| JDBenner | -- 12-15-2018 @ 8:40 AM |
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I had my distributor and coil checked and set up about a year ago and my car ran great until a couple of months ago when I found I wasn't getting any voltage to the coil. The resistor seems to be the problem but I have put in two new resistors from two different vendors although they were both from Taiwan and looked the same. If I take the resistor out of the circuit I get voltage to the coil But I have been reluctant to try to start the car for fear of frying the points. Could I have gotten two bad resistors? they check okay for continuity and show about .6 ohms across them.The description says they are 40 ohm resistors which sounds high to me. I'm about out of ideas. Any thoughts? Thanks for any and all ideas.
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| TomO | -- 12-16-2018 @ 8:03 AM |
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0.6ohms is about right for the ignition resister. I would check the voltage with the points open. You can connect your ohm meter between the condenser contact and ground to check for open points, with the ignition switch off. Then connect the volt meter to the input of the coil. It should read close to battery voltage, with the ignition switch on. If you do not have the correct voltage, you can move the meter lead to the coil side of the resister and read the voltage again. If it is still incorrect, move the lead to the ignition switch coil terminal. If the voltage is correct, tap the starter to close the points, with the ignition switch off. Turn the switch on just long enough to read the voltage at the coil. It should be above 2.5 volts. If it is not, move the lead to isolate the problem. If you have a round coil with an adapter, you may not need the resister. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 12-16-18 @ 8:18 AM
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| JDBenner | -- 12-16-2018 @ 11:53 AM |
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Thanks, Tom. I'll try your suggestions as soon as I can. I do have a round coil but how do I know if I have an adapter?
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| MG | -- 12-16-2018 @ 11:59 AM |
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I think Tom meant to say a 'CAN' (as in soup can) type coil....One that does not sit on top of the distributor....The adapter sits on top of the distributor.... See adapter at this link > https://www.ebay.com/itm/1933-1934-1935-1936-FORD-CAR-TRUCK-COIL-ADAPTER-KIT-18-12036-S-/272203996232 This message was edited by MG on 12-16-18 @ 12:07 PM
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| TomO | -- 12-17-2018 @ 7:01 AM |
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Thanks MG, for clarifying my post. Tom
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| JDBenner | -- 12-17-2018 @ 8:43 AM |
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I have the coil on top of the distributor. I started running Tom's tests and did find I had 6.2 volts at the distributor. The points must have been in the wrong position when I tried it before. However, I'm only getting 1.6 volts where you say it should be over 2.5. I did get the car to start but it runs rough. The leads on my voltmeter are kind of short so I'll try to check further later. Thanks for your help. If you have anymore suggestions let me know. This message was edited by JDBenner on 12-17-18 @ 8:47 AM
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| trjford8 | -- 12-18-2018 @ 7:32 AM |
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You could have an issue with the ignition switch on the column. Take it apart and check and clean all the contacts inside.
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| trjford8 | -- 12-18-2018 @ 7:32 AM |
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You could have an issue with the ignition switch on the column. Take it apart and check and clean all the contacts inside.
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| trjford8 | -- 12-18-2018 @ 7:33 AM |
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You could have an issue with the ignition switch on the column. Take it apart and check and clean all the contacts inside.
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| TomO | -- 12-18-2018 @ 7:59 AM |
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If you are only getting 1.6 volts with the points closed, there is too much current flowing in the circuit. You could have a leaky condenser or a coil with shorted turns. Try a new condenser. I don't know where you can get a good one for a 34 Ford. Tom
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| JDBenner | -- 12-18-2018 @ 7:41 PM |
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Thanks. I'll check the ignition switch and try to get a new condenser.
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| JDBenner | -- 12-18-2018 @ 7:44 PM |
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Thanks. I'll check the ignition switch and try to find a new condenser.
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| JDBenner | -- 12-19-2018 @ 6:18 PM |
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I did find the ignition switch quite corroded so I'm concentrating on that right now.
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