| chrismac | -- 01-17-2010 @ 5:05 AM |
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I am restoring a 1940 station wagon and the book has been very helpful. The hardware type and finish charts in the front are really helpful. What color and type of coating is "raven"? Did Ford typically paint individual parts and assemble them or assemble a componant and then paint it? The rear axle is a good example. The book does not define what finish is used on the bolts that hold the axle housings to the differential housing nor the hardware for the pinion seal housing. Should these be raven or should they be painted with the housings as a complete assembled unit? Thanks, Chris
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| kubes40 | -- 01-17-2010 @ 7:08 AM |
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Hi Chris, 'Raven' finish is similar to a satin black. The raven finish was a plating rather than paint. Unfortunately there are no steadfast answers that apply to each and every component of your '40 Ford. RE, Your example of the differential housing: The bolts are in fact raven finish. They were installed after the housings were painted. Thus, the bolts have no paint on them nor do the gaskets at the axle housings and torque tube. Also, the safety wire that threads the torque tube to differential housing bolts should have no paint upon it. Hope this helps... Mike Kubarth This message was edited by kubes40 on 1-30-10 @ 6:26 AM
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| chrismac | -- 01-17-2010 @ 5:30 PM |
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Darn! That is gonna be difficult! Is raven a finish that is still readily available at plating shops? Is it different than black oxide? Was it typical of Ford to paint individual pieces and assemble them with plated hardware instead of assembling the componant and painting it? Were there areas where hardware was painted black instead of plated? Thanks, Chris
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| trjford8 | -- 01-18-2010 @ 7:08 AM |
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chrismac, no need to go to plating shop. You can get the correct raven finish bolts from Roy Nacewicz. Go to; www.fordbolts.com. He is listed in the vendor section on this site. Roy can supply any bolts that you will need.
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| TomO | -- 01-18-2010 @ 7:13 AM |
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Be aware that the correct raven finish bolts will rust when exposed to damp conditions. Clear coating with a satin finish helps. Tom
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| kubes40 | -- 01-18-2010 @ 10:17 AM |
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Yes, black oxide is the ticket! I too am a fan of what Roy Nacewicz offers and suggest you contact him for your needs. On a '40 Ford I can not think of any specific areas that were painted after they were assembled. Even the water pumps were painted prior to assembly. Thus the shaft at the center of the pulley is 'plain' finish. The blocks too were painted and then machined so any areas that are smooth (milled) do not have paint upon them. Gaskets never have paint on them either...
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| chrismac | -- 01-19-2010 @ 4:56 AM |
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I understand. I will contact Roy. Will judges deduct points for hardware that does not have the correct original finish? I bet a lot of restorations get done with painted, stainless or cad plated hardware to prevent rusting. Buying all new hardware then clear coating it will be a big hassle. Thanks for the info! Chris
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| kubes40 | -- 01-19-2010 @ 6:08 AM |
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Incorrect hardware and / or incorrect finish on the hardware are two of the places so often overlooked during a restoration. While it is easier to simply go to the local hardware store and pick up a bag of fasteners, it is also the incorrect way to do a true restoration. If you are simply attempting to make a 'driver' and want to save time & perhaps a little money, then the hardware stuff will certainly suffice. If you are thinking of someday competing on the Concourse, then the correct hardware is a 100% must. On the Concourse you most certainly you will have points deducted for incorrect hardware.
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