| 39mercury | -- 05-17-2021 @ 1:13 PM |
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My 39 has recently developed a pronounced ticking noise when I accelerate. My first inclination is to focus on the exhaust manifold? I had duel exhaust installed and glass pack mufflers installed during the restoration. Recently I have been driving the car more often and have noticed the ticking sound only when I accelerate. No blue smoke or loss of acceleration just the annoyance of the tick tick tick tick when hit the go pedal. Thanks, Steve Middleton
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| carcrazy | -- 05-17-2021 @ 1:54 PM |
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Do you have a full-time electric fuel pump installed? If so, when the demand for fuel increases, the fuel pump may be constantly working to it's capacity and staying on all the time.
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| 39mercury | -- 05-17-2021 @ 2:13 PM |
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Still have the mechanical fuel pump only, and it is new.
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| Braig260k | -- 05-17-2021 @ 8:41 PM |
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Hate to say - but could be main rear journal . Had this myself . Check by removing back sparklead on both sides and when running give it a rev to see if there is no noise . If thats the case - well search deeper into motor .
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| TomO | -- 05-18-2021 @ 7:48 AM |
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Use a long screwdriver or a stethoscope to isolate the noise. If the noise only occurs under load, try using the next higher octane of fuel. If it has been a long time since your points were replaced, it may be a timing issue. Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 05-18-2021 @ 8:59 AM |
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39Mercury I would try to block off the tailpipes and see if the tick gets louder most likely it happened when you had the recent work done, was it quiet before ? exhaust tick most likely, take it back to the man who did the work and see what he thinks, maybe needs to check the exhaust bolts and nuts that they are tight, before the exhaust gasket blows out, , hope this helps 37Ragtopman This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 5-18-21 @ 9:50 AM
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| trjford8 | -- 05-19-2021 @ 7:38 AM |
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When installing the duals did you use the stock manifolds or headers? Did you make sure you had the correct size bolts in the front of the manifolds? Check all the welds on the pipes.
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| 39mercury | -- 05-19-2021 @ 2:52 PM |
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Thanks to everyone providing feedback and good advice for where and how to narrow down and fix my Ticking noises. I did not change over to headers and used the stock manifolds and the muffler shop doing the welding. I will take some photos of the Engine Bay to share with the Forum in the next couple of days.
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| carcrazy | -- 05-19-2021 @ 3:23 PM |
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Did you do anything to increase the compression ratio like having the heads milled or installing aluminum high compression heads? If you did increase the compression, it may now be too high for the Octane of the fuel you are using. If you are currently using regular fuel and experiencing the ticking (or detonation), try going to premium fuel to see if it reduces or eliminates the noise.
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| 39mercury | -- 05-21-2021 @ 3:05 PM |
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I took some images of my Rh and Lh exhaust manifolds specifically where the Muffler shop welded the pipes to the flange. I appears the Rh side shows some evidence of a small leak?
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| TomO | -- 05-25-2021 @ 8:41 PM |
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That could be the source of your noise, put your hand carefully near the pipe and have an assistant rev the engine. You should feel exhaust gasses if that is leaking Tom
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| 39mercury | -- 05-26-2021 @ 8:06 AM |
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I think it is as well. Good idea for testing the leak. I should have some time and an assistant this weekend to help me check it out. I will report back my results. Any thoughts on if I should install a set of Headers? I have a Mitch*ll overdrive that I bought for it 8 years ago as well and I plan on installing it in the future. I ordered it with the separate stick for engagement rather than the switch. Having second thoughts about another shifter on the floor, but it seemed to be the best choice since I have elected to keep it as original with 6V electronics but I would like to improve the performance at 55-65 without taxing the Flathead. Thanks, Steve
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| carcrazy | -- 05-26-2021 @ 10:51 AM |
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If you do install headers, the best ones to use are the Fenton Cast Iron Headers. They are as durable as the stock exhaust manifolds but flow much better. The under hood noise with these cast iron headers is much less than with typical sheet metal headers. Have the headers installed by a competent exhaust shop that is capable of bending and fabricating the exhaust pipes so they will clear the clutch system and other under the car items for best results and minimum aggravation.
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| TomO | -- 05-26-2021 @ 6:11 PM |
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I have Fenten headers on my 40 Merc. They look nice, but are a pain to install and I had to modify the dipstick tube to make the headers fit. I did not notice any improved performance or change in gas mileage after I installed them. I would just stick with the stock manifolds. I personally do not like the Mitch*ll over drive. It requires too many modifications to install. I have been driving my 40 Merc with the stock 3.54:1 rear end, at 55 mph for over 50 years and only had problems when I drove at slow speeds in hilly country, then I had to use a lower gear than I would have normally chosen. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 5-26-21 @ 6:11 PM
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| sarahcecelia | -- 05-28-2021 @ 4:44 AM |
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Whomever did that welding did a very poor job! That is your problem with the "ticking." Good welding is not a series of "blobs; it is a series of overlapping welds all in a row." Go to a good pro welding shop and look at some of their welds- You'll see what I'm talking about! Regards, Steve Lee
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| sarahcecelia | -- 05-28-2021 @ 4:48 AM |
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Those welds are terrible! Go to a pro welding shop and look at their welds! Regards, Steve Lee
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| 39mercury | -- 06-03-2021 @ 7:03 PM |
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Thanks for your honesty Steve! Those welds are bad. I think that since I’m driving it more often I am noticing what still needs fixed. I have a friend lined up to fix them. I also noticed the oil was down a quart when I drove it last week so maybe the oil I added will also help.
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