| Chascwell2 | -- 04-29-2017 @ 5:16 PM |
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Last fall I had a total engine failure, as things were going wrong there was a lot of engine overheating, it blew the radiator as well as forcing water out under the radiator hoses. Now that we have a new engine installed, the temperature gauge reads on the high side even though the engine temp is normal. There is also a new temp sender in the cyl head and all connections are clean. Has anyone needed to recalibrate an electric temp gauge? chascwell
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| TomO | -- 04-30-2017 @ 8:12 AM |
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The King Seeley gauges are usually quite close to the condition that they are monitoring. It would help if you gave more information about your car. What year is it? Do you have 2 sending units, connected in series? Is your car 6 volts or 12 volts? Did you use teflon tape or pipe dope to seal the threads on the sender? Tom
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| Chascwell2 | -- 05-01-2017 @ 4:46 PM |
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The car is a 1940 Mercury, there is one sender on the left bank. It has not been recently installed, it came with the replacement engine. I removed the attaching wire and filed the connections to make sure they had good contact. I guess my concern is that the gauge was forced into an extreme position when the engine blew and the gauge may need to be recalibrated, however I do not know if an electric gauge can be recalibrated. chascwell
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| 39 Ken | -- 05-02-2017 @ 5:21 AM |
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A new or rebuilt engine will naturally run hotter until it is broken in. Also, the King Seeley gauges are not always exact but will give you a good benchmark. You should go out and buy a hand held temp gauge and check the temperatures on various parts of the engine with particular attention to the area on the heads where the original temp sensor is located. I wouldn't run thermostats until you have broken in the engine and you have a handle on the actual running temps then install 180 degree thermostats for the best running temps and efficiency.
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| TomO | -- 05-02-2017 @ 9:28 AM |
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Thanks for updating your question. I am guessing that you have used a reliable thermometer to check the coolant temperature. I like to use a candy thermometer sold in hardware stores. Just clip it into the radiator opening with the tip immersed in the coolant. The gauge and the sending unit work as a pair and the current in the circuit causes the gauge needle to move. The original King-Seely sending units have a wire wound around a bi-metal strip that opens and closes a set of contacts. The needle move toward cold at maximum current and towards hot as the current decreases. My feelings are that the sending unit is not working correctly. Check for continuity between the sh*ll of the sending unit and the head. Connect your test leads together to find the 0 ohms reading on a digital meter, and to zero the reading on an analog meter. Connect the meter leads between the sh*ll of the sending unit and the head. Any resistance here will lead to a higher temperature reading. If your sending unit is properly grounded, the next thing I would do is replace the sending unit. Try to find a good used one, as some the replacement ones have a thermister inside instead of the contact point and bi-metal strips. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 05-02-2017 @ 3:19 PM |
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Chascwell - you never mentioned in reply to TomO's questions whether teflon tape or pipe dope were used to seal the threads on the sender. Please advise in that regard. Thanks in advance - Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 5-2-17 @ 3:21 PM
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| Chascwell2 | -- 05-02-2017 @ 4:38 PM |
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I think checking the resistance between the sh*ll of the sending unit and the cyl head is a good idea. I did not remove and reinstall this sending unit, but checking there is a good idea too. Thanks for the replies. chascwell
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