They are working with getting a better fit on the fender skirts...
It should be back sometime this week.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
When it comes home, I will take the instrument panel, the parking brake lever, and the steering column out to be painted.
Still might be home sometime this week...
Rear license plate holder, tail light buckets, tail lights, deck handle.
Connecting tail light wires and clipping them to the frame is next, them rear bumper brackets...
It is slow going but worth it. Additional stainless trim is now on the hood, the window glass, felts, channels and regulators are in three of the four doors, and the windshield wiper towers are in and connected to the vacuum motor (paper towels are wrapped around the ends of the wiper arms to prevent the windshield glass from being scratched before the wiper blades go back on).
This morning the Front Bumper and Hood Latch are back on.
I have to stop, unfortunately, due to the heat.
A little more every day (as many kind people, who have done or are doing the same work, have told me).
I spent the afternoon inside (where it's cool) working on the felt for left, rear door garnish molding.
I followed Mike Kubarth's method (stainless steel wire) instead of staples (Ford must have had one h@ll of a stapler in the 30's and 40's to staple the felts to the steel garnish moldings). The wires are twisted inside of the frames, then cut short with the remainder of the twist folded up against the inside of the frame.
If you are working on a 1940 Ford and don't have Mike Kubarth's book "It's Ford for '40" I strongly recommend that you get it. There is a huge amount of detail in it with many photographs.
I test fit the Garnish Molding and was pleased with the result.
One down, three to go...
This message was edited by RAK402 on 8-14-22 @ 5:36 PM
Yeah, I always wondered what kind of tool could punch staples through the steel.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
It wasn't that bad. It probably took me about six hours total (I worked very slowly and carefully).
The felt is now wired to all four window garnish moldings and I think it came out pretty good.
Mike,
Thank you again for the assistance/information!
Also...
When I was working on the driver side molding, I found the wind wing glass was loose and would have fallen out.
Anyone know where to purchase the rubber strip that holds it in?
This message was edited by RAK402 on 8-15-22 @ 2:18 PM
Re-chromed original Rear Bumper Installed with original Bumper Guards and original Wingtips.
I wanted to re-chrome these things when I got the car, but economics did not permit it.
More tomorrow.
The wiring from the Courtesy Lights on the 1940 Ford was completely shot.
I had new wire and bullet connectors, but there is a small rivet in the socket for the light bulb contact-which was crimped to the old wire 82 years ago-no way it was coming off. I ended up soldering a servo mounting eyelet on to the wire (another hobby is RC Helicopters), which was just the right size. The re-wiring of the light sockets was done yesterday and the sockets and overhead wire went in this morning. Everything has cloth covered wiring, even though it cannot be seen.
Also started the windlace on the right side of the car. This side is almost done-the left side should go in tomorrow. I cannot terminate the lower ends of the windlace until the new door sills come in next week (thanks to the people on this forum, I finally know how they should be terminated at the bottom).
Still a very long way to go...
These panels came with the LeBaron Bonney kit. They are sort of pebbled/marbled texture, which I know is incorrect, but no one (that I know of) seems to have the correct panels for sale. I am hoping the color is correct, or at least close.
When I got the car, it did have the correct panels in it (painted black, apparently with a broom by a previous owner-as was the dashboard), but someone had cut large, round holes in them for speakers, rendering them unusable for me even if re-painted.
There are two kinds of insulation behind the Kick Panels to try to reduce road noise.
The Parking Brake Handle should go back in tomorrow...
I will try to get it from the painter.
From the last three days (working on the 1940 Ford Fordor Deluxe Sedan) ...
Parking Brake Handle (now painted Monaida Maroon) re-installed.
The work on the Headliner begins...
The centers of the bows were measured and wrapped with tape so that they can be felt through the sleeves/listing.
The bows were fed threw the sleeves/listing above the headliner.
The listing was trimmed two inches back from the end (it looks like it will require a bit more trimming as I start to pull the headliner tight around the edges).
The headliner with bows was roughly installed in the roof of the car.
The headliner has seven bows. The roof of the car has eight sets of holes for the bows (maybe the 1939 Ford which used the same body had another bow?).
The photo shows the end of the bow hanging from the right side installed in the wrong hole. Looking at photos from when I took the headliner out really helped me correct my error here.
Heat prevented going any further on it today (it is around 100 degrees here almost every day these days).
Kindly, I'd suggest you start a new thread with the issue you are having. This thread is pretty much devoted to the sedan restoration.
I'll help you with your trunk lid fit. Perhaps photos of the upper corners?
It appears to be on a convertible. Correct?
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
Back to the headliner this morning, but I wanted to check something before I went any further...
There has always been a problem with the Rear View Mirror-it was easy to install the left mounting screw, but I could never get the right screw installed. I thought it would be a good idea to make sure I knew where the hole was for the right one before I started tacking the headliner at the front.
There was a good reason why I could never get the screw in the hole-there was no hole in the slightly depressed area in the window frame (as there was on the left side). There is a hole, but no where near in the right place. The mirror bracket was used as a template for where to put the new hole.
I spent the rest of the morning with the headliner. Making sure it is centered, putting the initial tacks (actually, I am using staples) in the extreme back, trimming the listing on the back so that it can be pulled down far enough, etc.
More tacking and pulling tomorrow-long way to go to get in smooth and tight...
Now having to dodge rain (which we need, but the timing is bad as the car is outside and has no rear quarter window in it yet-I have to seal it up with plastic every night.).
I am going very slowly with it. Stapling, pulling, tucking and gluing. There will be a lot of trimming around the edges as well.
The right rear quarter window area is almost done (the rectangular objects in the photo are rare earth magnets to hold it in place until I was sure the contact cement really stuck). There is a bit more fabric to be trimmed above that window, but otherwise it should be finished tomorrow.
I started working on the left rear one also, and worked on the back windows a bit too.
I hope to wrap this up in a few more days.
I have to go back to the armrests and the panels above them next.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
Test fitting the panel that goes above the armrest on the 1940 Ford Fordor Sedan.
I had to make these as the originals were literally crumbling. I used the two originals to make a pattern (there was enough of both there to make one-barely), the used an old Dremel Jig Saw to cut them out.
I formed the first one with hot terrycloth rags (steamed in the microwave oven). That worked ok (I may try a steamer for the second one).
The old arm rest was in pretty good shape, but was unable to staple the new panel to it properly. I soaked the edges in thin CA to stiffen them (which helped). I ended up using screws and blind nuts to hold the panel to the armrest-not as stock as I would like, but more permanent.
The test fitting went well, so out it came again and the fabric was attached.
Then the panel and armrest were re-assembled and installed in the car.
The right, rear quarter window is now permanently installed (with the correct screws).
Note: The wrinkles in the armrest covering will be behind the seat back when the seat is installed (they still bother me though). The original fabric on the armrest did not come back this far.
I now have to repeat the process for the other side. Once that is done, all of the windows will be in and the car will be able to be closed up (except for the antenna hole in the roof).
Got the left rear panel above the arm rest and the armrest covered, assembled and installed.
Left rear quarter window is now installed.
Also go the repro left door sills and lower door seals (front and back) installed and the windlace terminiated correctly at the bottom for the first time since I have owned the car. Thank you to Mike Kubarth and 1940 Tom for explaining how this should be done and providing photographs.
I am a complete amateur at this and would never have gotten anywhere near this far in the process without their help and the help/advice of the people on this forum.
Once the right side sills and seals are done, I will seal the rubber around the quarter windows, and with the exception of the antenna hole, the car can be closed up properly in the event it rains (again).
I have been playing beat the clock (actually calendar) to get it closed up to the elements as it cannot be moved yet (no steering column, steering wheel or instrument panel installed yet).
This message was edited by RAK402 on 9-16-22 @ 1:27 PM
I've been following your thread - LOTS of hard work here. The car looks real nice.
Glad I could help, in some small way.
Have a nice weekend.
Tom
effort.
It made sense to take the cover off of the Hot Water Heater and repaint it now while the dash board is still out.
There is a lot of rust to remove from the inside (from a core leak that was repaired years ago), then it will be re-painted in gray, and the three red stripes added to each side.
I have never been able to find the Stainless Steel Trim pieces for the front of it, so I will have to figure something out for that. The previous owner (prior to my acquiring the car in 1975) removed all of the chrome trim from the dash and the stainless trim from the heater. He then painted the dashboard black (apparently with a broom).
The Dashboard area from two days ago: Instrument cluster suspended from window frame, no cover on heater (being painted), no steering column, and...
Two Days later-Instrument Panel in (but not yet secured), Steering Column in.
I hope to have the panel bolted in permanently by the end of the day.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
Thank you sir! That means a great deal to me, coming from you!
I am extremely grateful for your help, and the help of others on this forum.
It is slow work, but very rewarding.
When I re-assembled it after painting when I was a kid, I just wanted to get it done. This time, I want to get it done to the best of my ability-hopefully it will come out reasonably well.
This message was edited by RAK402 on 9-23-22 @ 4:36 PM
First of all, Thank You to Mike Kubarth for supplying the photos of the dash welt on the other thread-this really helped a lot.
Front window garnish moldings are in along with the double-beaded welt that goes between the dashboard and the garnish moldings, the stainless steel windshield divider is in, and the radio antenna is in.
The welt is not the correct color-technically, I should have painted it Monaida Maroon (the same color as the upper portion of the dashboard), but with it being so hot here, and with the fact that I intend to drive the car quite a bit, I was afraid that the maroon paint would eventually crack and end up looking worse (I have seen this happen when people paint over the welt on the outside of the car-I don't know if it would happen with the welt on the inside).
So the welt is a brownish color (what LeBaron Bonney supplied all those years ago).
And yes, I know the antenna is in the hole for the windshield wiper knob at the moment-it is just parked there temporarily.
Now that the car is fully sealed (with the addition of the antenna) I can finally wash it after about nine weeks.
Windshield Wiper Knob and Linkage Installed (antenna is now sitting the the correct spot (waiting for the radio).
Ammeter is installed in left Ash Tray, Ash Tray Door is installed, as is Electric Fan Switch (under the Dashboard, so it cannot be easily seen), Panel Dimmer rheostat, Headlight Switch, Cigar Lighter Socket (not connected to power), and Cigar Lighter.
Getting ready to install the instrument cluster (it is just sitting, almost in the rectangular hole, in the photograph).
Master craftsman Dennis Poloni made a set of the correct type of washers to mount the cluster-these are not reproduced. I didn't know these existed until joining the Early Ford V-8 Club Forums-Mike Kubarth kindly provided the dimensions on another thread here.
Also to be installed is the Dashboard Brace/Strut. This runs from underneath the window frame down to the Dashboard (just to the right of the Panel Dimmer rheostat). This was missing from my car when I got it (and for the last 47 years). I would never have know this was missing or that it even existed without the book "It's Ford for Forty."
Waiting for a new glove box and some headliner material to line it with.
This message was edited by RAK402 on 9-28-22 @ 11:23 PM
Finally have a spray can of the elusive (at least to me) Zephyr Beige for the Mirror, Visor Brackets, and Assist Strap Brackets.
Also have a replacement door lock being re-keyed.
Picked up new Hub Caps and Beauty Rings at the Early Ford Store in San Dimas
I went out this evening and took photos of the things I missed yesterday.
The now installed Instrument Cluster and the long missing Dashboard Brace. Would never have known that Dashboard Brace existed without the book "It's Ford for Forty."
I walked into The Early Ford Store a few months ago and asked Mike (the owner) about the Dashboard Brace-not only did he know all about it, he had one in stock!
Still working on organizing the wiring behind the Dashboard. After that is done and all the electrical is working properly, the Steering Wheel can go in (technically it could go in now, but it is much easier to work without it).
Still a long way to go, but getting closer...
Freshly painted "Zephyr Beige" parts.
Clockwise from left/top: Robe Cord Ends, Sun Visor Brackets, Rear View Mirror Mounts, Assist Strap Brackets, Rear View Mirror.
Missing is the Bezel for the Courtesy Light Switch-that will be painted today.
This message was edited by RAK402 on 10-1-22 @ 10:22 AM
Rear View Mirror installed (with two screws for the first time ever-Ford did not drill the hole for the right side screw at the factory).
Sun Visors installed as well. It was pretty nerve wracking cutting holes in the new headliner for the screws and the rectangular part of the back of the brackets which house the bent-up ends of the rods and the springs.
I cheated a bit on the vertical bars. Several people posted suggestions regarding how to make them out of stainless steel (some of them brilliant), but I do not have the skills to pull that off and have it look acceptable. In the end, I used repro Glove Box chrome trim strips, cut down. I do know that they are not properly pointed at the top and bottom.
I will continue to look for the correct stainless steel strips, but I will not have to look at the empty holes in the front of the heater for the time being.
The doors will be painted tomorrow...
I ran ground wires for the Heater, Instrument Cluster, Turn Indicator, and High Beam Lamp to a location under the dash. The High Beam Indicator had not worked since I replaced the socket and I suspected a bad ground (it is normally grounded to the panel through the Jewel) due to the very soft, thin metal of the repro socket (it was not tight against the bottom or the dashboard or in the Jewel).
I got the repro Steering Wheel installed-it fit beautifully. Also installed the new Horn Wire and contact, and a new Horn Button.
The Steering Column is now tightened under the Dashboard and the Clamp which holds the base of the Column to the Steering Gearbox has been tightened. This was done last as I thought that I might have to slide the Column vertically on the shaft to make sure that the Coincidental Steering Wheel Lock engaged properly, but it wasn't an issue (showing my lack of knowledge here).
A new Seal has been installed at the base of the Steering Column, along with the plate which covers it.
Finally, I installed the Turn Indicator Switch on the Column.
This message was edited by RAK402 on 10-4-22 @ 2:59 PM
The Heater Cover is now installed, after letting the paint dry for a few days.
The Door Lock is now installed as well. This one took more time, effort, and $$ than it should have...
The spring loaded cover on the original door lock had a broken spring, so you couldn't swing it up and have it stay in place (took two hands to unlock the door). The lock was also sticky sometimes.
I had a spare original lock, which I took to a lock smith to have it re-keyed to match my original lock and ignition key-for some reason he couldn't quite do it. He made a slightly different key which did work in the lock and the ignition, but none of my existing keys would work with newly re-keyed lock.
I also had a new Bob Drake lock, but it had still different keys, so that wouldn't really work.
I ended up watching a bunch of YouTube videos on re-keying locks. I took the key pins from the original lock, put them in the Drake lock (in the correct order) and substituted some of the locking pins from the Drake lock in place of the original locking pins.
Now I have a door lock that works smoothly with my original keys and matches the ignition lock.
Even though it was necessary, I felt like I wasted a lot of time messing with the lock...
Took off the Seat Covers I put on, back when I was in college (late Pre-Cambrian or Early Mesozoic Period). Then took off the original Bedford Cord upholstery, the padding, etch.
Had to hog-ring a few stray springs but everything was in pretty good shape for its age.
20 year old LeBaron Bonney seat cushion upholstery went in pretty well. Big learning curve for me in doing this.
Still trying to work out a few puckers, but I am pretty close now.
One down, three to go...
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
Thank you for all of the assistance (as well as the vast amount of assistance in your book)!
In between a bunch of other stuff I had to do today, I got the Rear Seat Backrest re-upholstered.
It's getting a little easier now. I should be very comfortable doing it after I get the front seat done (and never have to do it again...). ??
The Rear Seat Backrest before and after...
I kind of hate to through the Seat Covers away as my father bought them for me back in the 1970's-they served me well for several decades but they are shot. I am going to save a small scr*p of fabric from them.
The new fabric for the Package Shelf and the Side Pillars (between the doors) is supposed to arrive this Wednesday. I hope to get the Shelf and the Rear Seat installed this week.
If I am very lucky, I will be able to install the Side Pillar covers and also install the Courtesy Lamps and Switch.
This message was edited by RAK402 on 10-9-22 @ 5:11 PM
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
Thank you both for the words of encouragement.
They are greatly appreciated and help me to continue moving forward.
Both the seat covers I installed in the 1970's and the original upholstery were in very sad shape.
The front seat cushion had felt like it was collapsing over the years, but once uncovered, all of the springs were intact. There were some hog rings (that are supposed to align the springs) missing. Once those were replaced the seat springs felt very even and much firmer.
The original upholstery had a thick pad of something resembling straw directly over the springs, then some thick cotton batting with something resembling gauze over the top (all the seats were this way).
So far, this was the most difficult of the seat cushions to cover (the LeBaron Bonney covers were extremely tight around the base of the seat). From wah I have read, the Front Seat Backrest will be much more difficult (we will find out).
Below are photos of the seat prior to being taken apart, then the seat cushion with new burlap, then the finished/covered seat cushion.
The backrest is next, but the welds for the upper braces of the side shields are broken, so those will have to be repaired first.
This message was edited by trjford8 on 10-12-22 @ 7:54 AM
Photos below are of the recovered Package Tray with Welt-Ready for Installation and Installed.
I also want to publicly thank Dave Trank of Cartouche Upholstery for finding very, very close matches for the fabric on the Package Tray and the Side Pillar Cover. He really went out of his way match these fabrics from samples that he had me send to him (from my 20 year old LeBaron Bonney Upholstery kit).
He also made the welt for the tray for me. He is very, very decent to work with, is very knowledgeable, and responds very rapidly.
I got the Rear Seat Belts installed also, and will be wrestling the Rear Sear Back Rest into place this afternoon (hopefully).
This message was edited by RAK402 on 10-12-22 @ 1:04 PM
Installed Seat Belts (another promise to my father long ago).
Installed the Back Rest.
Installed the curved metal panels at the ends of the seat riser.
Installed the strip of carpet on the seat riser.
Got the back seat in but lacked the energy to snap it in place...
Plastic bags were a suggestion from trjford8. He suggested it for pulling the upholstery down onto the front seat back (which I will definitely do), but I used it here to reduce friction when sliding the upholstery in-it helped a very great deal.
This message was edited by RAK402 on 10-12-22 @ 5:34 PM
I removed the back from the repro glove box, covered the inside with headliner material, and installed a brass grommet in it for the clock wire.
I then installed the glove box door (I had already installed the Chrome Trim Strips on it.
I had to repair the Clock Wire, then installed and connected it.
The radio was test fitted and the rubber gasket for the speaker was tack-glued on with it installed (I wasn't sure where to mount if vertically). The radio was then removed and the gasket permanently attached with contact cement.
When I went to install the new Radio Grill, I found that it had six mounting posts instead of the stock four-there are only four mounting holes in the dashboard, so the two "extra" posts were cut off and the area where they had been was ground flat. The photo below shows the original Ford Radio Grille and the repro from the back (showing the additional post).
The Radio Grille was then installed.
Started out by installing the clock. The clock is not stock (I do still have the stock clock). I found this one in C.W. Moss about 20 years ago-it has a quartz crystal mechanism substituted for the original hand wound one.
I re-painted the bracket that retains the clock "Briarwood Brown" which I think is the correct color for it-my lovely wife said the paint was a perfect match for the paint on the inside of the bracket. In looking at the photographs tonight, I realize I made a big error-I need to take the clock out again, take it apart, and paint the back the correct color to match the bracket).
In installing the clock, I noticed that I had left the glove box door striker plate installed while it was being painted. In looking for information on the clock in the book "It's Ford for Forty." I realized that the striker plate should not be painted. I took it off and removed the paint. When the bracket was off, I found original Rose Sand Metallic paint underneath. Mike Kubarth did an outstanding job of matching the original Dashboard Paint!
The striker plate was then re-installed and the glove box is now finished.
The stock Philco radio was next.
The dashboard area is now complete.
This message was edited by RAK402 on 10-15-22 @ 1:28 PM
Short day today...
Finished Pillar Cover installation on both sides of car, tested courtesy lamps.
Upholstery is done except for the front seat (which has to go to the welder this week).
This message was edited by RAK402 on 10-15-22 @ 1:39 PM
This, above anything else I'd ever attempted, will restore the comfort of the seat.
Kind of a pain in the butt to do but well worth the effort in my opinion.
Each of my restorations received this operation.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
I have already covered the seat cushion for the front, but I suppose I could slit the burlap covering the springs from the bottom, put some in carpet padding foam in, and recover each coil separately?
Thank you sir! I should have done this decades ago, but I really couldn't do it without being retired-it would have taken years.
After a two day struggle (and a new switch) the turn indicators are working!
Cleaned and lubed the air cleaner.
Started the engine for the first time in three months (less three days). The carburetor bowl was bone dry after sitting, but it ran well.
Took time out for a brief radio/transmitter test. Stock 1940 Ford Philco radio tuned to a transmitter in the glove box. Music is from Artie Shaw (from 1940 of course).
https://youtu.be/whvMtvayKfs
Can you receive satellite radio (Sirius/XM) on your Philco radio?
If so, tune to their "40's Junction" channel. You'll get all the '40s music you'll need while driving your beautiful car.
Artie Shaw's "Begin the Beguine" is one of my favorites. But nothing beats Glenn Miller's "Moonlight Serenade".
The car looks terrific!
Tom
Thank you very much.
I can get Sirius FM on my phone and listen to 40's Junction all the time-most of the time I have been working on the car it is on.
Before I took the car apart, I did have the phone connected and I have listened to 40's Junction while driving it (it does work)!
Continued success with the car.
Tom
Thank you again sir!
Another long day on the Ford... (and it doesn't look like I accomplished much)...
Took each wheel off, cleaned the 40+ year old white walls as best I could (a friend has a bottle of Bleche White for me-that should help a lot), cleaned the wheels, installed the Beauty Rings, re-installed the wheels, did a minor brake adjustment, topped off the Master Cylinder, and installed the new Hub Caps.
After that, I started working on fitting the Fender Skirts properly (I am now convinced, sadly, that they are not stock Ford but aftermarket as I have found out since they attach differently than stock (information in the book "It's Ford for Forty"). These must have been on someone's Ford as some point, as they were Folkstone Gray when I got them.
I re-installed the rubber strip that keeps them from rubbing the fender (it was installed backwards), and started fitting and straightening (over and over). The right one needs to come off again, but is fairly close now.
Trying to do this without scratching the paint (on the Fender and the Skirt).
I re-fitted the skirts-the fit quite a bit better now, but I am still not happy with them.
My armrests were ok-the panels above them were disintegrating. Between the two I was able to trace them onto door panel cardboard to make new ones. The first one I tried to curve with scalding hot rags-it worked but too quite a while. The second one I formed with a steamer and had it done in about a half an hour.
I could not get staples to hold the panels to the armrests-I don't know if this was due to the type of staples I was using, the old cardboard of the armrests, or some combination of the two. I used blind nuts (T-nuts) and bolts to hold the panels to the armrests (they are hidden when the armrest and panel are in place).
If so you might be able to fiberglass them to reinforce them so that they would be useable.
I also found that thin CA-the type that flow in through capillary action like Zap, works very well to stiffen the old cardboard. It makes it very hard, almost like cement.
New Benton Gray Front Floor Mat installed...
Rear Carpets are in, as well as Seat Belts.
I will be dealing with the errant Trunk Latch tomorrow (removing the Back Seat and reaching in to try to raise the pawl on the latch with a long screwdriver or pry bar).
I am glad the Spare Tire had not been stowed, or this would be impossible.
The only other fly in the ointment is that I am not pleased with my own workmanship on the Front Seat Backrest (it is uneven across the top). I will try to work that out later as it is raining hear again and I have to get it finished enough to get it into the garage (and drive it a bit).
I intend to test drive it tomorrow or Saturday.
This message was edited by RAK402 on 11-3-22 @ 8:35 PM
Took the 1940 Ford out, gassed it up, took my lovely wife on a picnic, then drove it on the freeway a bit (got up to about 60 mph!).
It ran well and we had a nice day.
The Robe Cord and the Assist Straps have been shipped by Cartouche and should be here this week. Now down to detailing the engine compartment.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
Both I, and other members, have followed and contributed to this lengthy (and interesting) thread. Do you think compiling it all, and obtaining some more history of the car, would make for an interesting V8 Times article?
Tom
I have owned it since May of 1975 when it was fairly messed up (battleship gray paint-glossy on one side, flat on the other, instrument panel painted black-apparently with a broom, and in very tired but drivable condition).
This message was edited by RAK402 on 11-6-22 @ 5:41 PM
They look very good go me.
They put new fabric loops (to match my Windlace) on my original, repainted Brackets.
I hope to install them later in the week after the rain stops.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115591317384?epid=915160370&hash=item1ae9c78788:g:bkoAAOSwLfxjZH95&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoHnFms1yt6obVEft9pqh5pF0tsDxungg28v%2BNRNCFtR7YDZgIBL6VHZ3l7qJaHVaKJ7fmiUw%2FfBcE51B%2F0dRPZTgPu9tbmGnfGvQRjzZYdBXpsl78EIOSof7LHtWlNtRciRJrCm3SRzoKAhnbdwCBAvDkdcb2L%2Bbed%2BLkHgWtAGGPpnkLu2HimDTcP7u5j21YaVL59tyCYXYbC3zKABEdek%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9quyZyLYQ
Also, I always wondered how close the wood-graining on the window garnish moldings of my 1940 Fordor Deluxe were-I had nothing to compare them to.
Last week, a friend gave me an original 1940 Ford Deluxe Ashtray with most of the original woodgraining in tact.
I think Bob Kennedy, (who did the woodgraining) did an excellent job!