| sarahcecelia | -- 03-12-2019 @ 1:45 PM |
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Took my '50 out for a ride around the block after sitting for 9 months. 3 times the motor died just like the key was turned off? First time I got out, with key on, took a wire off at a plug, cranked it with remote button on solenoid, and got hot blue spark; got in and started it. Continued around the block 2 or 3 times and it quit again twice, and I restarted it. Mind you, I had it running the day before, for about 1/2 hour OR MORE ( to temp) with radiator cleaner in it, and it never quit! The next day BINGO!! Problem!!I've had this car about 3 years, drove it to many shows, and never a problem. I did complete ignition tuneup over the winter w/ all new parts!Plugs, cap, rotor, points, condenser, Ign. wires, and all to specs!! Regards, Steve Lee
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| MG | -- 03-12-2019 @ 2:04 PM |
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You probably scr*w*d something up when you did a "complete ignition tuneup over the winter". Retrace what you did....
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| carcrazy | -- 03-12-2019 @ 4:35 PM |
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It is probably a loose connection somewhere in the ignition primary circuit. Check the connections to the coil, the points, and the ground wire inside the distributor.
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-12-2019 @ 6:08 PM |
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Steve, Cars are sometimes like kids who react negatively to corrective actions. Poor results can make a guy take a step back to reconsider his methods. Alan
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| sarahcecelia | -- 03-12-2019 @ 8:29 PM |
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Nothing scr*w*d up on my tuneup.I did my first at 18 years old in 1955 on my 1950 Ford Deluxe Tudor sedan as a novice in my parents' backyard. I worked for dealerships in the 60's and 70's and did many, many tuneups, and never had one "Comeback."Yes, I can make mistakes," (nobody is infalible) but I am very patient and methodical when I work on my classic cars.I use a Snap on dwell/tach meter and timing light that I bought in 1963. Point gap and dwell are spot on, timing spot on, plugs gaped at .030, compression 115-120, and car runs strong, but just dies. Fuel, condenser, loose ignition wire? Installed a new Echlin condenser from NAPA today; sometimes a bad one will quit when hot. Gonna run her again and see what happens. Regards, Steve Lee
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| sarahcecelia | -- 03-12-2019 @ 8:34 PM |
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Checked all that today when I took the new condenser out an got an Echlin at NAPA and installed it. That one I removed might have been from China!! We'll see what happens now! Regards, Steve Lee
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| JT Ford | -- 03-13-2019 @ 7:27 AM |
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Be sure the black, insulated wire under the dist. plate is not bare someplace. It can short out and the car will stop!
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| trjford8 | -- 03-13-2019 @ 7:34 AM |
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JTFord may have the answer. Also did you check the fuel supply to the carb?
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| MGG | -- 03-13-2019 @ 3:55 PM |
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It sounds like what happened to me. I had some junk in the fuel line which plugged the screen in the fuel pump, starving the carburetor. I cleaned the line and the tank and all is well.
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| RAK402 | -- 03-13-2019 @ 3:59 PM |
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I had a repro ignition resistor go intermittent on my about 10 years ago. The car would just quit (as though the ignition had been turned off). It would start and run-sometimes. It took me a while to find it, but once I replace the repro ignition resistor with a good one, the problem never returned. This message was edited by RAK402 on 3-13-19 @ 3:59 PM
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| sarahcecelia | -- 03-16-2019 @ 3:53 AM |
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Problem solved!! It was a fuel problem!! Took the top off the carburetor when it quit and I coasted into my garage, and it had no gas in it!! Removed that dang Carter electric fuel pump!! It was causing a fuel flow problem. Randy Rundle said They are only good for "vapor lock", and inline they won't do any good if the mechanical fails, because they can't push fuel past the poppet valves in the mechanical! I'm going to put that block from Shewman under the carb to prevent any vapor lock! Regards, Steve Lee
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| TomO | -- 03-16-2019 @ 7:43 AM |
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That's right, one "improvement" failed so now you are going to add another one to fatten Randy's wallet. If your supply to the fuel pump is clean and does not leak vacuum, your fuel pump passes the fuel delivery test and your carburetor is correctly rebuilt, you will not need the the spacer. The spacer will probably have no effect except maybe introduce another vacuum leak or decrease mileage. Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-16-2019 @ 12:39 PM |
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I think the block under the carburetor will help from this " new gas " from boiling when car is shut off,when hot if you put the car in the garage and smell gas you know this is the issue, only my 2 cents, 1937 RAGTOPMAN I found out that FORD's when warm only need to turn on key and hit the starter, and it starts right up once you use the gas pedal, it seems to flood the engine, at least my 37 85 hp also rebuild the fuel pump, with good parts, you do not need a electric fuel pump I have never had a need for another part to give more problems, Just remember back in the day they never had to do this , not unless the push rod eccentric on back of camshaft is bad, and pump did not have the travel to make the pump have a full stoke to work correctly., I found out that OLD PARTS CELLAR in MASS, have modern correct fuel pump, carb kits and much more, they advertise in HEMMING'S
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| fordv8j | -- 03-16-2019 @ 2:43 PM |
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I put a new napa condencer on our 38, drove 20 miles to a show, it quit before I got parked, put a used one on, it ran
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-17-2019 @ 12:23 PM |
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HI NAPA, wow, I use NOS, or USA made only good makers parts, not really a fan of the foreign made parts, had my own issues,I would stay away learned my lesson, a lot of sellers on E-BAY sell NOS AMERICAN MADE PARTS, I think you can also buy the FORD parts from you local FORD DEALER if you have the original parts number's give it s try , glad you fixed the problem. my 2 cents 37RAGTOPMAN
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