| BRL | -- 04-20-2024 @ 10:17 AM |
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Hi Guys: In the process of restoring my steering tube, I decided to paint my column drop as well so I disassembled it. My car is a 1937 Phaeton. The column switch and lock did work OK, but I am mystified as to what is going on inside the assembly. See photos. On one photo where you see the switch box still assembled to the drop housing, there is a small screw threaded into a pressed in plug right next to the switch box...it is so close that someone actually filed or machined away part of the screw to clear the box. After I removed the box, the screw unthreaded easily and in the other photo you see the screw actually had a machined nose that seems to register in the longitudinal slot of the lock plunger (slide). This makes no sense to me because if the screw was threaded in to register in the lock plunger slot then the lock plunger would not be allowed to rotate. Before I disassembled the screw I did notice that the screw was not threaded in so far as to engage the plunger slot...so the plunger could still rotate. I plan on pressing out the plug and installing the new one seen in the photo since I see no purpose of the little modified screw. The other thing I think is not correct is that the plunger has a pin pressed into it for the on-off lever slot to register in...from what little documentation I can find, I think there should be a long "key" piece that registers the on-off lever slot and the slot in the plunger, and not the little pin...the pin pressed into the plunger must be a modification. If anyone has some knowledge of what is going on here and if they know what the parts configuration should be, please advise.
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| v8fordman | -- 04-20-2024 @ 7:47 PM |
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The plunger doesn’t rotate. It only slides in and out. The plug that has been drilled and tapped originally had a tab (you called it a machined nose) that indexed and oriented the plunger. That knurled plug piece that’s left must be removed without damage to the housing, then replaced with a correct plug. The small tab (machined nose) on the plunger serves as a stop for the ON/OFF lever when the key has moved it to the lock position. Once the plunger moves outward to the unlock position, the tab moves out of the groove in the lever allowing it to rotate, thus turning the brush while completing the ignition circuit. Put the ON/OFF lever on the plunger while it’s out of the housing, then slide it. You will see how it works if you remember the plunger doesn’t rotate. I hope this helps. This message was edited by v8fordman on 4-21-24 @ 4:48 AM
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| BRL | -- 04-21-2024 @ 10:39 AM |
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Hi V8Fordman: Thanks for explaining how it works...I did not really understand how the lever and plunger worked together and I thought the plunger rotated a bit...with your explanation and playing with the parts I understand how it works and am relieved I have all the correct critical parts...I just need to find a plug with a pin for the plunger but if I cant I will just re-use the existing modified plug and screw. Thanks again.
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| 3w2 | -- 04-21-2024 @ 4:55 PM |
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Whatever happened to the writing device invented to ease reading and improve comprehension? What was it called? Now I remember. It was the paragraph.
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| BRL | -- 04-22-2024 @ 9:21 AM |
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Hi Guys: Now that I think I understand how the 1937 ignition/steering lock assembly works I will make an illustrated disassembly/assembly guide and post it since I dont think anyone has made one for the 1937 configuration...the design of the column drop changed quite a few times in the 1930s.
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