| egelus | -- 08-03-2021 @ 6:41 AM |
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Is anyone manufacturing new blocks for 21 stud engines. Just had an engine build to replace a cracked block, I'm tearing down recent build with a air leak and fear I might have the same problem. Hoping it is just the head gasket or head but my gut feeling is a cracked block. New rebuild ran fine for about 300 miles before developing the air leak. I'm ready to buy new block if this is the case. Not trusting redone old blocks. I have two cylinders leaking that are not adjacent.
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| coilover | -- 08-03-2021 @ 8:03 AM |
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The French had new 24 stud blocks but I think that source has dried up. Some differences from the Ford block with the biggest being no fuel pump provision. Friend used one in a Bonneville car and a cylinder wall blew out at speed. Has a blower on it so boost was a factor.
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| 1931 Flamingo | -- 08-03-2021 @ 9:21 AM |
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I believe there is (was) a fellow on the Ford Barn (Todd, casts model A heads, blocks) who was going to make blocks (probably NOT 221's). Paul in CT
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| 40 Coupe | -- 08-04-2021 @ 8:15 AM |
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No new blocks as far as I am aware. Suggest you re-torque the heads. As a rebuilt block it is necessary to re-torque the heads after a couple of heat and cool cycles. Re-torque cold and wait a few more heat cycles and then re-torque again, all to the same value as originally torqued. Possible you have a couple of sticking or bent valves. I am not sure what an air leak is. Are you doing a leak down test? If so try some MMO in the engine oil and run the car, if possible. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 8-4-21 @ 8:20 AM
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| supereal | -- 08-05-2021 @ 8:36 AM |
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The chances of someone casting new blocks are slim and none. The core system is hugely complex, and yet produces a large number of defective blocks. I recall a visit to the Rouge plant many years ago and was surprised to see a huge mountain of discarded blocks outside the building. If you suspect that your block is cracked, have it disassembled and inspected by a good shop. We see several blocks at our shop each year, and are able to repair some, based on the location and size of the problem. We drill and tap cracks and insert threaded plugs, if the crack is in the valve seat area, a common place. Cracks in the sides of the cylinder can be fixed by boring and sleeving unless the crack extends from the bottom into the water jacket. This is not inexpensive, but with the scarcity of blocks, may be the only solution.
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