOOD GROUND going to engine to chassis ? a corroded ground connetion or loose, or to light a cable hope this helps 37Ragtopman
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| voced | -- 07-19-2022 @ 5:38 AM |
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I have a cutout switch, but bypassed it and didn't make a difference. Also ran several more clean new heavy grounds. This problem has pulled my hair out. It is worse when hot. I did clean the paint under starter and put star washers on. Thanks again for your thoughts. Jerry
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 07-19-2022 @ 6:46 AM |
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I would swap out the starter, for a original maybe the comutator is swelling when HOT and rubbing against the fields, this is A long shot, I have used CERTIFIED AUTO ELECTRIC in OHIO, for rebuilding starters and GENERATORS I am not a fan of this new repro parts that some vendors are selling, my 2 cents 37Ragtopman , Maine ALSO , when engine is HOT, TRY turning the engine over by hand, you could use the hand crank try it cold and hot, was the engine rebuilt ?
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| voced | -- 07-20-2022 @ 5:28 PM |
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I have considered rebuilding the original starter, but it did this before I put on the repo starter. However, I think this is another thing to try. I would guess that the windings on the old starter are better than the new repo ones.
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| voced | -- 07-25-2022 @ 5:50 PM |
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What should the voltage be at the starter when trying to start the car? I took all the grounds off made sure the paint is gone. Even took the starter off and cleaned all the areas. What about going to a 8 volt battery? It is a shame that I have such a nice car and can't enjoy it, because it might not turn over good enough when I get there. Embarrassing.
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| carcrazy | -- 07-25-2022 @ 8:20 PM |
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The results from a Google search for hard starting when hot follow: Bad cell or internal connection inside the battery. Bad connection to a battery terminal, the starter solenoid (either side) or the starter. Starter internally shorted when hot. Here are some other possible causes: Clearances within the engine are too tight when hot reducing cranking RPM. - was the engine recently overhauled? Valve clearances are too tight so valves don't fully close when hot which reduces compression to the point where the engine won't start. Failing coil when hot does not provide sufficient spark to start engine. Vapor lock due to gasoline boiling in the fuel line impeding the flow of fuel to the carburetor. Faulty fuel pump or vacuum leak at top gasket of fuel pump. Leak in fuel line between fuel tank and fuel pump. Fuel line located too close to exhaust pipe allowing fuel to overheat. Two backup items you can carry in the car at all times are starting fluid and jumper cables. Use of these will usually allow you to start the engine unless it has no spark.
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| carcrazy | -- 07-25-2022 @ 8:23 PM |
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Do not go to an 8V battery. This is a band aid that causes many more problems than it can possibly remedy.
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| voced | -- 07-26-2022 @ 4:57 AM |
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Thanks Carcrazy: It happens even if not hot. It also happened before I rebuilt the motor. It runs like a clock. Sometimes it turns over perfectly and 3 out of 4 times it just grunts like a low battery. It has been frustrating considering that I have added grounds, and replaced every item that could cause this. Thanks again for your ideas. Jerry
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| carcrazy | -- 07-26-2022 @ 10:52 AM |
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What has not been changed? You have changed almost everything that could possibly be causing your starting problem. When you crank the engine with the starter, does the RPM vary like the flywheel ring gear could be out-of-round? If the engine cranks slowly when trying to start and all of the electrical system checks out as being good, the problem could be caused by excess friction somewhere. When you go to start the engine, do you have the clutch pedal depressed so the engine does not have to rotate the transmission input shaft and gears? If the transmission gears are being rotated while you try to start the engine and you are using a high viscosity oil, the engine will turn over more slowly. You might want to use SAE 90 weight gear oil in the transmission.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 07-26-2022 @ 2:40 PM |
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SLOW TURNING ENGINE, did you try turning the engine over with a hand crank , cold then hot ???? let us know, thanks 1937 Ragtopman
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| carcrazy | -- 07-26-2022 @ 5:27 PM |
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One way to check to see if the valves are closing all the way is to do a compression test. Good sealing of the valves is required to provide adequate compression to start the engine. Warm the engine up to operating temperature before removing all of the spark plugs (if you have cast iron heads) and do a compression check while the engine is hot.
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| JayChicago | -- 07-27-2022 @ 8:14 AM |
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A reminder: As I understood the posts here, problem is not hard starting, problem is intermittent slow cranking.
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| carcrazy | -- 07-27-2022 @ 12:04 PM |
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Slow cranking could be caused by excessive friction in the engine. Does your engine have the poured Babbitt bearings or the later type of insert bearings on the crankshaft? Because your slow cranking problem is intermittent, suspect something is changing within the engine from time to time. Is the oil clean and free of contaminants like dirt, metallic particles, anti-freeze and water? Contaminants getting onto the bearing surfaces will increase the friction and slow the cranking speeds. If you have the poured Babbitt bearings, the contaminant particles will get impregnated into these "soft" bearings and allow a reduction of the friction to temporarily restore proper cranking speed.
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| TomO | -- 07-27-2022 @ 4:57 PM |
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A rare cause of your problem could be a bad distributor rotor. Remove the inner caps and see if you can rotate the rotor. If you can have the distributor serviced. Worn or bad points can also cause changes in timing that cause the the engine to buck the starter. Do a search for Voltage Drop , all topics and ALL in the past box. Basically you should not see more than 0.6V drop from the NEG post to the starter when cranking the engine with the ignition off. The POS post to the starter mounting bolt should not exceed 0.1V If the grounded voltage is high, your starter is drawing too much current. You can make these tests on a warm engine and should get results even if the starter cranks normally. Tom
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| voced | -- 07-28-2022 @ 4:30 AM |
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thanks Tom; I will check the voltages. Currently I am having the original starter rebuilt and I ordered a new Optima 6 volt battery. Jerry
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-28-2022 @ 8:05 AM |
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36 could have the foot start or the push button. If you have the push button on the dash consider checking voltage on both sides of the firewall solenoid when the engine will not turn over. The problem could be the start solenoid main contacts.
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| voced | -- 08-06-2022 @ 5:35 PM |
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I found the problem. It was one of those new starters that several parts vendors are selling. I rebuilt the original Ford starter and it turns over like a new one. You just can't beat those original Ford parts. Thanks again for of you that gave me suggestions. Jerry
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