| 39Fordfan | -- 05-03-2021 @ 6:43 PM |
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Hello there, I got my '39 Deluxe out of storage on Saturday. As I mentioned in a recent post I've suspected I've got head gasket issues. Tonight I took the fan belt off and opened up the top hose at the head and started it up and sure enough I get a bubble the size of a quarter-about every 7 seconds. I took some video of it and did a screen capture photo from the one on the driver's side. Any tips about replacing the head gaskets would be most appreciated. Thank-you so much for your help! This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 5-3-21 @ 11:06 PM
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| 40 Coupe | -- 05-04-2021 @ 4:32 AM |
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What engine do you have in your 39? Original 85HP was the 81A. If so use the 41A Ford head gasket. You will find they have small coolant holes in the front of the gasket and larger coolant holes at the rear. These gaskets were developed to aid in coolant flow to the back of the engine block. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 5-4-21 @ 4:35 AM
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| carcrazy | -- 05-04-2021 @ 10:11 AM |
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There is no need to remove the studs as long as you can remove the nuts. The original studs and nuts are of better quality than most of the replacements that are available. If any of the studs come loose as you remove the nuts from them, place a sealant, Permatex #2 or similar, on the threads of the stud that screw into the block to prevent leaks. If you take the heads to a machine shop, you can have them degreased, Magnafluxed, glassbeaded, and resurfaced.
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| 39Fordfan | -- 05-04-2021 @ 6:04 PM |
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Hello 40 Coupe, When I went to pick up my new head gaskets I asked about the point you made and I will be installing the 41A Head Gaskets. Thank-you very much!
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| 39Fordfan | -- 05-04-2021 @ 6:08 PM |
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Hi carcrazy, That is good to know. I will hopefully be able to turn all of the nuts off without loosening or breaking any studs. It's been a good running car, so I am hoping they all come off nice and easy. I might even have a machine shop that does this sort of work a mile from where I live. I'm hoping to find out for sure tomorrow. Great Thanks!
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| 39Fordfan | -- 05-04-2021 @ 6:12 PM |
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Can anybody tell me what you prefer to use on the gaskets when you install them? I was told Permatex copper spray. Also, does anybody have a diagram of the proper tightening order when I reinstall the heads? Thanks! This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 5-4-21 @ 6:14 PM
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| 40 Coupe | -- 05-05-2021 @ 4:35 AM |
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I use nothing on the head gaskets but a lot of guys like Copper Coat or just some grease. When you tighten go in three steps to the proper finished torque. Start in the middle and work outward evenly one side to the other and back and forth until all are torqued. After several cycles of engine hot to cold Retorque at the finish torque again start in the middle and work outward from side to side do this with the engine cold.
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| TomO | -- 05-05-2021 @ 9:42 AM |
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I also use nothing on the gaskets. Here is a link to the chart for tightening the head nuts: http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_cylinderhead_torque-specs.htm I use an impact wrench to remove the head nuts and have never broken a stud. You can use a good penetrating oil for several day before you try to remove them to reduce the chance of breaking a stud. Tom
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| 39Fordfan | -- 05-05-2021 @ 11:15 AM |
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40coupe, Good information. I really appreciate it...
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| 39Fordfan | -- 05-05-2021 @ 11:22 AM |
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Tomo, Great Thanks! I've been soaking the nuts overnight and tested several of them with a breaker bar and they came off pretty well. It's been a good running engine so I'm thinking and hoping they'll all come off without much of a fight. I've been trying to get the courage to go with the impact, but I'll probably just muscle all of them with the breaker just to play it safe. Thanks again...
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| 39Fordfan | -- 05-05-2021 @ 4:22 PM |
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So the good news is that I got all of the nuts off without breaking any studs. But now I have two problems... 1) I can not get the heads off of the block. It's almost as if they are welded on. I have definitely not tried to do any sort of prying or hammering. Is there some sort of head puller device that can safely be used to get the heads up off of the block? 2) The temperature sensor on the driver's side head is stuck in the head. I was able to unscrew the large cap nut with the hole in it, but the brass sensor remains stuck in the head. It's in there so tight that I think someone glued it in because the big nut certainly isn't holding it in now. I put a heavy dose of Deep Creep on it and gently tried to push it up with a large bent screw driver but it's still stuck in there. I took a couple of pictures of it for you. Any thoughts? Thanks!
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| carcrazy | -- 05-05-2021 @ 7:37 PM |
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To get the heads off of the block, put nuts on at least two of the studs very loosely (thread them on only a couple of turns), put the spark plugs back in the heads and crank the engine over with the starter motor. The compression in the cylinders should pop the heads free. If this doesn't work, as a last resort, you can attempt to start the engine with the ignition turned on. If the heads still won't pop free, soak them at the joint between the head and the block with PB Blaster and let them soak overnight and try the above procedure tomorrow.
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| TomO | -- 05-06-2021 @ 5:29 PM |
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You can try using vinegar to dissolve the calcium deposits holding the temperature sensor in the head.. You may have to add the solution several times to loosen the sensor. If that doesn't work try Evaporust, their site says it doesn't hurt brass. Tom
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| 40 Coupe | -- 05-07-2021 @ 4:45 AM |
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The threads in the head are NPT, the threads on the compression nut on the gauge are standard machine thread. I am surprised there was not a coolant leak! If there was someone may have used some type of glue to get it to seal??? Suggest you use a tool through the larger radiator hose connection point to see if you can get the gauge bulb it to loosen. and then remove it. When reinstalling Ford had a special fitting for this exact purpose. I think Third Gen Auto or NAPA may have the brass fitting.
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| 39Fordfan | -- 05-08-2021 @ 10:21 AM |
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Thank-you, TomO. I put a lot of Deep Creep on it and wiggled it out the next day. It was definitely JB Welded in. The threads on the head were stripped...
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| 39Fordfan | -- 05-08-2021 @ 10:26 AM |
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40 Coupe, Good to know what kind of threads that were in the head because the one on the driver's side was stripped out and they used JB Weld to hold the sensor in. It worked good with no leaks. I soaked overnight with Deep Creep and wiggled it out the next day. I'm not sure what the best fix is going to be when I put it back together? What would you suggest?
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| TomO | -- 05-09-2021 @ 9:47 AM |
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If the threads are butchered, I would place a want ad for a correct head. If they used JB Weld because they did not have the correct fitting, just clean the threads and get the correct fitting. Tom
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| 39Fordfan | -- 05-13-2021 @ 12:02 PM |
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Hi TomO, Thank-you for your reply. Little Dearborn has an adaptor, apparently for this application. As I understand it, in 1940 Ford went to an electric temperature gauge sensor and made an adaptor to interface a 1940 style electric gauge port with a 1939 style brass-gauge sensor port. It's certainly worth a try since I struck out in locating a new head, unless of course going to the Edelbrock heads for $720 per side, which I don't want to do for this car. I'll probably keep looking and place an Ad. as you mentioned though for the next project...
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