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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Engine & Trans Mounts

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Discussion Topic: Engine & Trans Mounts

V8JR

08-31-2016 @ 9:19 PM

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Any advice info on how tight (torque) one should put on the engine and the trans mount nuts before inserting the cotter pin? Car is a '39 but assume all flatheads are similar -Thanks, V8JR

GK1918

09-01-2016 @ 6:04 AM

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All thru bolts have a shoulder so the rubber & the washer is crushed to the shoulder with the
nut then the cotter pin. That is if the bolts are correct, not some hardward bolts somebody
put in there 50yrs ago......I have never torqued these because the rubber has crushed, just
tighten... Im a dead bulb, comes time to ex plane, we just installed a new EBA in a F3 with
all new front mounts. top and bottom rubbers bolt up thru bottom and you find maybe 2 or
three threads to start the nut - wind the nut down till it bottoms to the shoulder - done.
then cotter pin . hope this helps. sam

V8JR

09-01-2016 @ 9:52 PM

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Thanks GK1918 - gives me the direction I needed - V8JR

Drbrown

09-23-2016 @ 8:33 PM

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Your '39 may be different re the use of shoulder bolts. My '47 tranny mount uses two 1/2 inch grade 5 bolts and I believe they are OE. There the rear mount performs a different function than the front mounts such that the bolts hold the steel yoke of the mount against the feet of the tranny case. I used about 80 ft-lbs.

This message was edited by Drbrown on 9-23-16 @ 8:41 PM

TomO

09-24-2016 @ 6:43 AM

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The 39 Ford uses the same motor mounts at the water pump and the transmission. Tighten the nuts enough to allow the cotter key to enter the hloe in the bolt easily. With good rubber cushions, they will be slightly compressed.

Tom

09-24-2016 @ 8:23 AM

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What TomO said - no torquing involved....

Drbrown

09-25-2016 @ 9:23 AM

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What I encountered replacing my '47 front engine mounts .... the existing upper rubber pads were so old and compressed that their thru-bolts were hanging loose. I used a repro kit by Steele Rubber products which came with new hardware except for the 2" +- dia. top-washers (which I reused). Because of the cross-frame, tie rods, sway bar etc I could not jack the front of the engine to lift it to remove the front mounts. Jacking the center of the oil pan (using wood block) raised the whole car. Instead, I used a carpenters crow-bar (hook on end) in the engine compartment, between the frame and engine block, to slightly raise each side of the engine for the change-out. I had to use a small hydraulic jack beneath to push the new bolts up-thru high enough to get the new nuts started. The nuts were very tight by time I got them tightened enough to insert the cotter pins. The front of the engine now sits about 1/4 to 3/8 inch higher than before. I was concerned about the slight change in alignment of exhaust pipes, chatter rods, shifting and carb linkage but so far okay.

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