| shogun1940 | -- 07-29-2010 @ 7:20 AM |
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where can i get a bolt like this , its from a 40 conv. top, it is 11/16 across the top
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| kubes40 | -- 07-29-2010 @ 9:08 AM |
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I am not aware of anyone that produces the top bolts for a '40 convertible. You might try Roy Nacewicz. Otherwise, any halfway decent machine shop can make one in under 1/2 hour (that includes set up time). If you go that route, bring the other side (bolt) to the shop for them to duplicate. Mike Kubarth
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| supereal | -- 07-29-2010 @ 10:30 AM |
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Most convertible top bolts are eccentrics, as well as fasteners. As Mike suggests, a good machine shop can duplicate them. Take a good one from the other side to the shop so a copy can be made. Many of the bolts on my '47 top were replaced by ordinary ones, so we had to make them so the top could be adjusted. I tried to find a supplier, with no luck. We started with a large bolt and cut them in a lathe. It is tricky, as the chuck has to be offset to make the cam part. The originals are usually plated, but we just painted the heads to match the irons. So far, no one has noticed. Of course, the top is down for much of the driving season.
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| kubes40 | -- 07-29-2010 @ 1:21 PM |
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None of the top bolts on a '40 are eccentric. Just plain old fashioned shoulder bolts.
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| deuce_roadster | -- 07-29-2010 @ 6:42 PM |
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I had the same problem and using stainless steel hex stock made my own on a metal lathe. If you get the right kind of ss it will polish up like chrome and you won't have any plating charges. Very easy for a machine shop, have them make you a pair.
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| supereal | -- 07-30-2010 @ 9:08 AM |
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Mike: Without eccentrics, how can the top be adjusted to drop evenly on the header? I don't doubt your info, but after spending many hours adjusting the tops on later open cars, I'm curious how it works without them. Tiny differences show up as big ones due to the geometry of the mechanism.
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| kubes40 | -- 07-31-2010 @ 6:12 AM |
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On a '40 there were only a couple of places that allowed any type of adjustment. Eccentric bolts probably would have helped but simply weren't in the cards for '40. One place to adjust was the front clamps. That did little for alignment of the top but merely pulled the front down evenly. Another place was above the B pillar. There was a long machine screw in the vertical post of the top mechanism. This aided in the fit near the rear of the door (window). One more place was the yoke on each vacuum canister. It could be lengthened (raised) or shortened (lowered) to place a bit more (or less) tension on the top in the area directly adjacent to the back seat area. Once again, perhaps not the best design but that was the way it was done. You ask how it works without eccentric bolts? Well, not easily. Adjusting the top is a certain test in patience. It can in fact be done properly, allowing for a beautifully fit top. A pain in the bu--? Yep. This message was edited by kubes40 on 7-31-10 @ 6:14 AM
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| supereal | -- 07-31-2010 @ 1:31 PM |
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Thanks, Mike. I suspect that Ford was in the development stage with the '40 top, as that was the only year to use the vacuum setup. The lack of rear quarter windows probably made the adjustment easier. I have a Hydro-E-Lectric system in my '47, which is a bit slow, but a whole lot less costly than the original firewall pump. It is hidden, and does the job. A good friend was restoring a '48 convertible at the same time I tackled mine, so we exchanged tips. Unfortunately the shop that did his top put it on too tight, and when it was latched, the doors didn't fit! I agree that adjusting any folding top is a pain in the you-know-where.
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