Topic: Power valve

silverchief    -- 06-11-2019 @ 8:56 AM
  Floor pan under my 46 confirms a small oil leak ever since I have owned the car. Strangely enough, at the end of the season the stick shows no real loss of oil. Sooty tail pipe extensions and somewhat sooty plugs confirm the carb is running rich,. but great engine performance and limited knowledge have prevented me from messing with carb adjustments.

However, I run a full time electric fuel pump, and a recent thread
mentioned a regulator setting being too high, forcing fuel past the power valve, and down into the oil pan. I moved my regulator down from two to one, but am wondering if excess gas diluting the oil may be why I show no oil loss , and evidence of r running rich.

Any thoughts as to how I might confirm this without looking at the power valve will be appreciated.

sarahcecelia    -- 06-11-2019 @ 1:01 PM
  Take the oil fill cap off , light a match so you can look in the pan for gas! You'll know very shortlyif any is present !!! Ha, Ha!!!
No, really, pull the dip stick and smell the oil; you might smell any gas that is in it; if not the gas going in the pan may be marginal.

Regards, Steve Lee

This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 6-12-19 @ 9:09 AM

sarahcecelia    -- 06-11-2019 @ 1:05 PM
  Carb running rich could be many things. Wrong main jets, past owner drilled them larger, choke on partially, wrong float level, etc., etc., etc.

Regards, Steve Lee

sarahcecelia    -- 06-11-2019 @ 1:25 PM
  My 50 sedan, and all of them, leak slightly at the oil drain plug. After a year I can check the dip stick and it is on full; remember, a drop or so would take a long time to see on the dip stick. When I was 18 in 1955, I had a 50 ford sedan and it leaked a slight bit at the drain plug- "That's the nature of the beast!" I cured it on my 50 that I own now, by putting Teflon tape on the threads of the drain plug. If you do that, remember to wind the tape on COUNTER CLOCKWISE, so you don't unwind it as you thread the plug in!!Those drain plugs should have been made with fine threads and a better gasket so they wouldn't leak. You can also make a gasket, out of the "thicker"( about 1/32") gasket material, and put it on that drain plug when you dump the oil. Those nylon and Copper ones won't stop the leak!!( they are too hard to make a seal!!) P.S. Use kitty litter in your floor pan to absorb oil; it's way cheaper then Stays-Dry from the auto supply houses!!

Regards, Steve Lee

silverchief    -- 06-11-2019 @ 2:05 PM
  Thanks guys. Never any sign of a leak at the pan plug so I assume it is the rear seal. I think I will do the sniff test on the oil stick, and perhaps touch a flame to the small oil residue in the floor pan. If neither gives any evidence of gas I'm just going to watch the exhaust extensions to see if they soot up again. Perhaps me reducing the pressure allowed through the gas regulator will help things.

sarahcecelia    -- 06-12-2019 @ 9:32 AM
  You realize, that the rear seal won't leak gas into the oil pan, don't you??

If you do install a new rear seal, put the joint of the two halves at about 2 and 8 o'clock; NEVER AT THE SEAM OF THE OILPAN!! - (3+ 9 o'clock!). To install that seal you have to loosen the main bearing caps; a little at the front one , a little more at the middle one and even more at the rear one to get room to get the seal in, letting the crank hang at a little angle Then you can "fish it" in around the top of the crank shaft ; and soak it in motor oil for and hour or two before installing it. Also; the seal halves should be installed just A LITTLE TOO LONG, about a scant 1/8th inch so the ends will butt tight and not leak at the butt joints.

Regards, Steve Lee

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