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shogun1940
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-- 11-16-2010 @ 4:57 PM
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mike my wood bows have many hole and some dry rot that i am repairing with Quick Poly, but I was thinking of replacing them . Any one do you recomend or not recomend. Also did sedan delivery& converts have .010 thicker steel in the frames?
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kubes40
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-- 11-16-2010 @ 7:12 PM
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The convertible frame was most certainly .010" thicker than the closed car frames. I honestly don't know enough about the sedan delivery to offer a positive answer.
Every reproduction wooden bow that I have had has required some finessing to gain a proper fit. I'd suggest, if possible using the originals. As the bows are covered, any repairs done well, will not be visible.
In summary, if the bows you have are structurally sound, repair as necessary and use them.
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ford38v8
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-- 11-16-2010 @ 10:12 PM
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Mike, not having done research on frame thickness, I cannot refute your statement, but I wonder if you can produce evidence to back you up. I have heard that 60hp cars may have a front crossmember of a thinner steel, and I do know that a convertible has an extra brace under the front seat area, but I always thought the thicker frame for a convertible was a myth. A well placed thin brace, you know, can add considerable strength where 50 lbs of extra thickness can offer little.
Alan
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kubes40
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-- 11-17-2010 @ 6:45 AM
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Hi Alan,
The only 'evidence' I can offer is the fact that convertible frames bore a completely different part number and my personal experience.
I've had a number of 40 convertibles that retained their original frames. They were in fact thicker than the closed cars I've had.
Cross member being different for a 60HP? I've only restored one 60HP car, a 39. The front member was most certainly the same as its big brother - the 85. The only modification I note is the addition of the two riveted plates to accept the smaller engine (mounts).
This message was edited by kubes40 on 11-17-10 @ 6:49 AM
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supereal
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-- 11-17-2010 @ 9:14 AM
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For what it is worth, the green book does show different frame part numbers for closed and open cars, and sedan deliveries with different suffixes.
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ford38v8
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-- 11-17-2010 @ 10:44 PM
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Mike & Bob, in a quick review of parts numbers going into frame assemblies, there does indeed appear to be differences between open and closed body frame assemblies. The odd thing is, although there were many different crossmembers, gussets, pads and braces, I could not find a frame side member part number anywhere, even on the line drawings of frames. My search was done in the 1949 Orange Bible, so there may still a chance someone could nail it down with another catalogue.
To my thinking though, the different frame assembly numbers are due solely to add-on members, which may be different thicknesses as reported. Those part descriptions and applications did not, however, indicate thicknesses nor open/closed/85/60 breakdown on pass cars, although some truck frames were identified as "reinforced".
It would be good if someone took a micrometer aka: a "mike" to some siderails and crossmembers!
Sorry, Mike, I couldn't resist the pun!
Alan
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kubes40
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-- 11-18-2010 @ 5:49 AM
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Hey Alan,
I have to admit I never checked the thickness of the cross members, only the side rails.
The side rails are definitely thicker on convertible frames. 50# of added weight I would think would be a gross exaggeration. I'd find it difficult to believe it added even 5#. Consider a thick layer of foil (.010") the width of the side rails, etc. I'd bet my 5# guess is too much.
The extra thickness of course would have been thought necessary to prevent torsional twisting of the frame rails. A 10% increase in the thickness would in fact add a lot of rigidity to those sections.
I do know for fact the 60HP frame is the same as the 85 in 1939. I am thinking the 1940 frame would also be the same between the two engine applications.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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supereal
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-- 11-18-2010 @ 3:27 PM
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Even though convertibles are supposed to be reinforced, most, such as mine, will pop the doors when put on a lift, anyway. For wood bows with lots of nail holes, we use a trick I learned years ago from an antique dealer. Just fill the holes with plain old Bondo. It doesn't shrink or fall out, and will accept new tacks without cracking.
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shogun1940
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-- 11-22-2010 @ 6:37 PM
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I did not know what i was starting with frame rail thickness, my convert & sedan delivery measure .110 if I remember right. Now I am going to have to go measure again. Thanks for the tip on the bondo. Like i said I am trying this stukk called Quick poly, it can be mixed with various fillers even sawdust. thanks again
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kubes40
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-- 11-23-2010 @ 8:39 AM
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You started nothing but some interesting banter 
I'd suggest a poly fill similar to what you've been using. Bondo will dry out, shrink and crack when used in a wood environment.
The frame thickness you've seen on your vehicles is correct.
Regards,
Mike
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supereal
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-- 11-23-2010 @ 2:06 PM
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Mike: I've been using Bondo for years on damaged wood to fill tack holes, etc, and never had it crack or fall out, beginning with my Model A's. It has to be worked into the defects, and sanded smooth, of course.
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37RAGTOPMAN
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-- 11-23-2010 @ 3:21 PM
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I do not know how big the wood you need to replace, but I used a garbage can, put water in it, built a fire under it and hung the oak wood inside.
let it steam for a while till,, the oak gets soft, and you can bent it,
just make a simple jig to hold it ,in the position you need, once dry you have a bent piece of wood,
I made top parts for a 1913 FORD T, years ago,
lot easier then you think, the bigger the wood the bigger the pot,
you can hang strips of wood on end. in a longer drum,
THIS IS DOING IT ON THE CHEAP.and you are learning !!!
my 3 cents worth,37RAGTOPAN, and KEEP on FORDIN
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kubes40
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-- 11-24-2010 @ 6:56 AM
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Hey Super,
I've heard that if the wood is sealed very well prior to the bondo being applied, it won't be a problem. Maybe I'm a chicken s---, but I'm not willing to take the chance to save a few ยข.
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shogun1940
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-- 11-26-2010 @ 6:03 PM
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mike what bkind of wood did ford use on the bows?
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