| lightflyer1 | -- 06-01-2010 @ 12:13 PM |
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Went for a drive yesterday and had to turn back due to brake pedal getting too close to the floor. I read some here and it seems I should be able to readjust them by turning an adjuster at each wheel. Is this correct? They have worked very well so far for the past two years and the car stops straight on.
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| supereal | -- 06-01-2010 @ 12:24 PM |
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The correct way to adjust rod type mechanical brakes is to back off the adjusters on the backing plates, then block the pedal about half way down. With all wheels off the ground, adjust the clevis on each rod until the lining just contacts the drum. Replace any badly worn pins and clevises on each end of the rods. Once the rods are adjusted, and the pedal released, do any further brake adjustments at the backing plates only, not the clevis. Be sure the cross shaft end bushings are not loose. If the brakes are still a bit "iffy", install woven linings if you have the hard type.
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| lightflyer1 | -- 06-01-2010 @ 2:32 PM |
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Thanks! I will give it a shot this weekend.
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| supereal | -- 06-02-2010 @ 9:10 AM |
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Good luck. Mechanical brakes in good condition, and properly adjusted, should be able to slide the tires in a "panic" stop. The real trick is to get them equalized so the car doesn't veer when you stomp on the pedal. That is why the rods are adjusted first to make the distance between the wheels and the cross shaft the same.
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| Henryat1140 | -- 06-17-2010 @ 7:28 PM |
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Supereal, Hello, I've been sort of wrestling with the the adjustment on my 36 (totally stock) brakes. I have new woven linings. Cleaned and very lightly lubed all adjusting parts and the brakes do work well. Problem is they are not consistent. They sometimes pull and sometimes not. I've been using the ABC's procedure in the ford service literature but am now ready to try your system. My question regards your step 1 where you say 'back off the adjusters on the backing plates', Could you be a little more specific? Do you mean wind them all the way back, or just far enough out so they are not affecting the next step, blocking the pedal and adjusting the rods? Sorry if I'm being dense - and thanks for the help. Henry
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| supereal | -- 06-18-2010 @ 10:16 AM |
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Henry: The wedge adjusters should be backed off all the way. The first part of the procedure is to equalize all of the rods in relation to the cross shaft so the wedges can furnish the more exact adjustment. Mechanical brakes that still pull one way or the other likely have badly worn wedges and/or wedge pins. As these parts are usually not reproduced, it is commonly necessary to weld on new metal and grind them to fit. Otherwise the wedges will not uniformly apply the shoes. These parts are not lubricated, so much wear is common. From your description, it appears you have maintained the system as best you can, but worn wedges are probably at fault. I'm glad to help where I can. The hallmark of this Forum is that there are no dumb questions here, although some of the answers are questionable. P.S.: A bit of digging shows 35-36 brakes wedges at C&G, page 45 of their catalog which is online at www.cgfordparts.com This message was edited by supereal on 6-18-10 @ 11:32 AM
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