Post to the EFV-8 Forum
Post Classified Ads
Shop the Online Store

User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Soft brakes

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: Soft brakes -- page: 1 2 3

Dustbowl

02-05-2016 @ 3:48 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 74
Joined: Feb 2011

I have done much work on the hydraulic brakes (1939 Ford version) in my 1936 Ford. This includes rebuilding the master cylinder. The brakes stop the car all right but:
- the pedal seems "soft", like air in the system, and
- the stopping distance seems too long, and
- even when pushing hard on the pedal, I cannot lock the brakes (and cause wheels to slide)

Suspecting air, I have done extensive bleeding of the brakes by pumping (using the brake pedal) at least one quart of brake fluid or more through each wheel.

My questions for you:

-If you best guess is air, what can I do to remove it?
-what other faults in my braking system might cause the problem I describe above?
-what other tests might I make to identify the problem? (For example I have thought of installing a pressure gauge in the hydraulic lines to see if I get enough pressure. If I do, what should be the correct pressure?)

Any thoughts or advice will be greatly appreciated.
Phillip

CharlieStephens

02-05-2016 @ 4:56 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 877
Joined: Oct 2009

Are you using DOT 5 fluid? How about a detailed step by step of how you are bleeding the brakes?

Charlie Stephens

Dustbowl

02-05-2016 @ 5:30 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 74
Joined: Feb 2011

These are my answers Charles:
-I am using DOT 3, not 5.
-To bleed, I attach a plastic tube to the brake nipple and ensure it is not leaking or sucking in air
-tube sticks in container submerged in brake fluid
-keep adding fluid into master cylinder to ensure level does not get low.
-open the nipple
-pump brakes until I am sure no bubbles coming through and then pump another pint or more through.
=close nipple when tube is still full of fluid
-repeat on each wheel.
-when finished, I double check for leaks.
I have tried using a "Power" system but don't have a good connector from power tube to master cylinder which does not leak.
What do you think?

TomO

02-05-2016 @ 8:11 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009

You might still have air in the system. I would start with the 2 man brake bleed. Have one man press the pedal while the other opens the bleeder, hold the pedal to the floor and close the bleeder. You should be able to clear all of the air at a wheel with 4 openings. If you cannot accomplish this, try bench bleeding the master cylinder.

You may have to recheck the honing of the master cylinder

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 2-5-16 @ 8:14 PM

MICHV8

02-06-2016 @ 3:19 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 405
Joined: Jul 2010

just like with home plumbing, start with the longest line (usually the passenger rear) and continue toward the shortest. Does the pedal maintain pressure? If not, the piston is moving through the bore...

39 Ken

02-06-2016 @ 5:25 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Oct 2009

The problem could be improper adjustment; not enough surface contact between the shoes and the brake drum. Assuming new shoes, the long shoes need to be on the front of each wheel, and the short shoe to the rear of each wheel.
Here is a link to the proper adjustment of the Lockheed brakes.
http://www.flatheadv8.org/rumblest/brakes.pdf

40 Coupe

02-06-2016 @ 6:42 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1644
Joined: Oct 2009

If you have not done the basic mechanical adjustment at each wheel, I suggest you do that first before bleeding. You can do the mechanical adjustment again after bleeding. Why do you have to bleed the brakes what work have you done to warrant this?

mrtexas

02-06-2016 @ 7:01 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 68
Joined: Dec 2011

Good pedal is impossible without proper shoe adjustment. Have the shoes been arced to the drums?

ford38v8

02-06-2016 @ 4:10 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 2734
Joined: Oct 2009

Previous advice is all good, however, due to environmental regulations, the excellent properties of the old asbestos shoes are no longer available from automotive sources. The modern replacement material contains a large percentage of brass chips to slow the wearing of the asbestos. This is true of shoes and also of disc pads, and explains some brake squeals and chirps. A Google search may reveal an Industrial Friction Products company with the ability to apply the old product to your shoes.

Alan

shogun1940

02-07-2016 @ 10:07 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 464
Joined: Feb 2010

Have you checked the rubber hoses tha could be expanding and not breaking

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2 3

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions