Topic: Brake Job;


fortyford    -- 04-21-2022 @ 5:06 PM
  Can someone please tell me if these shoes are on correctly?I am thinking no!This is the rear on drivers side.

This message was edited by fortyford on 4-21-22 @ 6:58 PM


zeke3    -- 04-21-2022 @ 7:00 PM
  Looks wrong to me too, the shoe with the longer material should be on the front for the Lockheed style brakes. The larger diameter of the wheel cylinder should also be towards the front.


fortyford    -- 04-21-2022 @ 7:25 PM
  My rear brakes kept getting tighter as I drove.I barley made it back to the house and they were very hot.I am in process of changing a new wheel cylinder because it started leaking.Just wondering if the heat would have caused the new cylinder to fail?I had a very reputable mechanic to do this complete brake job on my car and I am very disgusted.


carcrazy    -- 04-21-2022 @ 9:30 PM
  If the brake was getting way too hot the brake shoes may have been adjusted so that they were always dragging on the drum causing excess friction and heat.

The brake fluid leaking out of the wheel cylinder gets on the brake lining and can cause it to stick to the drum which makes the brakes seem even tighter.


40 Coupe    -- 04-22-2022 @ 5:27 AM
  If you find the brakes are not dragging much when cold and they tighten up after driving and warming up. The problem may be with the master cylinder. Do not change it out, come back and post again first. There are adjustments that effect the master cylinder.


fortyford    -- 04-22-2022 @ 5:42 AM
  This mechanic actually added more to master cylinder rod trying to get more brake pedal!Have you ever heard of such a thing?I started from ground zero and replaced the rod and master cylinder and I know I have the adjustment correct at master cylinder now.


sarahcecelia    -- 04-22-2022 @ 4:17 PM
  As an old time mechanic in the 1960's, I learned that brake shoes DON'T have to be thrown away and replaced when they get brake fluid on them! I did many , many, brake jobs in my time, and I honed and rebuilt wheel cylinders- and if any shoes had fluid on them; I washed the thoroughly with GASOLINE- and never ever had a so called; "Come back!" Saying that they have to be thrown away- IS AN "OLD WIVES TAIL!!" and a waste of money- and I was the top mechanic at a VW dealership; REBUILDING generators and starters, doing clutch replacements, replacing king pins, rebuilding carburetors, rebuilding transaxles- (they had a rear end and trans in one unit), rebuilding motors, doing valve jobs; (#3 exhaust was always the culprit, because it was the one nearest the front of the motor(toward the cars front) on the drivers side; thus it was the farthest from the cooling fan.) I did it all! In those days you rebuilt things; you didn't go to the auto supply and buy a rebuilt, the parts department had every item that you needed to get the job done; and I did it.

Regards, Steve Lee


40 Coupe    -- 04-23-2022 @ 5:49 AM
  After changing the master cylinder and it's push rod, make sure the brake and clutch pedal bumpers are installed plus both of the pedal return springs. then adjust the master cylinder push rod for the proper clearance with the floor board installed.


rustedorrotting    -- 08-03-2022 @ 10:29 AM
  I also was an auto mechanic in the 70's. I just moved to California to a Fiat dealership. One of the mechanics lost a shift detent on a transmission he was rebuilding. It was 6 months to get one from Fiat, so i took the other detent, being the same dimensions, and made a detent out of the shank portion of a 5/16 bolt. All that was left to do was cut a groove down the length for lubrication which i accomplished with a hack saw by hand, and round the ends. Took me about an hour. I came from Michigan where a tune up consisted of replacing just what was needed to make it run again. The mechanics i worked with in California were parts replacers for the most part


37RAGTOPMAN    -- 08-03-2022 @ 12:35 PM
  on the master cylinder you need to have free play, about 3/8 of a inch before the piston moves in the master,
otherwise you will build up pressure and the brakes will not release pressure and cause hot brakes,
just a thought,
are those brake sure repros ?
if they are get a set of originals, compare them,
in the FORD V8 TIME, there was a article on the repro brake shoes,
hope this helps 37Ragtopman


EFV-8 Club Forum : https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum
Topic: https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=14&Topic=15615