| gfstew | -- 01-05-2019 @ 4:35 PM |
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I have a 1936 Ford 2 door sedan . i installed a 2700 cfm fan on it a week ago so now when I drive it the temperature gauge runs at 180 degrees . This last time when I turned the car off the temperature shot up to over 200 and started dumping coolant on the ground I believe it is a stock radiator it has a front vent tube in front of the radiator where the coolant was coming out does anyone have any answers. This is getting to be a problem and I can not correct it
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| carcrazy | -- 01-05-2019 @ 5:30 PM |
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Is the cooling fan that you installed an electrically powered one? If so, do you have room to install it behind the radiator to make it a "puller" to improve efficiency ? Did the car previously have overheating issues before the installation of this fan? Has the radiator been boiled out recently? If you have exhausted all other means to make it run acceptably cool, there are other things that can be done to make it run cooler. You can seal any gaps between the radiator and the body so that you force all of the air that comes through the grille to go though the radiator. A shroud can be made or purchased to surround the fan to minimize hot air that would be recirculated. Does the engine have 160 degree F thermostats installed. After you shut a hot engine off, heat will continue to build in the cooling system for 10 minutes or so during a "hot soak period". This is a normal condition which can be minimized by allowing the cooling fan to run for a few minutes after you shut off the engine. To enable this, you will want to route the power for the cooling through an electrical thermostat that has battery power when the ignition switch is in the off position. Please let us know of your progress in solving this cooling issue.
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| trjford8 | -- 01-06-2019 @ 7:38 AM |
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Coolant expands. Are you filling the radiator right to the top? If so you are getting it too full and there is no room for expansion and it goes out the overflow..
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| trjford8 | -- 01-06-2019 @ 7:39 AM |
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Coolant expands. Are you filling the radiator right to the top? If so you are getting it too full and there is no room for expansion and it goes out the overflow..
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| TomO | -- 01-06-2019 @ 10:15 AM |
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Can you post some photos of the engine and the fan? A photo can help us understand how you cooling system is configured so we can help you better. Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 01-06-2019 @ 10:36 AM |
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hi how long does it take to get hot, at idle or driving . Is it really hot of just hot water overflowing,? if it overflows , is it steam or just hot water,? check temp of coolant with a thermometer 'take a reading, see what it is, always fill the radiator when running warm,? not cold. water expands, first question, I assume the fan belt is adjusted, and is the correct one, not to skinny, and maybe slipping if you can turn the fan by hand with out turning the engine over belt might be too loose, how are the water pump impellers , rusted away ? are they turning , I know it is a stupid question,but maybe slipping on shaft,? maybe new water pumps. I have a 37 that ran on the hot side, installed the correct size fan belt, fit in the water pump pulleys on the edges not on the bottom of groove, I installed 2 REWORKED water pumps, from SKIP,with special impellers I also installed SKIP's overflow valve, to pressurized the coolant system, like a modern car, you have to seal your radiator cap so it does not let the pressure out. this for the most part solved the problem, stay out of PARADES , I think a ELECTRIC FAN is like a band aid, might help but does not solve the real problem,they did not use these years ago. also check if you head gaskets are leaking, any bubbles in the coolant system at idle or running,,? a coolant system pressure checker, will tell you if the coolant pressure rises within a few minutes, I use straight distilled water with water wetter in the coolant,and water pump lube ,but not antifreeze I hope this helps ,,GOOD LUCK....!!! regards 1937 RAGTOPMAN
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| supereal | -- 01-06-2019 @ 1:35 PM |
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If the temperature rises rapidly after you start the car, it is very likely that the radiator is not doing its job. This is usually due to an internal coating of the radiator tubes with deposits such as lime from the water. The only true repair is by replacing the radiator itself. Radiator shops have mostly disappeared, and even when they were common, boiling and rodding didn't improve efficiency. Electric fans are a stopgap. They are expensive and draw high current incompatible with old car systems. When I bought my '47, it would boil before you could get around the block. A new radiator now allows adequate cooling on very hot days, and in heavy traffic. I know new radiators are very costly, but overheating certainly interferes with enjoying a reliable vehicle.
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| gfstew | -- 01-06-2019 @ 3:00 PM |
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Thanks for all your comments they help a lot. the Radiator is clean and has no junk in it. I bought the car this year in July. I drove it home and it got hot and stopped running the day I bought it First I replaced the Thermostats and put in New 180 Degrees Thermostats Flushed the Radiator out put new coolant in it .I took it down to a Radiator shop that has been here for years .He suggested to install a fan . Now yesterday when I was driving it with the Fan ON it was 180 degrees the Temperature outside was 55 degrees. So I turned the fan off .and the Temperature gauge read 180 degrees when I stopped and parked the car it was 190 and the fan was off.. with in 2 minutes it was over 200 degrees and started dumping coolant . i now believe if I kept the electric fan running it may have no dumped coolant on the Ground ?? It has a Stock no presure Radiator cap on it. do I replace it with a more newer 7 lb or 16 lb cap with a recovery tank .
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| gfstew | -- 01-06-2019 @ 3:05 PM |
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1937 RAGTOPMAN you said you did some switching over water pumps and a overflow value from SKIP'S who is SKIP'S ??
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 01-07-2019 @ 8:25 AM |
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his name is SKIP HANEY is in the V8 TIMES. been there for years, you would benefit by joining this great club, has a fantastic magazine , and V8 FORD club events all year long give him a call and he can explain what to do, his address is Skip Haney 29436 Taralane DR Porta Gorda FL 33982 PHONE 941 637 6698 E-MAIL skip@fordsrus.com NOTE 1939 DELUXE and later v8 had bigger cooling system, so overheating was a lot less I do not run thermostats. and plain distilled water, This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 1-7-19 @ 8:27 AM
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| gfstew | -- 01-07-2019 @ 5:48 PM |
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Thanks 37 RAGTOPMAN for Skip Haney information on my 36 fore way do you not have Thermostats in the engine and I have coolent in mine why the plain distilled water ??
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| TomO | -- 01-08-2019 @ 6:48 AM |
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If your coolant is at 180 degrees while running, I don't think that Skip's pumps will help your problem. Does your car have a 1936 engine? Is the distributor and coil the original type? A couple of photos of the engine compartment showing the engine and distributor would help. The gushing can be caused by many things and the trouble shooting process should be tailored to your configuration. The fan only comes into play when you are traveling at low speeds or idling the engine. Tom
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| gfstew | -- 01-08-2019 @ 5:27 PM |
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it is I was told a 1948 ford engine 100 horse power. it has a 12 volt system .
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| TomO | -- 01-09-2019 @ 7:48 AM |
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Did you buy the correct 1939-1947 Ford thermostats? The 1949 and later thermostats will travel up the hoses and turn sideways, causing problems. A leaking head gasket can cause the coolant to foam and then burp. A good check is to drain enough coolant to allow the upper hoses to be removed from the heads. replace enough coolant to fill the heads to where you can observe the coolant. Remove the generator and water pump belt , then start the engine. Look for bubbles in the coolant while the engine is running. Bubbles would indicate a leaking head gasket. If you have the correct thermostats and no bubbles, fill the cooling system with the coolant and drive the car until the temperature is 160. Shut off the engine and remove the radiator cap and look at the coolant. If it has turned to foam, you probably would benefit from having your water pumps rebuilt by Skip Haney. Again a couple of phots would help us see if there are other concerns. Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 01-09-2019 @ 10:49 AM |
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I use distilled plain water,with water pump lube, to keep the rust down distilled water does not have any chemicals antifreeze if overheats can be a mess.
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| JayChicago | -- 01-10-2019 @ 5:08 AM |
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gfstew I would suggest you hesitate before you go thru a lot of work or expense, because from what I have read in your posts I don't necessarily see a problem here, other than perhaps an over-filled radiator. You have 180 degree thermostats and the car runs at 180 degrees. When you turned-off your electric fan it was up to 190 degrees when you parked. I would think that is normal for driving at slow speeds. Then with engine stopped it went up over 200 degrees. That too seems normal. With circulation stopped, the coolant will get hot for a period of time as it absorbs heat from the engine block. It then pushed out some water. That would be expected if the radiator was over-filled. The top part of your radiator above the coils is your expansion tank. The radiator should be filled only up to a couple inches below the top, leaving room for expansion of the coolant when it is hot.
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| carcrazy | -- 01-10-2019 @ 9:40 AM |
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One way to check the cooling efficiency of the radiator is to measure the temperatures at the top and bottom of it with an infrared thermometer. With a properly functioning radiator the temperature at the bottom will be 15 degrees F cooler than the temperature at the top.
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