| gmcbuffalo | -- 11-27-2021 @ 7:52 PM |
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I ha e rebuilt my early 35 ford v8. Twice now trying to start it I have leak oil out of the foyer pin hole I the clutch housing. First time I dropped the pan and replaced the cork gasket. It still leaks.I have three of these engines. The original pan had a large hole for an oil drain but no plug so I used a pan off of one of the other engines. Is there a difference in oil pans causing the pan not to press into the cork gasket. This the only reason I can think of to cause my leak. It is a real effort to drop the pan so I my remove the engine to do whatever is needed. GregM Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe
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| 40 Coupe | -- 11-28-2021 @ 5:25 AM |
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The 35 engine does leak a bit from the cotter pin hole on the oil pan. Installing a high volume oil pump will increase the leak. The return pipe on the rear main can also be slightly blocked causing oil to build up in the rear main. Excessive crankshaft end play can also be a problem. The 35 oil pan has the smaller oil drain plug not the 2" style of the later engine.
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| gmcbuffalo | -- 11-28-2021 @ 1:51 PM |
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Not talking about a few drops but literally a 8” puddle after a few cranks. That cork strip is not setting well for some reason. Brand new babbet mains. Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe
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| TomO | -- 11-28-2021 @ 2:15 PM |
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You may see small drips out of the clutch housing part of the oil pan after driving the car, but if you have not driven the car and are seeing a lot of oil dripping from the cotter pin hole, you have something wrong in the assembly of the engine. I suggest that you remove the engine and check that the gasket for the oil pump drive gear at the back of the camshaft is in place. Make sure that the plug for the oil galley is tight. Check to see if the slinger is not bent and is riding in the center of the groove on the pot metal seal. You seem to think that the cork gasket for the rear of the oil pan is not sealing. You should be able to see the effects of this when you remove the pan. Try running a strip of gasket cement in the center of the groove for the seal, install the seal and then install the oil pan with a few bolts so there is enough pressure on the seal to keep it seated. Let it sit overnight and then remove the pan and look at the seal to determine that the pan left a groove in the center of the seal. Next, put some gasket sealer at the ends of the seal and in the groove in the seal and install the oil pan. If those are all good and you are using a stock oil pump, I would check the rear main bearing clearances. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 11-28-21 @ 2:25 PM
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| alanwoodieman | -- 11-28-2021 @ 2:33 PM |
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oil leaking out that fast is probably the rear gallery plug or the drive gear cover gasket as was suggested by tom o
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| carcrazy | -- 11-28-2021 @ 5:33 PM |
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Be sure to run only a straight SAE 30 conventional detergent motor oil in the engine. Use of multigrade, thinner single weight straight oils or synthetic oils will increase the rate of leakage.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 11-29-2021 @ 7:32 AM |
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rear seal oil leak On the back of the block is a oil pump drive gear that runs off the back of camshaft, did you replace the housing with a new gear ? this gasket if not replaced could be the cause of the bad oil leak. I have seen if the grooves in the rear main babbit bearing were not grooved in, cause a bad oil leak, let hear how you make out , my 2 cents 37Ragtopman I have a 80 lb pump in my engine with no more leak then it had with the 50 lb pump did not change the pressure relief valve, this might be the difference,?
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