Topic: Funny looking distributor


o2bnkc    -- 03-24-2021 @ 4:16 PM
  This is in my new 1940 Deluxe. Why is the top different than anything else I've seen?


A Proud Navy Vet


alanwoodieman    -- 03-24-2021 @ 4:35 PM
  back 20/30 years ago when nobody would rebuild a 40 coil this was concocted to use a modern coil-ran one of these for years, now with Skip's rebuilt original coils that is all I use. do you have an original brown coil to send to him? PM me if you don't. Also buy the weather boots that go on the spark plug wires to keep moisture out of distributor. where are you?

USND Mine Sweeper Special (MSS 1) Navy Vet and also Proud of it.


ford38v8    -- 03-24-2021 @ 11:44 PM
  Those adapters are still being used by some Newbys and even by some more experienced V8ers, but I got to tell ya, for a true blue Ford Freak to see one at a car show, it hurts his eyes like seeing a Brand X engine in a Ford.

Alan


o2bnkc    -- 03-28-2021 @ 2:52 AM
  Thanks guys. I know what you mean, ford38v8. That's why I made sure it had a flathead in it, even though I know next to nothing about these engines. I like originality. I purchased an original style coil and plug wire cap seals from a place called C & G Ford Parts. I don't know the good vendors from the bad ones since I'm a newby at these flatheads. I got the condenser from NAPA. Do I need anything else to go back to the original style?

A Proud Navy Vet

This message was edited by o2bnkc on 3-28-21 @ 3:00 AM


ford38v8    -- 03-28-2021 @ 7:15 AM
  You did good by doing business with C&G, but what you bought may not have been a good idea. alanwoodieman advised you correctly, call C&G to see if their coil is from Skip Haney, and return it if not. You gotta trust us Navy Vets! MCB 11 ; ACB 1

Alan


kubes40    -- 03-28-2021 @ 9:18 AM
  Alan advised you wisely... if that isn't a Haney coil, return it.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth


TomO    -- 03-28-2021 @ 12:59 PM
  You have a very nice car there. It looks like it has the correct engine that needs a Skip rebuilt coil. When you change to the correct coil, you will have to check that the ignition resister is connected and working. Failure to do so will result in the new coils failing. They are not designed for 6 volts.

Tom


o2bnkc    -- 03-28-2021 @ 5:29 PM
  Ignition resistor?

A Proud Navy Vet


o2bnkc    -- 03-28-2021 @ 5:32 PM
  Who is Skip Haney?

A Proud Navy Vet


ford38v8    -- 03-28-2021 @ 11:54 PM
  Your modern coil likely has a built in resister, so the circuit has bypassed the stock resister located high up inside firewall above the steering column. It is on a fiberboard panel next to the lighting circuit breaker. Ignition power goes from switch through the resister, then to the coil. The resister drops about 2 volts, protecting the coil and the points. A straight 6 volts will drastically shorten the life of both.

Skip Haney can be found here:

Skip Haney www.fordcollector.com
Remanufactured coils and high volume modified water pumps for flatheads


Alan


o2bnkc    -- 03-29-2021 @ 10:18 PM
  Thanks Alan.

A Proud Navy Vet


o2bnkc    -- 04-04-2021 @ 6:42 PM
  I tested 6 volts at the coil. This is too much?

A Proud Navy Vet


ford38v8    -- 04-04-2021 @ 10:39 PM
  6 volts for the coil you now have, as it has an internal resistor. An original coil for a ‘40 has no resister, so it is located on the firewall. When you have a Skip Haney coil, a test may be made with the points closed, which will show about 3 1/2 volts. An open circuit will show the full 6 volts.

Alan


ford38v8    -- 04-04-2021 @ 11:37 PM
  OK, we need to pull all this together now. You've posted your picture of the aftermarket coil adapter, you've said you have a new coil coming from C&G, you ask about resistors, and we out here are a bit confused as to exactly what you have installed currently. Our advice is only as good as our understanding of what you are working with. Please update us with currently installed equipment and currently experienced problem.

Alan


o2bnkc    -- 04-05-2021 @ 10:11 AM
  Ok, here's what I did. First I ordered the same setup as is on there now. The adapter kit with the remote coil. I installed the new remote coil and the new condenser. It still didn't fire up. I replaced the sooty plugs and it fired right up. I took it for a short spin. After about 15 minutes of cruising around town it did the same thing. Sputtered and died. It did this for a few times and finally it wouldn't start at all. My friend came down and we towed it home. I finally got it started, but I had to hold the choke out to keep it running. I usually don't even need the choke to fire it up. When I pulled one of the plugs to see if I was getting a good spark, (I was) it seemed pretty black for a plug that had just a couple of miles on it. It fired right up this morning. I have the original style (new) coil that is sitting on my bench. I was going to use this as a backup. I haven't checked the points yet. Do I have to do anything special before I pull the distributor off and check them? Do I have to do anything special before I put the distributor back on? Another thing. I bought the car in Los Angeles, but I live at 5500 ft. Could it be the carb setup? Thanks. For some reason I have this going on two discussions here. Sorry about that.

A Proud Navy Vet


alanwoodieman    -- 04-05-2021 @ 1:29 PM
  your carb float is stuck or your power valve is leaking, take the carb off , put it on a block of wood with a paper towel underneath, then fill carb full of gas thru the vent hole-watch to see if gas leaks out.


o2bnkc    -- 04-05-2021 @ 2:02 PM
  I found the resister on the firewall, but I don't see any wires going to it. My coil has 6.37 volts going to it with the key on.

A Proud Navy Vet

This message was edited by o2bnkc on 4-5-21 @ 2:19 PM


ford38v8    -- 04-05-2021 @ 5:21 PM
  Your coil adapter conversion looks funny, agreed, but as you have replaced both coil and condenser without improvement, let's move on to fuel supply for the moment. Sooty plugs can indicate a rich mixture, but you've had to use the choke to keep it running at times, which shows the opposite. Two opposite conditions, and maybe some trial and error solutions gone sour!
Start from scratch on fuel:
Check your gas cap for venting. You may create a vacuum in the tank that prevents fuel flow. If not sure, just leave off the cap altogether and see if the issue continues as before.
Next, what sort of fuel filter do you have? If a glass bowl as part of the carburetor, that's all you need. Additional filters may restrict flow. Open the fuel pump to check for debris that can clog the check valves. This entails removing the top and looking inside. Replace the top, carefully preserving the gasket, and snug the screws without excessive torque. If a glass bowl filter, that cork gasket is critical also, must be wetted with oil to soften, and gently tighten the bale to prevent air intrusion.
There will usually be a couple of tiny pieces of debris, but not much more. Lots of debris indicates rusty fuel tank. A tank with less than 1/4 full will have a tendency to offer up debris from the bottom. Top it off for a temporary solution if that's the case. You may blow air through the line back to the tank to dislodge debris within the line.
While on fuel pump, replace the flex line leading to the pump. It may look good on the outside, but deteriorated on the inside. Get a fuel resistant flex line from Bob Shewman, who advertises in the V8 Times. Get the one with no check valve.
Check fuel delivery from the pump by removing the line to the carburetor, directing flow to a Qt bottle, ignition OFF, crank the engine: You should get a good strong stream/off/stream/off... into the bottle.

Enough for now, do nothing anywhere else, as to do so may confuse the issue with differing symptoms.


Alan


TomO    -- 04-06-2021 @ 7:28 AM
  Let's start over.

Have you checked the spark for about 1/2" of blue spark at idle when the engine is at operating temperature? if you have good spark, you might have some debris in the fuel tank. Check your fuel delivery. Use the procedure below as it will show most deficiencies in fuel delivery.

To check fuel delivery, you need a graduated 16 ounce or larger container to determine the amount of fuel delivered in a measured time. Disconnect the fuel pump line from the carburetor and direct it into a graduated container. Crank the engine long enough to get 2 ounces of gas in the container and then continue cranking for 15 more strokes of the pump. The pump should have delivered 6 more ounces of gas.

If you don't get the additional 6 ounces of fuel, the most likely cause is the flex line, followed by the line from the tank, plugged pickup in the tank or weak fuel pump.

If the car passes these tests in the driveway, then take it out for short drives around the neighborhood. If it acts up, pull out the choke half way to see if it improves. If it does improve, you probably have debris in the tank.

If it does not improve, check the spark while the car has the problem and also operate the accelerator linkage while looking down the throat of the carburetor to see if you get 2 strong streams of fuel from the accelerator nozzles. One of these tests should point you in the correct direction.

Tom


o2bnkc    -- 04-06-2021 @ 4:21 PM
  Thanks for all your replies. This discussion has morphed into two threads on here. I am going to keep it on the other thread under "Car is running rough". Please go there and school me. I need the advice. Thanks.


A Proud Navy Vet

This message was edited by o2bnkc on 4-6-21 @ 4:22 PM


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