| dolmer | -- 06-06-2011 @ 9:35 AM |
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I am in the process of negotiating on a 1940 business coupe. Can anyone offer me some things to look for and to avoid when talking money with the owner. With the T-Birds that I used to collect, anything not original such as paint, wheels, non matching engine really lowers the price. Is that true in cars from the 40's. For instance, this has an engine from 48. Is that a big deal?
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| supereal | -- 06-06-2011 @ 10:24 AM |
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Anything non-original to the car does have an effect on value. There isn't enough space here to give advice on what to look for. It is very good to take along an experienced "old car" guy, if you have one to call. If you are a Club member, look in your roster for thoses in your area. Most are happy to assist you. One thing that never changes: Don't buy any car that doesn't have an authentic title!
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| deluxe40 | -- 06-06-2011 @ 5:17 PM |
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I agree with supereal. Make sure that the Serial number on the title matches the number stamped on top of the left frame rail between the front cross member and the fire wall. The number starts and ends with a star. Secondly, I'll assume that your T-bird experience will help you evaluate the fit and finish of the car. On a '40 check the alignment of the hood with the cowl, grill and fenders. Also, check to see that the trunk lid doesn't have big gaps on the sides from being pushed in at the bottom. You can also check for Ford script in small ovals in the corners of the glass. An original or a good restoration will have them and they have dates - two digits of month on the left of the Script and last two digits of the year on the right. Also, check the rubber on the running boards. An original or a good restoration will have vulcanized rubber whereas less well restored cars will have the glue-on covers. A car with the correct interior materials is worth quite a bit more that one with a nicely done non-stock interior (IMHO). A working Columbia rear-end with the proper controls would add about $5000 to the value of the car. In general, an attractive, nice-driving '40 coupe that has been fixed up with the incorrect colors and materials would be worth only about 1/2 the value of a correctly restored car in similar condition (my opinion).
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| trjford8 | -- 06-07-2011 @ 7:42 AM |
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In addition to Bob and Glen's advice make sure to buy a car with the best sheetmental you can find. Look for any patch panels, check to make sure the floor pans are original and solid, check the inside edges of the fenders for rebar or tubing that was welded in to strengthen weak edges, make sure the frame is solid(frames can rot in the area where the X member meets the rear of the side rail), and check door bottoms, etc. You can afford to be choosey when buying, as getting the best car you can find will save you money down the road. Again, take someone who is knowledgeable about Ford V-8's with you to look at the car. A second set of eyes may see things that you miss.
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| supereal | -- 06-07-2011 @ 1:57 PM |
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Thanks, Tom. Since the '40 coupes have become the darling of the street rod guys, the prices have been bumped up accordingly. I think it is interesting that Bob Drake is producing the whole body for the '40 coupe since most of the better specimens have been snapped up. I've seen rather pedestrian examples topping the 25K$ mark. For me, a chronic overpayer for old cars, that seems a whole lot of money, given what I know about even modest restoration costs.
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| dolmer | -- 06-18-2011 @ 7:15 PM |
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Thank all who replied for the suggestions. Windows have proper etching, running board rubber is excellent, sheet metal passes the magnet test, original color, but a 59A motor. Many options and all correct dash and knobs make it seem like a good deal. I bought it. Thanks again. DOlmer dolmer
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| trjford8 | -- 06-18-2011 @ 8:14 PM |
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dolmer, congratulations on your new purchase. Drive it and enjoy it. Join the V-8 Club, you'll enjoy the V-8 Times magazine and you will get lots of good advice on your '40.
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