| sarahcecelia | -- 06-30-2017 @ 7:11 AM |
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My amp gauge never goes in the green area, it stays in the tan area, very close to(about 1/32nd") from the green area. Generator (Took it off and had output checked by gen./starter shop)output is good- battery stays up, and I suspect the old gauge. I have a NOS gauge. Can I check it by connecting the right rear terminal to ground, and putting a jumper on it, or test light, to a source such as oil send unit or cyl. head temp. sender?I don't want to install it and have the same problem. Thanks for any help. This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 7-4-17 @ 1:14 PM
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| supereal | -- 06-30-2017 @ 9:46 AM |
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The '40 Ford used a voltmeter instead of an ammeter. Placing a regular voltmeter between a good ground and the output from the generator will confirm if he output is comparable to the dash reading. If you see about 7 1/2 volts at a high idle speed, the system is working. Dash gauges are slow to register due to their design. From your description, it seems your car is OK. Removing a dash gauge is not a simple operation, and often results in new problems.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 06-30-2017 @ 11:13 AM |
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Volts or amps is not the problem, but your right my '50 shows amps and the '40 is volts; but regardless,the unit only goes to just less than the green, in the tan area, and the book says it should go to green when it is charging properly. I want to know how to hook my N.O.S. one up, To test it without installing it, to see if it goes to the green area. Then, and only then, I'll confront taking the old one out, and installing the N.O.S one.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-01-2017 @ 5:01 AM |
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To check, connect the gauge to the power supply and dial in the proper output voltage. I believe there is an adjustment on the rear of the gauge under the cardboard cover. Give the gauge time to come up to the proper reading. You can also adjust your old gauge. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 7-1-17 @ 5:02 AM
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-03-2017 @ 9:59 AM |
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I took the paper disc off the new battery gauge (It is NOS#01A-10844) and there is no adjustment, so I doubt the old one has an adjustment either.I cleaned the (3)contacts on the regulator with 360 paper and then pulled a business card through them to clean any residue off them. I also spayed them with Radio Shack contact cleaner.I tried leaving the headlights on for about 10 minutes before I started the motor and rev'd it to about 1,000 RPM's. After a minute or so the needle stopped movement at the first edge of the tan area; It should go to somewhere in the green about 5/32" more and it NEVER does! Can I remove the BAT connection on the regulator and put a digital multi meter from Bat connection and it's wire to to read the voltage?Even after starting the car, it never goes to the green area, and starters draw about 230 amps, so I would think it would go to green for a few minutes. My '50 ford does. The battery is 6V and is always on a Battery Butler.
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| TomO | -- 07-03-2017 @ 10:30 AM |
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Warm the engine to operating temperatures. Connect a voltmeter between the BAT terminal of the voltage regulator and ground. Next increase the engine speed to around 1,200 RPM. The volt meter should read 7.2-7.6 Volts and the dash gauge should be be in the lower end of the green band. The orange band starts at 6.2V and goes up to 7.1V. The green sector is 7.1V-8.25V. Your dash gauge may be alright and your voltage regulator may need adjusting. It takes about 5 minutes for the voltage regulator to reach its operating range after the cover has been off. Do not try to adjust the regulator without having a calibrated analog meter. A digital meter can give false readings in this area, but will be accurate enough to check the output of the generator and the accuracy of the BATT gauge. Tom
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-03-2017 @ 3:11 PM |
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Tom, Can I use my digital multi meter (I assume by calibrated you mean "Factory calibrated"?)to go from the Bat terminal to ground to just read the volts?if you do mean "Factory Calibrated" I don't own a calibrated volt meter, and if I find that the regulator needs adjusting I'll go to my friendly garage and see if they have a calibrated volt meter, and if so, see if they can adjust the regulator. Are calibrated Volt meters inexpensive, and where is the best place to purchase one? Oreilly, Advance auto, etc. Can you name a brand to buy?
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| TomO | -- 07-03-2017 @ 8:26 PM |
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You can use your digital meter to read the voltage, but if the regulator needs adjusting, take it to a generator repair shop or buy a new one. By calibrated, I mean one that has been checked against a standard voltage source. It should be a precision meter and they are expensive. Tom
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-04-2017 @ 5:03 AM |
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Thanks Tom, That's what I thought. They cost upwards of $75- $200. I'll check it with my "El Cheapo" digital and If I have to have it adjusted I would go to a shop with a good calibrated voltmeter like a garage, or starter/ generator shop.Thank you again for your very kind and informative reply!! I love this forum; I read all of the problems guys are having, and learn a lot about how to do things that I haven't done before, and get different ideas about how to solve problems and/or fix things. Regards, Steve Lee This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 7-4-17 @ 1:16 PM
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-04-2017 @ 6:18 AM |
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Is this done with the wire on the BAT terminal on or off??I would think on, and the one probe on the terminal and the other probe to a ground; Right? This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 7-4-17 @ 1:20 PM
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| TomO | -- 07-04-2017 @ 7:03 AM |
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Steve, this is done with all connections in their normal position. You are just checking the output voltage level of the generator and comparing it to what the dash gauge is showing. Tom
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-23-2017 @ 7:40 AM |
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Your exactly right!! I looked yesterday at my NOS voltage gauge. I took the two nuts off of it, then the cardboard, and then the piece of metal under them; and There was a little hole in the back and I could see a few small "cogs" that would be to adjust it. When the the key is off my gauge in the car reads about an eighth of an inch to the left of the first red area, so maybe I need to move the needle to the start of that red area? I'm going to test the volt input at the regulator BATT terminal first at 12-1500 RPM's first, and if it is about 7.2-7.4, I''ll adjust The gauge up so it reads in the green at those revs. Problem is how to get to that gauge in the dash to do that! I'll get that figured out; have to! Where does yours read when the key is off? Is it at the start of the first red area? That would be important for me to know before I try to adjust it. Regards, Steve Lee
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