| 35wilson | -- 03-31-2015 @ 1:50 PM |
|
I have a 35 sedan with a 37 block. I took my upper rad hoses off to replace them. I noticed the old hoses have built in thermostats in the hoses. The new hoses I bought do not. Are these hoses still available somewhere to buy with the built in thermostats? Not sure what to do.....my old hoses are very hard....I don't trust them. Thanks Rob
|
|
| 35wilson | -- 03-31-2015 @ 4:03 PM |
|
These thermostats appear to be a butterfly style. Are they removable from old hoses and installed in the new ones? Or should I be looking at using a different style of thermostat? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 03-31-2015 @ 4:10 PM |
|
Thermostats fit in the 37 heads in the middle not in the hoses. No hoses come with built in TS's Unless you have 35 heads on a 37 block which is possible to do. I have hose TS's that go in the hoses if you need. ken ct.
|
|
| 35wilson | -- 03-31-2015 @ 4:52 PM |
|
I have 35 aluminum heads on the 37 block
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 03-31-2015 @ 5:35 PM |
|
Ok cut the hoses off the TS's clean them up and check in a pan of water heating up on a stove and see if they open. ID of 35-36 rad hoses are 1 3/4". if so there good to go reuse them. ken ct.
|
|
| 35wilson | -- 03-31-2015 @ 5:38 PM |
|
That's great Ken. Thank you very much. The engine always ran fine so I'm assuming they work....but ill give them a test first. Thanks again.
|
|
| drkbp | -- 03-31-2015 @ 7:43 PM |
|
35wilson, Since you have the TS's out and are checking them, be sure they are the same temp when you have them on the stove. I agree with ken ct. and would use them again if they open up correctly. However, I would not use a 160 in one head and a 180 in the other. Just a suggestion.... Check the temperature they open with a kitchen thermometer in that pan so if you come across some new ones, you will know what temp you are using and will have the right spares. ken ct. mentioned he had some. I use Bridgeports and they mark the boxes "Standard" which is 160 degrees or "High" which is 180 degrees. The TS's themselves are not marked. I prefer the 160's and have run them in my '35 Cabriolet for many years. The 155-160's tend to make the engine run on the cool side but I don't have a heater and live on the Gulf coast. When I do see them, I only buy the Standards. The Highs seem to be much more common though. Ken in Texas
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 03-31-2015 @ 8:51 PM |
|
Im opposite , I will only run the 180's accually their 175 . if you run a heater you wont get much heat out of it running 160. In that case the heater tap must be close as possible to the water pump before water goes through the TS.That's where its the hottest. ken ct.
|
|
| drkbp | -- 04-02-2015 @ 7:54 AM |
|
That is why there are two temps available. Heater or not, I place the thermostat at the top of the hose closest to the radiator. That puts your heater tap just above the water pump. So like ken ct. says, if you have a heater you need 180's if your car cools as it should. Another important point is that stock water pumps do pump at such a high rate that there will be blow-by out the radiator cap and overflow tube at highway speeds above 50 mph on the '35's if you run without thermostats. It will make such a mess in the engine compartment without the TS's. I can see no advantage whatever to a thermostat that leaves the hose more than 90 to 95% open on the 21 stud 1935 engine. The system already has more flow than it needs with any stock water pump I have seen or used. That's why the "washer" method came about. Ken in Texas
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=8368 |