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KAS1954
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-- 05-06-2018 @ 12:14 PM
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My 1938 ford will crank but will not start, I am not receiving any spark to the plugs. I have rebuilt the coil and I have a new condenser. I tried putting a 6 volt test light on the coil terminal, I attached the other clamp of the test light to the body ground. However, the ignition switch is on but no light. Would I be able to jump from the battery to the coil terminal, to bypass that wire. I will very much appreciate yall's help.
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40cpe
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-- 05-06-2018 @ 12:22 PM
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Yes, you can jump from the battery to the ignition coil terminal as a test. Don't run the engine too long with the jumper as the original ignition circuit has a resistor inline to prevent overheating the coil.
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40 Coupe
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-- 05-07-2018 @ 5:19 AM
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I do not believe a test light would light with it connected to the coil terminal even with everything in good condition. The light is too low in resistance. You can read voltage there with an analog (not digital) voltmeter. When the points in the distributor are closed about 4.V and with them open, full battery voltage.
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carcrazy
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-- 05-07-2018 @ 1:15 PM
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Are you using a stock type of coil that mounts on top of the distributor or one of the adaptor kits that allows you to make use of a modern type of coil. In either case there is a spring loaded carbon brush that must make contact with the rotor within the distributor. Sometimes the brush can get stuck in a retracted position within the adaptor or coil so that it does not make contact with the rotor, if this happens you will have no spark at the plugs. A new Ignition Coil Contact Brush can be obtained from Yesteryear Ford Parts. For 1936-41 the part no. is 68-12010-S, brush & spring set. Their phone number is 517-676-4416.
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