| mitchs67 | -- 04-22-2020 @ 2:59 PM |
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Hello, I am brand new to your forum and I am not very experienced with forums so if I am doing anything wrong, please let me know. I'm restoring and 1935 pickup that is all original. I have rebuilt the oil pump and have it all back together. What is the best oil to use in this engine? Thank you
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| 51504bat | -- 04-22-2020 @ 5:36 PM |
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You're going to get more answers than Carter has pills but here's my take. I run 20/50 and have several thousand miles on the rebuilt 8ba in my '39 p/u. Its stock except for a Chevy distributor. I do know that diesel oil is used by many for its higher zinc content. I've thought about switching over but I'm still on the fence. My '39 is a daily around town driver with an occasional 45 mile or so round trip to a nearby swap meet. It seems everyone has differing opinions so consider them and then make your own choice.
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| mitchs67 | -- 04-23-2020 @ 6:46 AM |
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Thank you for your response. I am still learning all of the termenology about the different engines. What is a 8ba? I'm pretty sure my engine is the original. It's a 1935 pickup with a flathead V8. Do you know what that engine is called? The 20/50 oil that you use. Is it non detergent or detergent oil ? Thank you very much.
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| 51504bat | -- 04-23-2020 @ 7:11 AM |
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20/50 detergent. Don't think non detergent oil is available any more. 8ba refers to flatheads used between '49 and '53. Trucks used the 8ba starting in '48 but it was referred to as 8rt. Trucks in Canada still used the flathead in '54. '52 and '53 Ford flatheads were designated as EAB. Mercs were 8cm. May sound confusing and this is just a general explanation and may have some generalizations. Van Pelt Sales LLC's web site has all kinds of good tech info about all things flatheads. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specs-85to100mid.htm Your engine should be a 21 stud flathead. Ford went to 24 stud flatheads in '38.
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| trjford8 | -- 04-23-2020 @ 8:26 AM |
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mitch, you might consider buying the V-8 Club's 35-36 book. although it is written for passenger cars the frames and running gear are the same for pickups. You can buy the book on this site. Welcome to the world of '32-53 Ford V-8's. Don't hesitate to ask questions. We are always happy to help people new to the hobby.
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| TomO | -- 04-23-2020 @ 8:41 AM |
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Ford recommended 30 weight oil for most of the flathead engines in the summer months. I am not sure what was recommended for the 1935, but I would go with a 10W-30 oil . A thick oil may not get to all of the needed areas at startup. Use a high detergent oil as it will reduce the tendency to form sludge. Run your engine for long periods to evaporate the moisture in the oil. Do it by driving the car, not letting it idle for long periods. If your engine overheats, change the oil as the heat breaks down the oil additives. Tom
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| mitchs67 | -- 04-23-2020 @ 5:29 PM |
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Is there a particular type and brand of oil that you would recommend?
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| 39 Ken | -- 04-24-2020 @ 4:42 AM |
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Pretty much any brand of oil on sale at your favorite store will do as all brands produced today are better than what was available back in the day. I use 10w30 to cover all seasons.
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| mitchs67 | -- 04-26-2020 @ 4:12 PM |
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I used Castrol 10w30 conventional oil. She started up and purs. What is the normal operating range for the oil preasure and engine temperature? Thank you.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-29-2020 @ 12:10 PM |
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hi Mitch if the engine is rebuilt you can use HD 20-50, 10-40 10-30 all depending were you live, I use 20-50 in my 37 IF it is cold, I wait till I see oil pressure.before starting, if it is a old engine, you would be better to use NON DETERGENT OIL straight 30 or 40 to thin a oil will reduce you oil pressure. all depends on the condition of the engine, so it does not loosen up the sludge found in the engine,you do not need this floating around in the engine, NON DETERGENT , can be found at tractor dealers, tractor supply, like straight 30 or 40 in the summer, also better auto supply stores, hope this helps 37Ragtopman
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| carcrazy | -- 04-29-2020 @ 4:59 PM |
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The zinc additives that reduce the wear of the sliding surfaces of the camshaft lobes and valve tappets have been greatly reduced or totally eliminated from most of the Diesel motor oils currently available. If you want to provide the protection required for flat tappet equipped engines, one thing you can do is make use of an oil additive. Since I bought my '53 Ford Flathead powered car five years ago I have been using the following oil/additive combination to good effect: Pennzoil SAE 30 Detergent Motor Oil with Red Line Engine Oil Break-In Additive. This additive contains the correct amounts of zinc and phosphorus to reduce valvetrain wear. I have driven this car over 15,000 miles with no ill effects. The car is a driver which gets its oil changed every 2,000 miles. I use the original partial flow oil filter system on this car.
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| TomO | -- 04-30-2020 @ 8:24 AM |
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The Ford flatheads do not have strong valve springs and do NOT need any anti-wear additives to a good grade of motor oil. Your choice of Castol 10w-30 is a good one, don't contaminate it with additives that just empty your pocket book. Straight weight oil is made for lawnmowers not car engines. The multi-viscosity oils give better lubrication as the viscosity remains nearly constant from cold to normal operating range. The answer to your question about the normal oil pressure depend on which oil pump is installed in your engine. I will assume that it id the 50# pump and the normal range would be from 15# at idle to 30# at 40mph. The exact numbers do not mean much, as some engines will read lower and still run forever. Just check your oil regularly and add oil when it gets low. Also listen to your engine, if it sounds noisy, the oil may be thinning out from fuel leakage, so it is time to change it. Tom
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| carcrazy | -- 04-30-2020 @ 11:22 AM |
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The reason for using the straight 30 weight motor oil is that the thinner weight and multi-grade oils find more paths to leak out of the engine. The reason for using the additive is to reduce the wear between the cam lobe and the push rod of the double acting, vacuum booster, combination fuel pump.
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| TomO | -- 05-01-2020 @ 11:30 AM |
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10W-30 oil has the same viscosity as 30W oil when the engine is at operating temperatures. Modern oils have many different chemicals in them to improve performance and wear protection. Using an additive can change the properties for the worse. I am not a chemical engineer, so I don't want to make my own witches brew for the oil pan. I started using Mobile 1 synthetic oil in my Lincoln to take advantage of the better lubricating qualities of the synthetic oil. After 200 miles the engine was running smoother and quieter. It also seems to have more pep. I intend to start using it in my Merc to see if it has the same effect on the flathead. Tom
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