| voced | -- 06-14-2017 @ 4:51 PM |
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Who do you recommend to rebuild my 1936 steering box? Will a 1937 steering box work the same? What do you guys think would be best? Thanks, Jerry This message was edited by voced on 6-14-17 @ 6:09 PM
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| JM | -- 06-15-2017 @ 5:00 AM |
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Beginning in 37, Ford redesigned their steering box used in passenger cars, and some light commercial vehicles. They went from a fixed tooth sector gear to a rolling sector gear which was a vast improvement over 36 and earlier steering boxes. We replaced the original steering box in a 36 Phaeton 4 years ago with a stock 37 box that had been rebuilt, and it made a huge improvement in how that car steers. John
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| JM | -- 06-15-2017 @ 5:01 AM |
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....... This message was edited by JM on 6-15-17 @ 5:03 AM
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| voced | -- 06-15-2017 @ 5:29 AM |
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John: Does the 37 box fit the same without any problems and you can't tell the difference to look at it? Jerry
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| wmsteed | -- 06-15-2017 @ 9:26 PM |
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The '37-40 steering gear boxes are "almost" a direct replacement for the '36. however you will need a 37-40 frame mount, to replace the '36 mount. The head-light rod does require a little tweaking, as does the ignition lock ring, most people just remove the lock ring from the steering shaft. The down side is that the steering wheel locking feature is eliminated. Adding '37-40 steering gears to a '36 is almost as good as adding power steering. I converted my '36 to a '40 steering gear box in 1955. I opted for the '40 setup because my car has a column shift so the '40 a no brainer.. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| JM | -- 06-15-2017 @ 10:31 PM |
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The rebuilt '37 box that we used in the '36 Phaeton bolted in place perfectly after we changed to the '37-'40 frame mounting bracket. Everything worked well including location of locking collar on steering shaft for column locking mechanism. The 37-48 steering box looks different than the '36, but many folks, including some of the judges, would not recognize the difference ps...it is not a difficult job to relocate the locking collar on the steering shaft should that be required. All that's necessary is drilling two new locating holes in the steering shaft. No threading of these drilled holes would be required since the holes in the locking collar are already drilled and tapped. pss...I personally like the column locking feature on my early Ford V-8's. In addition to being a good theft deterent, it's also useful for locking the front end when doing some suspension repairs or adjustments. I've been driving these early Fords since the late 50's and the only problem I've had is lock cylinder pin and key wear which required jiggling the key around some to unlock the column John This message was edited by JM on 6-19-17 @ 7:49 AM
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| flatheadfan | -- 06-17-2017 @ 12:50 AM |
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I am not particularly a fan of Ford's steering gear "locking pin." Over the years I have the pin stick which in-turn disallowed me to switch on the power switch. The only way to overcome this is try to rotate the steering wheel back and forth while attempting to rotate the key (which can break off) or in a last resort, jack up the front end and wiggle the wheels back and forth while a helper puts rotational pressure on the key. And of course, this never happens in the comfort of your garage. Unless you live in a particular "tough" neighborhood I wouldn't concern myself too much with relocating the locking collar on the steering shaft. JMO Tom
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| mrtexas | -- 06-17-2017 @ 7:48 PM |
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https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexascitrus/home/36fordupgrades
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| wmsteed | -- 06-18-2017 @ 6:52 AM |
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I to am not a big fan of the ignition lock feature on the Early V8's. I do know that the EV's are about the easiest vehicles ever made to "hot-wire", the common trick was to place a half dollar over the contacts on the back of the switch. And yes, as "flatheadfan" said, the system is very prone to jamming.. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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