| silverchief | -- 05-31-2019 @ 5:31 PM |
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1946 coupe - stock, ......entire new wiring harness last year, no operational problems since then. Relative new battery - tests out fine, as of yesterday. Took in for test because twice recently pushing starter button resulted only in a click. Assumed defective battery. Re installed today and it started car just fine several times. Shut it off to adjust idle, and afterwards pushing starter button resulted in only another click. Voltmeter showed slightly above six volts. However all lights are bright and horn works. Now I know starting problem is not the battery. This is a strong number 8 car - not a beater. All electronics are in very good condition. Looking through our forum threads re these symtoms , most test suggestions require cranking the engine - which is not an option here. The first few times , pushing starter button resulted in solenoid click or bump at the starter. Now nothing. Solenoid is a year old. Normally the car starts with about 1/4 turn of the crankshaft. Considering pulling the starter for testing. Any other suggestions before I do that?
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| MG | -- 05-31-2019 @ 6:07 PM |
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Sounds to me as though the starter pinion gear is hanging up on the flywheel ring gear. Make sure the starter is not loose in its mounting - make sure the two bolts holding it in place are tight....Also, make sure that the connections are tight at the starter solenoid and at the starter mortor.... The starter can be tested independently without removing it by connecting an external battery directly to the starters post and ground using common jumper cables. > Make sure the car is in neutral and the ignition is turned OFF when doing this. If the starter turns during this procedure, suspect the solenoid and/or its connections. Suspect all connections in the starting circuit. What is the condition of your battery cables? Are they the correct size/gauge? Are the battery cable connectors (ends) clean and tight - both the positive cable and the negative cable at both at ends of the cable.... This message was edited by MG on 5-31-19 @ 6:52 PM
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| 40cpe | -- 06-01-2019 @ 7:19 AM |
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I would first rule out the soleniod even though it is relatively new. Put the voltmeter lead on the starter cable post of the solenoid and push the starter button. Read the volt meter with the starter button pushed. If you have no voltage, the solenoid contacts are bad. If you have less than six volts the starter is shorted or stuck. If you have full battery voltage, the starter or cable is open. This message was edited by 40cpe on 6-1-19 @ 7:20 AM
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| TomO | -- 06-01-2019 @ 7:44 AM |
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Does the solenoid pick and the starter turn when you use a jumper wire from the small terminal on the front to ground? If it does, then your starter button is bad or you need to improve the ground at the dash board. If the solenoid does not pick when the center terminal is grounded, the solenoid is bad. If the solenoid picks, but the starter does not turn, connect the two terminals of the solenoid with one lead of a jumper cable (red on both ends or black on both ends). This will probably cause a spark. If the starter turns, the solenoid is bad. If the starter does not turn, press the starter button and the horn butto at the same time. If the horn blows, there is an open circuit in the starter. If the horn does not blow, put the transmission in 3rd gear and push the car backwards. If you cannot move the car, rock it until the fan moves. If you hear a loud clunk, the starter was locked up with the ring gear. Check for the front support bracket on the starter. If it is present, remove the starter and check out the starter drive. If the starter was not locked to the flywheel, remove the starter and have it tested. Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 06-02-2019 @ 12:28 PM |
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HI HOW is the ground wire going to the chassis, TIGHT ? CLEAN, loose connection on the starter cable, is the starter stud loose or stripped, does it turn, if so it might not be a good connection on the inside of starter back off the starter cable nut and make sure it is tight,and clean use a lock star washer if that starter relay is repro,? foreign made try finding a USA made one, NOS or a major brand, if you find that to be the problem hope this helps, 37RAGTOPMAN
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| silverchief | -- 06-03-2019 @ 8:13 AM |
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I really appreciate all your help guys. A "load test" on the battery seemed an obvious thing to take another look at. Rather then pull it again and transport it to a shop, I did more research and learned I could buy my own hand held battery tester to run this test, along with checking the charging system, and everything else concerning a battery. Having four vehicles to maintain I see it as a good investment. You can pay anything from twelve dollars at Harbor Freight to sixty dollars for a professional quality unit. Per the old adage "You get what you pay for." I opted for a good one. The first load test showed "weak," but the instructions (which are a wealth of information" advised being absolutely sure the battery was fully charged, and to then run a second test. After an overnight on the charger the second test showed "good," and the car jumped right off. Results are - it appears not only the battery, but the generator, solenoid, and starter show no defect, and I suspect what is happening is that my several low speed trips a week to the coffee shop (less than one mile away) are not allowing enough time and distance to recover that voltage used in starting the car. After about ten trips you slowly deplete the minimum charge required to crank the engine, and I think the regular use of a charger should eliminate the headache. I also think the hand held battery tester is a wise investment. Thanks again for all the learned suggestions from each of you. I printed them out for future reference.
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| TomO | -- 06-03-2019 @ 8:32 AM |
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Bill, you should get a battery maintainer to keep the battery charged and connect it when ever you finish a trip. Keeping a battery at full charge will extend the life of the battery. I use a Battery Tender on both of my cars. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-022-0196-Volt/dp/B00Y54JI4G/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1C04LM4DGB9JG&keywords=6+volt+battery+tender&qid=1559575828&s=gateway&sprefix=6+voltbattery+tender%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-4 Tom
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| fordv8j | -- 06-03-2019 @ 5:07 PM |
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I put a new sneider battery tender on my 38 conv. had a ford script battery, it didn't shut off, boiled my battery dry, had to replace it, the tender company wouldn't make it good, said if I would send the tender back with $10.00, they would repair it , I said no thanks
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| silverchief | -- 06-04-2019 @ 1:50 PM |
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Thanks guys. Since I invested in this professional grade battery tester, I think I will make it a practice to utilize it every Sat morning to see exactly what is going on with my battery. Hopefully it will show right at 6 volts. If it starts to show down around 4 volts, I have a little old but like new Schumacher 6 volt charger that will gently bring it up to where it should be. I'll keep you advised.
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| therunwaybehind | -- 06-05-2019 @ 9:15 AM |
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Let's be clear. A "6volt" battery of 3 cells in lead acid should have 6.6 volts (3 x 2.2 volts/cell). The regulator has to supply over that value for the battery to be charged by the generator to it's full charge. I would look at the rear bushing in the generator to see if it is worn and causing the brushes to wear prematurely. Sorry to contradict "common sense" and old school.
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