| gfstew | -- 02-17-2019 @ 7:33 PM |
|
I have a 1948 Ford engine in my 36 Ford Sedan and been having a heating problem. Put in a Fan that runs 2300 cfm and just installed Skip Haney Pressurize Relief Value The Value so far helped by not dumping coolint on the ground also put a fan relay on it it seems better but not to my excitment ?? Now 2 people have told me this that had the same problem I have Number 1 the Timing is off and causing the heat problem and Number 2 the Vacuum Advance is off going to the distributor and yes I do have Vacuum wipers. HAS anyone out there ever heard of anything like that THANKS
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 02-17-2019 @ 9:27 PM |
|
You will get advice from some that could conceivably be helpful, but off the wall advice like that without a proper diagnosis can lead to repairs that aren't required. A quick check on timing can be made by examining the color of your spark plugs. ...And you don't have a vacuum advance, you have a vacuum brake, which with the fuels available today should be set at a minimum drag, only required to prevent the advance disc from wild bouncing. You might check the condition of your radiator. Use an infrared temp gauge to determine if you have blocked tubes, and if so, take it in for a clean-out. Your block can be backflushed while your radiator gets cleaned also. Just general maintenance there, money well spent. Alan
|
|
| TomO | -- 02-18-2019 @ 8:06 AM |
|
Alan gave you good advice. In this post https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=12597&keywords= You said that your car runs at 180 degrees with 180 degree thermostats and that the coolant comes out after standing. You never did answer the questions asked by trjford8. If you overfill the radiator, some coolant is going to come out the overflow. Incorrect timing can cause overheating while driving. Timing on the dual point distributor is determined by camshaft position and point opening. I doubt that timing is your problem, because you say it runs at the temperature set by the thermostats and if the timing were off, it would show up while driving. Tom
|
|
| supereal | -- 02-18-2019 @ 12:50 PM |
|
If the heating occurs mostly when at speed, the cause is usually due to restricted air flow thru the radiator. If it happens at idle, or low speed, the problem is likely poor coolant circulation. Both are common with partially clogged radiators, or a radiator with poor contact between the fins and the tubes due to vibration loosening the bond, or an interior lime coating which can affect efficiency by as much as half. Years ago, the "fix" was the nearest radiator shop. Now that they have mostly disappeared, your best bet is replacement. It isn't a good idea to fuss with the timing or other adjustment until you actually locate the cause, or you can produce more trouble. I have seen heating caused by dragging brakes or even a loose impeller in a water pump at fault, but are uncommon. New radiators are pricey, but almost always return your vehicle to dependable and enjoyable condition.
|
|
| gfstew | -- 02-18-2019 @ 1:18 PM |
|
Ok Both have 180 degree thermasats and I now have a relay on it that when it gets to 180 degrees it kicks on. the radiator looks real clean inside. I do not have a shoud on it but when the fan kicks in you can place an towel in front of the grill and the towel will stick to the grill so I believe the fan is blowing real good.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-18-2019 @ 3:10 PM |
|
hi gfstew is this a rebuilt engine? , or one with miles on it, if rebuilt it might have to be broke in, I use a house fan in front of the car if the engine is new and let it run and watch the temp, if it get hot I turn it off and let it cool and then start it up again, this is my break in,before I run it on the road, I usually run on the road when the sun does down and it is a little cooler, my question is, did you fill the radiator when engine warm, allowing the water to expand, it will pour out the coolant if filled TOO Full, you say it is overheating, having 180 degree thermostats it will run that temp what kind of gauge are you using to measure the temp ? The one in the dash gauge,? maybe it is not accurate ? I would remove the thermostats, and check to see if they are opening, if do not open will block and cause overheating by placing them in a pot on your stove and use a temp cooking gauge to see when they open, I have used new thermostats and found sometimes they are no good, esp this CHINA parts they sell, looks like this is only you can get in todays store and aftemarket parts stores, for example, I put a new condenser from a new after market parts supplier,in my 57 chev, and in only a few miles it went bad, so I used a original nos U.S.A. part and have no problems since, you have to go though a step by step process to find out EXACTLY what is the problem is this a car you just bought,? if not did it overheat in the past and what did you do to make it run hot ? give us more information so we can figure this out, the more info the easier it might be to find out the problem I would take out the thermostats, FIRST and try to see if engine runs cooler, hope this helps, 1937RAGTOPMAN
|
|
| GK1918 | -- 02-20-2019 @ 6:19 AM |
|
But you have not said what the temp. is.. Not being wise guyl have you driven a Model T lately, no not overheating thats how they been running for a 100yrs....My car has no thermostats just cardboard and it barely gets to 160 or so in the winter and runs 180 + or - in the summer. Far as timing I bumped distrubutor 2 lines advanced works for me got more power that a jet plane on a ; engine 59A. The vacuum Gage is your friend run engine adjust carb and fiddle with advance or retard until you get the highest vacuum reading. Forget the windshield wipers. Maybe you have the dist. vac. brake too tight only needs a little bit, so back that off try it and I doubt it will ping with todays junk gas....
|
|
| gfstew | -- 02-20-2019 @ 1:59 PM |
|
Thanks for the information I have been told to take the thermostats out or put in 160 the engine was in the car when I bought it it came from California and the owner told me after I bought it OH IT NEVER OVER HEATED well it does .the Temp gage is a new one and some times it gets up to 200 to 210 degrees. When you said about junk gas I was told to use Union 67 so what do you use and what octane rating
|
|
| TomO | -- 02-21-2019 @ 7:38 AM |
|
In order to provide good advice, we need to know when the engine is overheating. Does it overheat when you are driving 35 MPH or when you are driving 50 MPH or when you are driving 20 MPH? Does it only get hot when you drive in traffic? Does it only get hot when idling for long periods? Does it only get hot when you shut it off? 200 degrees is not considered overheating. A new temperature gauge can give incorrect readings. Thermostats only set the low temperature for coolant to start flowing in the system. If your engine is going to run at 200 degrees, it doesn't matter whether you have no thermostats or 180 thermostats, it will still run at 200 degrees. The best way to check the coolant temperature is with a candy thermometer dipped directly into the coolant. You have pressurized your system with Skip's valve, so I would not recommend that. The next best way would be with an infrared thermometer aimed at the hose just as it exits the head. Be aware that the inexpensive infrared thermometers will read incorrectly when they are further away from the heat source. About 4" is the best place for the inexpensive ones. The Fluke and other's can read accurately further away from the heat source. Do this on both heads. You can use the infrared thermometer to check on the radiator efficiency by collecting the temperature of the coolant at the top hose as it enters the radiator and at the bottom hose as it exits the radiator. Do this on all 4 hoses. Tom
|
|
| gfstew | -- 02-23-2019 @ 7:30 PM |
|
i can drive the car at 50 mph and also in traffic and it gets hot before I put Skip<s value on it the would dump coolant on the ground it only does a few drops before like I said I would have a lot on the ground and steam. I can drive the car like today it was 49 degrees out and it got hot and it can be90 degrees out and it can get over 200 degrees the Radiator has been cleaned out. the new gauge seems to run cooler not like the old gauge gauge was ,
|
|
| TomO | -- 02-24-2019 @ 8:25 AM |
|
My understanding of your problem is that the engine overheats under all conditions. Try these suggestions first. If the engine passes these tests come back with the results and we can give you a couple of other tests to help isolate the problem. Did you buy the correct 1939-1947 Ford thermostats? The 1949 and later thermostats will travel up the hoses and turn sideways, causing problems. A leaking head gasket can cause the coolant to foam and then burp. A good check is to drain enough coolant to allow the upper hoses to be removed from the heads. replace enough coolant to fill the heads to where you can observe the coolant. Remove the generator and water pump belt , then start the engine. Look for bubbles in the coolant while the engine is running. Bubbles would indicate a leaking head gasket. If you have the correct thermostats and no bubbles, fill the cooling system with the coolant and drive the car until the temperature is 160. Shut off the engine and remove the radiator cap and look at the coolant. If it has turned to foam, you probably would benefit from having your water pumps rebuilt by Skip Haney. Tom
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=12688 |