| fortyford | -- 03-25-2023 @ 8:19 AM |
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I have been considering maybe to install my oil filter system back on.I removed years ago because one of the lines was leaking.I was just curious if anyone reproduces these lines now?Also I was thinking if I re-install I feel my oil pressure will drop some,its not that great now.
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| kubes40 | -- 03-25-2023 @ 8:55 AM |
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The lines are not reproduced. Also, I'd be very apprehensive to utilize any NOS lines. If you are not concerned with point judging, any hydraulic hose service in your area can make the lines quite reasonably. Bring your old ones so they can match them. If you place a restrictor fitting in the supply side line, you will not lose any oil pressure. The restrictor should be .060". Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| fortyford | -- 03-25-2023 @ 10:09 AM |
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OK,thanks Kube.I saved the lines and hoping all the clamps.Problem is not sure exactly how everything goes?
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| gwistrup | -- 03-25-2023 @ 3:39 PM |
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I have a similar situation with my car. The oil filter lines are originals and they look like they could burst at any moment and I need to replace them. Where was the restrictor located with the original setup? I have not removed the lines yet to see what type of fittings are on them. Chysler products used steel line for the oil filter plumbing. Would there be a problem with using steel line?
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| fortyford | -- 03-26-2023 @ 5:59 AM |
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Kube,PM sent.
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| carcrazy | -- 03-26-2023 @ 8:08 AM |
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C&G offers an Oil Filter Line Set for 1941-46 Ford V-8s. These are hard steel lines that can possibly be modified to fit your application. While not correct for concourse competitions they can provide a workable solution to your problem. If you no longer have the original fitting that goes on the inlet to your oil filter cannister which contains the .060 restrictor, you will have to fabricate one.
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| gwistrup | -- 03-29-2023 @ 7:27 PM |
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My oil filter is plumbed with pipe fittings and it doesn't look like there is a restrictor threaded to the housing on the outside. Would the restrictor be located between the inlet hose and the housing? The inlet is attached to the side of the housing and the outlet comes out the bottom. Is this correct?
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| carcrazy | -- 03-29-2023 @ 8:16 PM |
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The restrictor would be in the fitting (base P.N. 6073) located between the inlet line and the oil filter cannister. You are correct, the inlet line runs from the back of the engine to the side of the filter housing. The outlet line is attached to the bottom of the housing.
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| Drbrown | -- 07-17-2023 @ 8:26 AM |
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From the outfield .... my '47 apparently never had an oil filter. There are no connection points/fittings or perhaps someone removed them (?). Regardless, I change the oil at no more than every 1,000 miles using a 10w30 HD (high detergent) oil which I believe is a better quality than available in those times. At that point it still looks pretty good with little or no sediment so I don't plan to add a filter set up.
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| carcrazy | -- 07-17-2023 @ 10:09 AM |
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DrBrown, What you are doing by using SAE 10w-30 HD oil sounds good if you have no oil leaks and burn no oil. If the oil you are using has an API Service of SM or higher (SN,SO,SP, are higher) then the zinc additive package has been removed. You will want to put this additive package into your oil to minimize the wear between the camshaft lobes and the bottom surfaces of the tappets. The required additive package of ZDDP, phosphorus, zinc and sulphur is contained in a Red Line product called "Engine Oil Break-in Additive". Just add the amount of this product called out on the label each time you change your oil. I would use an SAE 30 HD oil in my flatheads to cut down on leaks. Since I live in a climate where the temperature rarely drops below freezing, I don't need to use multigrade oils.
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-17-2023 @ 11:37 AM |
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Drbrown, Changing your oil at 1000 mile intervals can do nothing but good for your engine, no matter what oil you use. The thing about detergent oil is that it keeps impurities suspended rather than settling out overnight as non detergent does, to be filtered out or drained out, so you have a zero sum game if you don't consider the sludge buildup from non detergent oil. Alan
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| Drbrown | -- 07-25-2023 @ 9:31 AM |
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carcrazy: Previous owners of this car apparently took good care of it as I found no measurable sludge in the oil pan. The engine was rebuilt not much before I bought it so that is likely a factor. I have no oil leaks except for an occasional drip from the cotter pin that hangs in the hole at the bottom of the flywheel cover, which I understand is normal via the sling at the rear of the crank - no seal on rear of these cranks. The engine seems not to burn oil, at least I never lose any between 1000 mile oil changes. I live where seasonal temperatures go from say 95 down to zero in winter, but for sure I'm not driving it at below 32 degrees anyway since that's when salt is spread on the roadways. Based on some posts and recommendations here from some years back, I use Penn HD oil and "Rislone Engine Oil Supplement with Zinc" - comes in 11 oz containers - states intended for "older engines".
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