| Catimann | -- 04-22-2019 @ 9:19 PM |
|
Hello all I just joined today and am looking for a little help or some ideas. I have a bunch of parts that were put together as a 47 Mercury 1 ton. All very nice but probably not a Merc. Either way it looks like a Merc and is in pretty nice shape. I don't care that the motor is probably a 51, the frame VIN says 47 Ford and the carb is a holly 94 model 91 99. Its a very nice truck and I plan to have a lot of fun with it. What we are all here for. To get it on the road I need to take care of the fuel system. It ran but the gas was as old as my grandfather and the carb looked like it was in the corner of a dusty barn for 50 years. So I have taken the carb apart bathed it in that great smelling cleaner. Sinuses are very clear now! While inspecting it I found the seats for the Idle needles are a bit rusty and could use a refresh. Idle needle is brass and could be nicely cleaned up but the throttle body is cast iron. The tool is a refacer 9541-C with a guide bushing 9451-D, which I doubt I can find just any old place. You can see the picture from the old fuel system book I have. I am looking for a reamer or a hone that could do this. The needle is a 10-32 thread so a reamer/hone with a dia of 5/32" would fit inside the thread and they would act like a bushing of sorts. I have been looking for reamers or hones but it is not an easy thing to find. Even a diamond coated tapered point of the correct angle. About 39 degrees. Any ideas would be welcome.
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 04-23-2019 @ 12:50 AM |
|
Your question is a good one, and one I have never heard till now, so take my answer with a grain of salt: The idle bleed valve being originally able to close completely, there should never be such a need in the actual operation of the carburetor. Therefore, the roughness you describe in the throttle body should not be a concern, due to the ability to adjust the needle valve to compensate for such inconsistency of the body, within reasonable limits. A question for you now: Your truck being a 47 Merc (Canadian?) could certainly be equipped with a 91-99 carb (although perhaps with modified controls), however, the 91-99 is not compatible with a '51 engine unless a different distributor is also used. My question is, what are you using for a distributor? Alan
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 04-23-2019 @ 4:24 AM |
|
Clean the passage to the idle mixture adjustment screws from the top of the base using twist drills usually by hand. blow any dirt out then use wire to clean out the three small holes on each throttle passage (two on the top of the closed throttle plate and one below). Blow out any dirt and make sure all passages are clear. If the rust is too bad get another base and replace it. The passage ways have to be clear of dirt and rust and stay that way for proper operation.
|
|
| Catimann | -- 04-23-2019 @ 12:48 PM |
|
What distributor I have is a good question. it does have a vacuum advance. That leads to other interesting questions like what engine do I really have. Looking it all up online leaves me more confused than I care to be. 24 "bolts" in the heads but with water in/outlets. A C1BA cast into the rear of the block. No bell housing. How about I just show you pictures. If you want to see more just let me know.
|
|
| Catimann | -- 04-23-2019 @ 12:54 PM |
|
Pictures
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 04-23-2019 @ 1:45 PM |
|
Yes, it looks like you have a '51 Merc engine, with a Loadamatic distributor that is not compatible with a 91-99 carburetor. You'll have to change one or the other, or both. Alan
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 04-23-2019 @ 4:40 PM |
|
Your distributor needs ported vacuum. It is connected to manifold vacuum. The best way to explain the difference in vacuum is they react opposite from each other. Manifold vacuum is high at idle and gets lower as you accelerate. Ported vacuum is low at idle and increases with engine RPM. You do need a carburetor with ported vacuum outlet. Suggest you contact Charlie Schwendler and ask his thoughts. Tell him you now have a 91-99, he may work out a partial trade, if your carb. is in very good condition. The C in all the numbers is an indication of a Canadian engine. I believe the intake manifold is improper for your engine since it is from 1941 and that engine distributor uses manifold vacuum so the vacuum line from the manifold to the distributor should be blocked off and not used on your engine. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 4-23-19 @ 4:46 PM
|
|
| Catimann | -- 04-23-2019 @ 10:45 PM |
|
Thanks for all that. I looked up one web site that explained the loadamatic, http://m571.com/yblock/loadomatic.htm It has this quote "All you have to do is exchange the Load O Matic for a conventional distributor to see a marked performance difference." Now I don't need or want a hot rod but do want to take the truck camping and pull a small trailer. For that reason a better distributor and carb would be in order. I also live in BC so mountains are part of the terrain so a little extra power would be helpful. I would like to know how much difference a dual carb set up would make over the stock unit. This message was edited by Catimann on 4-23-19 @ 10:48 PM
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 04-25-2019 @ 4:58 AM |
|
See the V8 Times classified for contact info. Charlie Schwindler has a Chevy distributor for the engine as well as rebuilt carbs.
|
|
| TomO | -- 04-25-2019 @ 7:25 AM |
|
The Loadamatic distributor gets it bad reputation from people that do not understand it and want to modify the spring tension without using a distributor machine or use direct vacuum to the vacuum advance. It works very well and delivers good power with decent gas mileage when set up properly. The correct carburetor delivers enough fuel and air to the engine for it to produce the rated horsepower. Most dual carburetor setups deliver too much fuel or too much air for good performance. My advice is to stay as close to stock as possible, so that when problems arise you don't have to wonder about the engineering principals behind the changes that you made. Stock parts are also easier to find and repair. Tom
|
|
| Catimann | -- 04-26-2019 @ 11:03 AM |
|
I will stick with stock and contacted Charlie as per 40 Coupes advice. This old truck is supposed to be a bit of a time travel machine. The plan is to build a period style camper (I have old colman lamps and cooker and am looking for a type of heater from back then) for the back and send it to Australia to do a tour. Then across Canada and maybe Europe. The 91 99 carb seems super simple and looks in good shape.
|
|
| TomO | -- 04-27-2019 @ 7:01 AM |
|
Your truck looks very nice and your plans for it are ambitious. I hope that you get to enjoy them. Start stocking up common repair parts as they may be difficult to obtain on your tour. You should also contact the 4 Australia groups and make some E-Mail pals so that when you get there you will have some contacts if you have problems. Tom
|
|
| 42merc | -- 04-27-2019 @ 1:54 PM |
|
The easy fix would be to source an 8BA carb. They are plentiful and inexpensive, would solve both poblems.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=12844 |