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jakes
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-- 04-30-2019 @ 4:46 AM
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I am installing a radio in my 37 ford club cabriolet and would appreciate it if someone could provide information on how to wire it. The radio control wires from the replacement radio have been cut and the toggle switch (in glove box) is missing. I also have a Philco 816 box which does have one black wire. I could not find any wiring diagrams on the web, and am not quite sure about where the power goes to. Thanks for any information that you can provide.
Jakes
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1937sedandelivery
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-- 04-30-2019 @ 6:43 PM
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Jakes,
I have a 37 Fordor Deluxe with a stock Philco Model F-1440 radio. It is out of the car now, waiting for me to get off my duff and figure it out and at least power it up to see if it works. I have a schematic for just the radio itself, but nothing on how it wires into the car. When I took it out, all the wires were intact, so I should be able to back track and figure out where the wiring goes to/comes from. I doubt it will work, so am planning on sending it to one of the radio fix-it folks mentioned on this website. If I can be of help, let me know, we can figure this out together. It will motivate me to get going on this project.
I assume you have the radio control head, speaker, etc.
Gregg
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TonyM
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-- 04-30-2019 @ 7:05 PM
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Ford Motor Company printed a radio install book for 1937 Ford.
The reproduction is available from Mac's and other on line vendors.
https://www.amazon.com/Radio-Installation-Reprint-Owners-Manual/dp/B00435FF4E
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78-730B
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jakes
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-- 05-01-2019 @ 4:39 AM
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Gregg, thanks for your reply, and yes it's frustrating that information on this radio wiring is not to be found on the web. I do have all the components (except the toggle switch). The box that I have (Philco 816) does have the built in speaker since I have an open car. This box came with this project car and was not installed. It is very possible that this box has been rebuilt as it looks very clean inside/out and looks like new tubes were installed. Because yours is not installed, is there a possibility of providing photos of the control with wiring attached? Hope they do not find too much wrong with your radio.
Thanks again,
Jakes
Have attached photos of my radio box and my car, which took a 1st. place trophy at the 2019 Detroit Autorama.
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1937sedandelivery
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-- 05-01-2019 @ 12:50 PM
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Am working on the pics...
here is what I have so far...
This message was edited by 1937sedandelivery on 5-1-19 @ 1:49 PM
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1937sedandelivery
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-- 05-01-2019 @ 1:51 PM
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and a few more pics...
Let me know if you need more pics, e.g. the toggle switch in the glove box.
gregg
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TonyM
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-- 05-01-2019 @ 6:17 PM
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1937 Ford Glove Box Radio Toggle Switch.
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78-730B
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1937sedandelivery
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-- 05-01-2019 @ 7:17 PM
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I traced out the "hot" wire to the radio.
It starts at the fuse block (after the fuse).
From the fuse block to the toggle switch.
From the toggle switch to the radio head on/off switch.
From the on/off switch to an inline fuse holder (I was surprised, but it looks stock)
The other end of the fuse holder is connected to the radio's hot wire.
It appears to me that the fuse holder requires a special insulated fuse. I will probably replace it with a new modern one.
gregg
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fenbach
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-- 05-01-2019 @ 10:06 PM
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a heads-up for Gregg. if you have the original 3-wire speaker harness with the 3-prong plug attached, just plug it in. otherwise BE CAREFUL. the voltage to one of the sockets is roughly 200DC. which will get your attention! set the radio on its side so that the 3-hole jack is towards the bottom. as best I recall, the socket on the right [closest to the tone knob] is the high voltage. the one at the left is audio [low voltage AC]. the one off by itself at the bottom is 6 volts DC for the speaker magnet. not used with a modern speaker. ground is the cable shield. check the DC voltages with a meter to be sure. my recollection could have shorted out.
and jakes, looks to me like the cover of your radio is off by 180 degrees. the 2 brass spring clips mounted to the cover should rest on the metal plate that spans the radio.
if the radios don't perform well, the capacitors and the vibrator probably need replacing. something i'd be glad to do. shipping back and forth would run nearly $100, tho.
bob
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jakes
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-- 05-02-2019 @ 4:33 AM
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Gregg, thanks for all of your photos. The wiring on the back of the control of mine is a little different. Mine has the lamp wire soldered to one of the blue wires to the contacts. I guess either way will work. Being that my car is a convertible with the speaker built in, the boxes would be different. It won't be until next week that I'll have the time to wire it, but according to your description of the wiring , I should not have any problems. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thank you very much, you have been a big help.
Jakes
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1937sedandelivery
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-- 05-02-2019 @ 8:35 AM
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200V? What the heck! I will give it its due respect.
Thank you very much for letting me know.
My speaker is totally shot, what to do?
gregg
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fenbach
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-- 05-02-2019 @ 8:20 PM
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A modern speaker will work fine. 8 ohms is best. Just connect one lead to the audio socket and the other to ground. I found that I could reduce the background hum by running the ground wire all the way back to the radio rather than connecting it to the body. Or use the original shielded harness if you have it. You can send me a PM if you have questions along the way. I learned to fix these old Ford radios about 10 years ago and enjoy working on them. Even long distance.
Bob
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1937sedandelivery
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-- 05-02-2019 @ 9:29 PM
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Hey Bob,
Oh, that is good news. Thought I would have to have some funky new speaker made. Will PM you as things progress.
Thanks for the info.
gregg
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jakes
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-- 05-10-2019 @ 4:47 AM
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Gregg, I wired the radio as to how yours was wired, and installed a new toggle switch. Blows fuses right away. The toggle switch that I bought is a 12v switch but I don't believe that would matter, or does it? Oh well, maybe I just have to sing while driving. Not a pleasant experience!
Thanks again for your help.
Jakes
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1937sedandelivery
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-- 05-10-2019 @ 8:07 AM
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Well, that is a bummer. Perhaps someone can validate what I described. The 12V rated switch should be fine.
If you didn't already, you could wire up everything except the connection to the radio. Flip the switch and verify that it works and the voltage to the radio connection is correct.
If you have a volt/ohm meter, you could measure the resistance of the radio hot wire. Measure from the hot wire to a good ground point on the case. Good chance there is a low resistance short to ground in the radio.
Another easy way to test the radio resistance is put it on a bench and apply a fused 6V source to the hot wire (also connect wire between voltage source and ground. Since the car is a positive ground system, you would be connecting the minus side of the source to the hot wire and the positive side to the case ground.
Meantime, take a couple "singing" courses and surprise everyone 
gregg
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