| andrefordt | -- 10-24-2016 @ 3:17 AM |
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Hello All, I am willing to change the contact points of the 1948 Lincoln V 12 and have never done this before. Can someone walk me through this an easy way. Need the distributor be taken out of the car to do this right? What is the way to set piston 1 at Top Dead Center. In the attachment a copy of the information I already have. Thanks Andre Belgium
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| andrefordt | -- 10-24-2016 @ 3:21 AM |
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An other picture. Andre
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| andrefordt | -- 10-24-2016 @ 3:22 AM |
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and the information I already have. Thanks
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| ken ct. | -- 10-24-2016 @ 4:15 AM |
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Points must be sincronized on these ok if you have the machine to do this. Otherwize not a DIYS project. These are not like a ford setup. ken ct. PS hes lucky to have found a new set of points. The spring part is same as ford but not the scr*w*d down part. This message was edited by ken ct. on 11-7-16 @ 12:56 PM
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| TomO | -- 11-07-2016 @ 9:29 AM |
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Ken is correct with his statement that you need a distributor machine to synchronize the points. Remove the distributor and coil and send them to Skip Haney in FL. He will set up the distributor and check out the coil for you. You do not need to have no 1 cylinder at TDC in order to time the engine or replace the distributor. It has an offset tang that mates with a slot in the camshaft to ensure that the distributor cannot be re-installed out of time. Fine timing is done with setting the break time of the points on a distributor machine. The easiest way is to remove the plug from the no 1 cylinder and crank the engine until you feel the compression stroke, the make the tool described in this post. http://www.toolsandgarages.com/index.php?topic=653.0 To make it easier to install the distributor, buy some 1 1/2 bolts that are the same size as the mounting bolts for the distributor. Cut off the heads and cut a slot in the end of the bolt. Screw the bolts into the timing cover far enough to support the distributor. Slide the distributor onto the bolts and turn the rotor until the tang seats in the cam and the distributor is flat against the timing cover. Then remove the cut off bolts and replace with the correct bolts, one at a time until the distributor is firmly mounted in place. Tom
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| ken ct. | -- 11-07-2016 @ 12:52 PM |
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Thanks for the backup Tom,ive done many Fords but never a Lincoln. ken ct.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-04-2017 @ 7:31 AM |
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Easier way to find TDC- I have a drilled out spark plug (porcelaine removed ) with a dial indicator mounted in it.install it in #1 cylinder plug hole, turn the motor over (by Hand!), watch the indicator movement, it will go up as the piston comes up, and when it reaches TDC, it will start to go down. Then move it(the motor) in the opposite direction to that high point. Bingo! You can't get anymore accurate than that!! Easy to make, easy to use,and accurate! I used to use this tool to set the timing on my Mercury racing motor at 290 thousandths before TDC; and how else could you do that?? Regards, Steve Lee
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-04-2017 @ 7:32 AM |
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Only easy way: George 'Skip" Haney, Punta Gorda, Fl. ,USA Regards, Steve Lee
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| 56MarkII | -- 07-31-2017 @ 10:51 AM |
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sarahcecelia this sounds what I used to deal with numerous times a day working full time on Motoccycle, snowmobile, and small engines in general. I had to set the timing on multiple cylinders with multiple points mounted on a stator plate that also had to be rotated. All being located under a flywheel with small openings to do the adjustments. Set both points where the timing was as lose to each other as possible using the gap to advance or retard (wide advanced, close retard) and then rotating the stator if both were too late or too early using an ohm meter and dial indicator and the point gap was a pita because I had to use brass feeler gauges so they wouldn't pull to the magnets. Then there was the offset dial indicator with an arm that would reach over to the piston as you described for four stroke. Did this for twenty years and on a positive note for this type of work is many of these small engines have valve clearance set like the flathead V8 so while flatheads scare people away from valve jobs, I find them easy and spend extra time to make sure they are spot on! NO I don't use adjustable tappets! I made that mistake 30 years ago on my 50 Merc where I used that garbage on a good used camshaft. The new adjustable tappets seated into the used camshaft requiring me to pull the intake multiple times to readjust whereas the solid if kept in order when set were set! Went off topic but that's my 2 cents
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