| Sneezer | -- 07-23-2018 @ 5:06 AM |
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Is there a way of adapting a 1937 Ford car steering box to a 1935 Ford car column?
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| Steve Kennedy | -- 07-23-2018 @ 6:32 AM |
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For my '36, I understand I need to remove the steering mounting plate and bolt in the '37 plate. I don't know, but sounds like the front suspension will have to be dropped at that time to get the complete steering shaft to drop out. I plan to replace the '36 front suspension with at '39 suspension so I can get the hydraulic brake set up.
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| flatheadfan | -- 07-23-2018 @ 4:56 PM |
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Sneezer- Several years ago I wrote an article for the Golden Gate RG on how to do this swap you may find useful. There have been several reprints floating around If you can't find one send me a PM with your email address and I dig out a copy and send it to you. Tom. This message was edited by flatheadfan on 7-23-18 @ 4:57 PM
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| TomO | -- 07-24-2018 @ 6:50 AM |
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See topic https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=12112 for a link to the article. Tom
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| flatheadfan | -- 07-25-2018 @ 7:01 AM |
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Since I wrote the article I have made some revisions for clarity. The following may help: Mounting the gear- At this point you two options. The first is to drill a new mounting hole in the replacement gear box approximately 3/4" below the upper mounting hole in the gear casting. This will allow the replacement gear to be bolted directly to the existing '35-'36 mount. I have tried it this way but found the gearbox hits the stock exhaust manifold. This is because the '37-'40 box sits lower in the frame than the '35-'36 box does. When you re-drill the replacing box with a lower hole you effectively raise the box's mounting which creates an inference with the exhaust manifold. However, I have seen some applications that were done this way but required changing the exhaust manifold to gain gearbox clearance. This approach can be made to work but (in my opinion) looks somewhat "crude." However, if you are going a non-flathead such as a SBC you can go this route with minimal problems Where do potential problems lurk? As with any mechanical undertaking the unforeseen can complicate things. The two most common problems are removing the rivets and welds. The rivets are tough items that must be removed totally. Even a partial sh*ll can hold back a plate's removal. To minimize the problem try to drill in the center of the rivet and use a die grinder to remove any residue. The second problem is a lot more difficult to deal with. On several frames (more likely with '36s than '35s), a hidden spot weld was added to the top flange of the steering plate when it was installed in the double channel portion of the frame. Usually, this weld is near the rear mounted rivet (near the driver). It can complicate the plate removal. There is no magic way to remove this weld other than trying chisels, some heat, sawing, grinding and even the use of a crowbar! It just requires a lot of tenacity and luck on your part. In one case I had to spend two days getting the frame plate off! Just remember, the plate will come off but it will take some effort. Tom
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| Sneezer | -- 07-25-2018 @ 2:37 PM |
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Thanks for the reply Tom; I previously downloaded your instructions on what is involved in replacement. This project may materialize over the Winter when the snow flies in Wisconsin. The car currently steers like a bus. Arnie
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| Sneezer | -- 07-25-2018 @ 2:37 PM |
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Thanks for the reply Tom; I previously downloaded your instructions on what is involved in replacement. This project may materialize over the Winter when the snow flies in Wisconsin. The car currently steers like a bus. Arnie
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| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=12150 |