| sarahcecelia | -- 10-17-2019 @ 8:07 AM |
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I Flushed the system with Thermo cure, installed a new radiator, new 50/50 coolant, and ran the motor 20 minutes with radiator cap off to purge any air in the system. my Electric heat reader gun says 180 at top tank, 170's at top of core, 150's at bottom of core. I Looked in radiator and water is flowing from the cylinder head to the top tank "mainstream." Gauge reads (1) needle width before hot. I have (4) NOS sender bulbs, and tried them all. Nothing changed!! I Called Ray Marler, about 84 years old, who was Ford mechanic since he was 15 or 16 years old. He said, though the bulbs I have are NOS, they are old and thus No Good!! What are guys with this problem doing?? I hear that the "re-pop" senders are no good either!! Can I put a resistor in the line to make it read lower on the gauge? installed Regards, Steve Lee This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 10-18-19 @ 6:04 AM
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| carcrazy | -- 10-17-2019 @ 3:18 PM |
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The way I get around the problem of an original temperature gauge that won't read correctly is to install an aftermarket mechanical temperature gauge in a small separate panel beneath the instrument panel. The gauge I used was a backlit Stewart Warner 2 1/16" gauge. The temperature range on the gauge goes from 100 to 265 degrees F. Before ordering determine which of the available capillary tube lengths is correct for your application. The tubes are available in 48", 60", and 72" lengths. The gauges cost about $70 and are available from Speedway Motors and other vendors.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 10-19-2019 @ 5:10 PM |
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N0t in my '40!; that has won the Dearborn Award, and the Antique Auto Club of America. I just can't do it ! It reads right near hot when it's just 180 degrees, so I'll know that it is not really hot and live with it! Regards, Steve Lee
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