| silverchief | -- 09-14-2020 @ 9:34 AM |
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My heater motor in my 46 has never turned more than veery slow = easily stopped with one finger. Working wilrh a schematic - tracing motor and switch wiring has never resolved the problem. Yesterday, following an old thread by Tom O, I hooked up a fully charged 6 volt lantern battery in lieu of the cars ignition. Fan ran forward and back but still only very slow turn over. Power to the heater switch comes from my under the dash resistor, through a fused wire to the bottom terminal on the switch - correct. Using a meter, I checked the voltage coming into the fuse from the resistor. 6 volts Reinstalled the fuse in its case, and using the meter, I checked the voltage being received at the bottom terminal at the switch. 6 volts Turning the switch 2 clicks right, very slow speed forward. Turning the switch 2 clicks left, very slow speed in reverse. At this point can I assume the motor is bad.? If so I will buy one of the "universal" motors from one of our vendors. Not looking forward to tearing into the heater. Can the motor be replaced without removing the heater from the firewall. I would appreciate any suggestions members who have done it. Thanks very much. .
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| cliftford | -- 09-14-2020 @ 10:13 AM |
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These motors have a fast and slow speed in each direction. Turning it one click in either direction should give you a fast speed.
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| silverchief | -- 09-14-2020 @ 10:43 AM |
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To clarify - one click or two in either direction makes no change from the very slow speed.
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| Bill E Bob | -- 09-14-2020 @ 11:36 AM |
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May just need a cleaning and a bit of lubrication. Aim low--Achieve your goals.
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| TomO | -- 09-16-2020 @ 7:34 AM |
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Bill, I would not buy one of the universal motors, I would take it to a place that rebuilds starters and generators and ask them if they can check it out. Bill you can use this procedure with your 6 volt battery in the car, just connect the green wire to the 6 volts in the car. The motor should run at full speed, if it doesn't you will have to have it serviced. You can try oiling the 2 bushings first. There are 4 wires coming from the motor. The yellow and the green wires come from the field windings and the red and brown wires come from the brushes. If your colors have faded so they all look yellow, I use an ohm meter to make an initial guess as to which wires are from the brushes and which wires are from the field and then I use a battery hooked up to a switch to determine which of the wires used for forward and reverse direction of the motor. Usually you can see a little of the green cast on the green wire and the red color on the red wire. If you connect your ohm meter between the green wire and the yellow wire, you will have near zero ohms resistance. Any other wire will show an open condition. The reading will not vary when you rotate the motor shaft. When you connect the red and brown wires, you will have more resistance than the field connections showed and it will vary slightly as you turn the motor. To check the motor out without a switch, connect the green wire to the POS terminal of a 6 volt battery ( a lantern battery will work for convenience), then connect the yellow (field) wire with the red (brush) wire together and then the remaining brown (brush) wire to the Neg terminal of the battery the motor should run. If you are using a lantern battery, the motor may require some assistance to start. If it runs full speed then the problem is in the switch. Tom
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| silverchief | -- 09-16-2020 @ 3:18 PM |
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Thanks for all the help. I am going to pull the motor and take it somewhere to have it tested.
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| 51woodie | -- 09-17-2020 @ 3:52 AM |
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When I took the heater in my '46 Super Deluxe apart, to have the core cleaned and pressure tested, I found the motor only had two leads, red and black. However the heater switch has a few different positions, not just on and off. What am I missing? It is a replacement motor, so I don't know what the original would be like. Any one have pictures of an original or a wiring diagram? Silverchief. My motor was slow as well, but some cleaning and a bit of lube fixed that.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-17-2020 @ 6:18 AM |
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hi silverchief did you try spraying electric motive cleaner inside the motor,? your brushes are making bad contact on the commutator because it is dirty from lack of use, this cleaner will clean it without removal, if you hit the right spots, you can do this while it is running, and you will see it speed it up also the bushing will also need oiling, just a drop or so, hope this helps 1937Ragtopman ,
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| TomO | -- 09-17-2020 @ 7:20 AM |
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51 Woodie,you can buy a reproduction wiring harness and have your aftermarket motor rewired to work with the switch. Use the instructions in my previous post to determine where the wires go. Tom
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| 51woodie | -- 09-18-2020 @ 9:35 AM |
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Tom. I looked through my service manual and green book for info on the heater motor, wiring and controls. Nothing in the service manual, as I understand the heaters were installed as an option at the dealership. The Green book shows the motor as P/N 6A-18527-A (if I read the book right) but I'm not clear on the wiring harness. Are these motors available, and how would I find the associated wiring harness? Also, my defrost control is missing. do you have any info on them or a picture?
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| TomO | -- 09-19-2020 @ 7:37 AM |
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Here is a link to the wiring harness from C & G parts. Other vendors have them also. https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat.php?searchtype=Search&year_choice=46&searchtextdesc=heater+wiring&sd=Search&searchnumber=55-6v There is no Ford P/N for them as they are considered part of the motor. The harness comes with a wiring diagram. You must use the 1946 type heater switch. Someone may have a NOS motor, but I am not aware of any. Are you missing the dash mounting and cable for the defroster, or the defroster part of the heater or the defroster tubes at the windshield? Tom
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| 51woodie | -- 09-20-2020 @ 1:51 PM |
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Tom. I am missing the control from the panel to the heater. I have the lever on the heater tywraped to the defrost position for now, but would like to have the correct parts to install.
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| TomO | -- 09-21-2020 @ 3:48 PM |
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Here is a photo of the cable attached to the heater and to the plate. It is attached at the heater by several turns of the cable that make a slip on connection and at the dash plate by a nut on the backside of the plate. The knob has a D on it and is similar to the dash knobs. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 9-21-20 @ 3:59 PM
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| merichoffman | -- 09-21-2020 @ 6:35 PM |
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Here are some files that might help with diagnosing your problem. Cheers, Meric Hoffman, New Zealand.
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| 51woodie | -- 09-21-2020 @ 7:02 PM |
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Tom. Thank you for the picture of the heater assembly Meric. Welcome to EFV8 and thank you for the heater documentation
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| 51woodie | -- 09-22-2020 @ 7:44 AM |
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Meric. I tried to PM you, but you have your Private Messaging turned off.
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| whizzerbug | -- 09-22-2020 @ 7:57 AM |
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I have a good used correct 1946-48 heater motor in working cond $75 if anyone needs one
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