| pauls36fordor | -- 01-17-2019 @ 9:24 AM |
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Have any of you experienced this? I took my 36 out of the garage on Sunday. The first time since show season ended in October. I wanted to drive around the neighborhood to charge the battery and keep the tires round. It was 40 degrees outside and she had been sitting for 3 months. As I drove around I could not get any power. I had difficulty making it up slight rises in the road or getting it over 20 mph. I've never had this problem before. Could it be it was just cold and never really warmed up? I didn't have it out long because of the no power problem.
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| MG | -- 01-17-2019 @ 10:20 AM |
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I suspect your carburetor is clogged up....
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| Drbrown | -- 01-19-2019 @ 7:29 PM |
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If your engine is warming up to anywhere near operating temp then the outside air temp should not be a problem. Be sure your air clean is in good condition. Check to be sure your choke control cable and flapper in the carb are working correctly. Otherwise, I agree with MG .... the engine may not be getting a proper amount of gas and/or the air/fuel mix is off ..... could be carb or fuel pump. If you have a gas filter it may be partially clogged.
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| pauls36fordor | -- 01-21-2019 @ 1:01 PM |
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Thanks to you both. Good tips and I will go from here.
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| 1934 Ford | -- 01-24-2019 @ 9:38 AM |
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Our 34 ford V8 loves cool weather, so does our 35 Pickup. In fact all our Ford V8's since 1072 have felt extra peppy on cold weather. We even led a short 32 mile New Years Day tour here in the Smoky Mountains to celebrate all our cars birthdays. They're all a year old now.. I think they thrive on cool air. 1934 Ford's since 1972
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| supereal | -- 02-05-2019 @ 12:16 PM |
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An old Ford that runs, but has no power likely has a weak or open ignition condenser. The purpose of this part is two fold: to protect the contact points from arcing, and to allow the full charging and draining the coil for the next cycle. We are finding that many of the replacement condensers being sold are faulty. They can have internal problems, or the wire lead is poorly secured to the the unit. We check them by putting an analog ohmmeter across the condenser set on the highest scale. The needle should up, then fall back. If it doesn't, the condenser is open. If the needle stays up, the condenser is shorted. Since today's ignition system don't contain points and condenser, the parts are made off shore, and display poor quality. We often reuse a condenser for tuneups as they usually are better than the replacements.
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