| kenburke | -- 06-05-2010 @ 9:55 AM |
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My wires for the horn relay have eye lets for ends. The wires I am sure are not original. The relay has bayonet style ends for the frame rail wires. So what is the correct installation. Cannot find a detailed schematic. Not a whole lot of info in Bootle. Thanks!
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| kubes40 | -- 06-05-2010 @ 6:07 PM |
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Hi Ken, The relay was in fact originally soldered to the wire harness. It sounds as if you have the correct 'eyelets' as you term them on your harness. I will send you a good color photograph of the relay properly soldered to the harness. Hope this helps! Mike Kubarth
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| supereal | -- 06-06-2010 @ 2:47 PM |
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Ken: The wire from the relay to the horns is yellow and green. The power wire is also yellow and green, and is connected to the battery feed at the starter solenoid. The wire to the horn button, which "finds" ground to activate the relay is blue and yellow. When the button is pushed, it pulls the relay and energizes the horns. We don't have the '40 book, but I assume it contains a wiring diagram. If not, I have one.
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| kenburke | -- 06-06-2010 @ 3:05 PM |
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Thanks Mike & Supereal. Bootle (40 restoration book) does reference pages 217 & 220,for the horns, in the Chassis parts & price list, which is good, but no wiring diagram. I did find the 40 wire schematic in my 39-40 Shop Manual ( forgot to look there). But hey guys, everything helps. All I need now is longer arms for my soldering gun. Again Thanks All. Ken
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| TomO | -- 06-07-2010 @ 7:11 AM |
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Ken, it is easier to solder the horn relay connections before the horns and relay are installed. Tom
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-07-2010 @ 8:16 PM |
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Ken, Tom's suggestion may sound off the wall, but in actuality, the relays came already attached (soldered) to the harnesses when first installed on the assembly lines. Alan
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| kenburke | -- 06-10-2010 @ 5:41 PM |
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Hi Tom & Alan, Well I was sort of joking. I was going to take my horns out, clean them up a little and then replace the reproduction relay with the correct one. I still will be face down on the fender, waiting to fall in. Alan, does this means the headlight high beam switch was also soldered prior to the installation of the harness wire. Is there anything else that needs soldering as well?
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| kubes40 | -- 06-10-2010 @ 7:34 PM |
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Ken, The hi / lo beam switch is soldered too. That's it. When I restore a car I tend to solder all the butt connections that I am reasonably certain will not have to come apart in the near future. Makes for much better connections. I do this beneath the original rubber insulators.
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-10-2010 @ 8:25 PM |
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The same goes for everything else, too. Many connectors, including the spark plug wires, are only crimped when you get them. Also, any connections under screws or bolts should have dialectric grease to prevent oxidation. Alan
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| TomO | -- 06-11-2010 @ 9:41 AM |
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Di-electric grease is an insulator. Use a corrosion inhibiting grease or Vaseline on your connections. I prefer the corrosion inhibiting grease as it is more stable at higher temperatures. Tom
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