Topic: Strange noise


46coupe    -- 01-30-2020 @ 4:06 AM
  The car is a 46 sedan coupe. Cooper has a new noise which I hope you all can help me diagnose without being here. I'll try to be brief, but detailed.
Car at idle, no noise. Driving through the gears the noise starts and continues at the same level no matter what the speed. It only happens on acceleration. When my foot is off the gas,no noise. The sound is metallic, like two objects moving against each other, or a very fast vibration.
I'm going to check for loose covers, pipes, etc but thought I would contact all of you for more ideas. Possibly someone has experienced this on their car, I'll try to answer any questions anyone might have, as I know that it is very difficult to diagnose something like this from a distance.
Thanks for any help you can provide.


cliftford    -- 01-30-2020 @ 6:34 AM
  Just a wild guess: worn u joint or torque tube bearing.


sarahcecelia    -- 01-30-2020 @ 6:56 AM
  If it's a "whine,", in all probabiltiy, it 's the rear end. Could be worn ring gear, pinion gear, or bearings.Could also be the transmission gears or bearings.

The way to find out is have someone sit in the rear seat to listen to the rear; not the rear?; transmisssion!

Regards, Steve Lee

This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 1-30-20 @ 7:06 AM


46coupe    -- 01-30-2020 @ 7:57 AM
  Good suggestions. I'll be checking them out. However, when I lift off the accelerator the car is still in gear and the noise stops. Wouldn't the gears in either location still be making the noise only slower due to the car slowing down? I'm planning on putting the car on a lift and running the it in gear to see if the noise happens when there is no load on the car.
If there is a noise I can check where it is coming from.


ford38v8    -- 01-30-2020 @ 8:38 AM
  Your motor mounts may be worn out, causing your engine to lean to the side as you accelerate, bringing your fan blade close to the radiator, which ticks and clicks when it touches. The lean over may also cause your exhaust pipe to vibrate against the frame.

Alan


46coupe    -- 01-30-2020 @ 11:38 AM
  Alan,
Thanks for the suggestion. I plan on replacing the mounts soon. Have them on my bench. My passenger side mount is the worse of the two. If that is what is happening would the blade leave small marks on the radiator? Revving the engine when the car is not moving doesn't make the noise. only when moving. I'll check it now anyway.


ford38v8    -- 01-30-2020 @ 12:32 PM
  Revving in neutral wouldn't torque the engine sufficiently to twist it sideways on the motor mounts, however, making the engine work against the driveline would do it. Yes, there may be marks on the radiator, but remember it only takes a small contact point to make the noise you describe.

Alan

PS~ As a side note on changing motor mounts, refresh your lower hoses at the same time to avoid issues with them later. This is the time to do both jobs together, the hoses will self align with the radiator outlets as you lower the motor onto the motor mounts, all you need do is to guide the hoses on while lowering. Remember to use a short section of 2x8 under the oil pan to prevent damage from the floor jack, and eyeball the oil sender unit for interference with the firewall.

This message was edited by ford38v8 on 1-30-20 @ 12:42 PM


46coupe    -- 01-30-2020 @ 12:49 PM
  I checked the radiator and there is an arc mark on the passenger side of center on the radiator. It's not much and could have been there all along. It's a little shiny so I think I'll blacken it, drive the car and see if it comes back.
I have no one to help with the motor mount install, which seems easier than tearing down the rear end or trans.
Thanks and I will let you all know what I find in a few days.


sarahcecelia    -- 01-30-2020 @ 2:33 PM
  No! A whine in the rear or in the transmission could go away, but not necessarily! It could contine when you let of of the gas.

Regards, Steve Lee


sarahcecelia    -- 01-30-2020 @ 2:39 PM
  I seriously doubt that it's the fan hitting the radiator; that would be too obvious. you'd see marks on the fins on the inner side of it, and that would NOT be a noise only in gerar and driving; you'd hear it at idle speed,because those fan blades are stiff and do not flex!'

IT's IN THE TRANSMISSION ORV REAR END!!

Regards, Steve Lee


ford38v8    -- 01-30-2020 @ 9:35 PM
  Steve, you certainly have a right to your opinion, but don't go dump on the well experienced opinions of others. Just state your own opinion and let it go at that.

Alan


37RAGTOPMAN    -- 01-31-2020 @ 6:57 AM
  hi
while you are looking around check the fan for loose blades, or cracks ?
or loose pulleys, including water pumps and fan belt for hardness, cracks,brittle ? etc,

but it does sound like a trans problem or rear end,
drain the trans and run a magnet though the oil and see if you can find any metal
and do the same with the rear end,
once the rear is drained you might be able to look in the rear to see the ring gear ?
also check the wheel lug nuts and rear axle nuts,
my 2 cents 1937RAGTOPMAN


carcrazy    -- 01-31-2020 @ 7:13 AM
  It could be an exhaust pipe rubbing against the frame or handbrake cable. If the car has dual exhausts, check the left exhaust pipe first as it is routed through a more restricted area.


JayChicago    -- 01-31-2020 @ 9:23 AM
  Guys, don't overlook this symptom from the original post:
" Driving through the gears the noise starts and continues at the same level no matter what the speed."

If it was in the drive train, wouldn't the noise change with speed?




cliftford    -- 01-31-2020 @ 7:11 PM
  This proves what I've always said: all of this online diagnosing, even by the most knowlegable of us, is at best just educated guesswork. You need to have the car sitting in front of you to really tell what is going on.


46coupe    -- 02-01-2020 @ 4:42 AM
 
Cliftford is correct regarding guesswork without seeing the car. I addressed that in my original post. However, having very limited experience with these cars, I was looking for ideas as where to start on my troubleshooting. All of you have given me a lot of information to begin the process and I want to thank everyone for your help. I'll begin the testing this coming week and will post here what I have found. I'm praying it's something simple. I've no room to pull out rearends, torque tubes, engines, etc or the know how to repair them. If any of the people who read this are in the Charlotte NC/ Columbia SC area I would really like to hear from you. Anyway I'll keep ya'll posted and thanks again for your help and ideas. That's one of the reasons I joined this club.
Brad


TomO    -- 02-01-2020 @ 8:13 AM
  I have no idea as to the cause of your noise. Here are some choices to isolate the sound.

Try contacting the Blue Ridge Regional Group to see if someone in the Regional Group could give you some advice.

Jay has noted that you said that the sound level did not change with speed, I would like to know if the frequency changes as the speed increases.

You could also post a You-Tube video with sound recorded with your cell phone.

Tom


GK1918    -- 02-14-2020 @ 5:36 AM
  We have a 1950 F6 bought new at some point the rear end went dry and they kept on
going. Till this day since then it sounds the same as yours growling under load and
quiet no load. I been wrenching for 60 yrs and are no and's ifs or buts: the ring
and pinion and or bearings are toast nothing to do with mounts or fans. Whether its
winning or growling thats a ring and pinion problem . All these parts, many venders
have in stock with a choice of ratios. Its a 12 pack beer job LOL My son bought a
1931 Murry body model A exactly the same simptons you have. So I took the axle apart and (this was loud all gears and nothing when coast) I found NO pinion
bearing or race it was blue from heat. We replaced every thing from I Think "Joes or Tams" in Mass. comes with all shims gaskets ; think we went to 3:54
ring and pinion now its a dream sam

This message was edited by GK1918 on 2-14-20 @ 5:47 AM


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