| sundog126 | -- 02-06-2019 @ 2:46 PM |
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I have a flathead v8 with a small crack between the head stud and the coolant cir hole on the block, some how the coolant is getting in the cyl. ,has anyone used J-B weld to repair a crack in that location, the cylinders are borded out 40 over and I also have alum heads so the big bore head gaskets don't cover that much.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 02-06-2019 @ 4:04 PM |
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first thought--why do you use a big bore gasket set? is it copper or composite?
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| sundog126 | -- 02-06-2019 @ 6:16 PM |
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I was instructed to use the big bore copper gasket for my bore and alum heads
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| carcrazy | -- 02-06-2019 @ 7:55 PM |
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While it may not be the preferred way to repair a cracked block, the use of Bar's Stop Leak will most probably stop the leak and seal the cooling system. I have used this product in the past to seal an external leak on the side of a Flathead block with great results.
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| TomO | -- 02-07-2019 @ 7:33 AM |
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.04 and .060 are standard oversize bore on the 221 cu. in engine and the 239 cu.in also used those size overbore from 1939-1948. Those are also the standard over bore for the 8BA blocks, so a standard head gasket should work fine for your engine. I would recommend the composite gasket and that you run anti-freeze all year to reduce the chances of corrosion in your heads. I doubt that JB Weld will do much good in sealing the crack. The cast iron area cannot be cleaned enough and the crack is probably too thin to support a good bonding for the epoxy. Any oil residue in the cast iron will cause the epoxy to fail to adhere. Cracks from a stud to the coolant holes are pretty common in the flathead engines. They usually do not cause any problem as the head gasket keeps the coolant from entering the combustion chamber. Before I install a head, I like to use a thread chaser (NOT a threading die)to clean the stud threads, then I clean the debris with a a light oil followed by wiping the threads to remove all excess oil. When you torque your head bolts with a new gasket, do it in stages and stop applying pressure as soon as you hear the click. The first stage I use is 20 Ft. Lbs, the next stage is half of the remaining torque (45-20=25/2 =12 +20=32Ft Lb.) then I do another half of the remaining torque and finally toque to the final reading. Run the engine to operating temperature, let it cool down and then retorque the heads. Tom
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| sundog126 | -- 02-08-2019 @ 12:45 PM |
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thanks for the info
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