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Discussion Topic: Hard starting '36
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TomO |
04-09-2012 @ 7:08 AM
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New Member
Posts: 2304
Joined: Oct 2009
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Your fuel line is probably plugged with the debris. Do like TRJ said, then look closely at the debris. It could just be welding slag left over from the manufacturing process. If you do see rust flakes, replace the line again. Order the line from Roy Nacewicz as the lines from other vendors may not have the copper coating on the inside.
Tom
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Flatbob |
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04-09-2012 @ 7:11 PM
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Great suggestions on the fuel line & will follow up. Replaced the condenser; it wasn't the problem. Fuel line & carb. next; will see if I'm getting good spark at the plugs also. Thanks for the help/.
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supereal |
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04-09-2012 @ 8:49 PM
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Be sure of what is in your gas tank. There is an epidemic of contaminated gas, particularly with alcohol. It has a problem with "phase separation" when moisture forms a layer in the tank after sitting for a time. It looks like gas, and smells like gas, but will not vaporize enough to allow the engine to run. We have two of these already this year.
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drkbp |
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04-10-2012 @ 6:40 AM
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Flatbob,
Be sure the needle valve brass fitting is clear where the fuel line goes into the 97. Just take the fuel line off, unscrew the fitting from the carb and blow it out. You should clear the fuel line from inline filter to carb intake also.
Ken in Texas
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Flatbob |
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04-12-2012 @ 1:52 PM
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Am getting fuel to the carb but still won't start. Getting spark to all the plugs but to me it appears very weak; on the order of what static electricity looks like. Is this what would be expected from a 6V system? I have replaced the condenser. I can't even get starter fluid to ignite. Would running a wire from the battery neg. post directly to the coil be helpful in diagnosing this problem?
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deuce_roadster |
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04-12-2012 @ 2:54 PM
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Thoght we were just looking for debris source. Take the entire distrb with coil to someone who can check it on a machine. I didn't see where you had a rebuilt coil but that is a must. Get that whole assembly set up correctly and you should have more then a static electricity sized spark! 6 volts is just fine when everything is as it should be.
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Flatbob |
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04-12-2012 @ 3:48 PM
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The dizzy & coil was gone through & set up on a machine years ago during restoration; as I said the car only has 288 miles on it, could it have gone bad with so few miles on it? Debris doesn't seem to be the issue, as someone suggested I ran another fuel line to a gas can with fresh fuel and got same results.
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Stroker |
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04-12-2012 @ 4:06 PM
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The above advice is good. You should have a big, fat blue spark. The only difference between
a 6 volt spark and a 12 volt spark is the ratio of turns between the primary and secondary side of the coil.
What makes a "decent" spark is to have adequate amps to the primary side. This is an area that
might be worth investigating before you send your coil off to Skip Haney, who will guarantee
you have a good long lasting coil, but of course cannot solve any "supply problems", such as
aftermarket Chinese points, condensers, OR current loss due to wiring issues.
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Flatbob |
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04-12-2012 @ 6:27 PM
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Must confess am not that knowledgeable about electrical system in an early V8, what comprises the "primary side" of the ignition system & what problems should I look for?
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TomO |
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04-13-2012 @ 7:34 AM
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The primary side of the ignition is from the battery to the ignition switch, to the ballast resister to the coil.
Check the voltage to the input of the coil. If it reads battery voltage, the points are open, tap the starter to close the points. The voltage reading should be above 3.6 volts with the points closed.
If the voltage is low, check the ballast resister and the ignition switch.
Tom
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