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Discussion Topic: Hard starting '36
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Flatbob |
04-13-2012 @ 10:02 AM
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New Member
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TomO, thanks for the advice, will try what you suggested & let you know the results. Bob
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supereal |
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04-13-2012 @ 11:04 AM
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New Member
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If it is an original Ford coil, the chances that it is weak are about 99%. The only test that can be done that is definitive is the resistance of the windings. The primary, measured between the terminal that goes to the resistor should show .47 to .51 ohms. The secondary, measured from the same input terminal to the high voltage terminal should read 12,000 to 17,000 ohms. As the two windings are joined at the input terminal, it isn't possible to test for a short between the windings. As I have noted over the years, if you have an original coil, it is time to have it rebuilt or replaced, without exception. In most cases, the difference in starting and operation will be amazing. "Coil testers" are mostly worthless, and even more so, if the coil is not highly heated prior to examination
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Flatbob |
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04-13-2012 @ 2:02 PM
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New Member
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TomO & Super, I get 6.47V on freshly charged battery, 6.47V across terminals at ignition switch & 2.55V at coil. TomO suggested I should have around 3.26V at the coil; can I draw any conclusions from what I have found?
Super, am not sure if it's the original coil or not. The guy that I sent it to told me he had it on his machine and it "looked good" and it fired up immediately when I installed it but that was 10 years ago. Maybe the best thing to do would be to send it to Skip Haney? Thanks for the help. Bob
This message was edited by Flatbob on 4-13-12 @ 2:03 PM
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TomO |
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04-14-2012 @ 8:22 AM
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You are dropping more voltage across the ballast resistor than normal. This could be due to extra resistance at the connections at the ballast resistor or a more current due to a defective coil.
Measure the resistance across the resistor, it should read a maximum of 1.4 ohms.
If you have a Ford Script coil, remove it, and check the area on the bottom. If it has numbers or initials scratched into the phenolic, it was rebuilt by either Skip Haney or Jack Fletcher. If not, have your coil rebuilt.
Tom
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supereal |
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04-14-2012 @ 11:12 AM
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New Member
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It might also have been rebuilt by A&S. I have one of those on my '47, and it works fine. Check the voltage to ground with the input wire from the resistor off the coil. You should read battery voltage. With the coil connected, and one of the sets of points closed, about 3.5 volts. Connect your ohmeter between the wire to the distributor and ground and turn the engine over while you watch the needle. You should see the needle swing over and stay as long as at least one of the point sets is closed. If not, the points are at fault. Voltage is the product of current times resistance, so an increase in resistance or a decrease in current will drop the voltage. Coils present more than just resistance, called reactance, so a simple test for ohms may not tell the story. I'd bet that any Ford coil over 10 years old is weak. I've seen too many to be persuaded otherwise.
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Flatbob |
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04-14-2012 @ 1:07 PM
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New Member
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Am getting battery voltage at the coil wire when I disconnect the wire from the coil. The coil is original as it has the FORD script on top but have not removed it yet to check bottom side. If I understand TomO, I set my multimeter at 20K and with wires removed from coil terminal I measured .01 which seems remarkably low so wonder if I'm doing it correctly.
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supereal |
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04-14-2012 @ 1:15 PM
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New Member
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If you check the primary, use the 1X scale. The secondary would use the 20X. An ohmeter will only tell you if the winding is open. Old coils have a waxed paper insulation which disintegrates over time, allowing arcing between windings. A new coil from a vendor such as C&G is less than $100. Buy one, and have your present coil rebuilt to keep as a spare. You won't be sorry.
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Flatbob |
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04-14-2012 @ 1:21 PM
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New Member
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Joined: Oct 2009
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I'll call Kyle at C&G Monday and get a new coil. Thanks for the help. Bob
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TomO |
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04-15-2012 @ 8:50 AM
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New Member
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The 1.3 ohm reading must be made on the Rx1 scale.
IMHO you would be much better off sending your coil to Skip Haney for rebuilding than spending money for an aftermaket coil.
I just went to the online catalog and C & G wants $120 for a rebuilt coil, when you send them your core. Skip wants $83 to rebuild your coil. He usually gets them done pretty fast.
http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm
Tom
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Robert/Texas |
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04-16-2012 @ 8:57 AM
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New Member
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I recently had a problem with my '34 roadster ('36 engine). I concentrated mostly on electrics as I had left the ignition for about 5 days. After replacing points, condensor, coil, resistor and rechecking everything time and again, I replaced the plug wires including the coil wire. The car has been running great since doing this and starts instantly. It might have been only the coil wire that was defective.
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