Topic: Sandblasting metal prep

tex42	-- 01-22-2017 @ 4:35 PM
	I am going to take my 41 PU and have it sandblasted. My question is what type of metal prep should I put on it so it will not rust and I can do some metal work that involves welding? I know Pour 15 makes a metal prep, has anyone used it? Also if I put some metal prep on it, how long can I go before putting it in prime?
Stroker	-- 01-22-2017 @ 4:51 PM
	I've never been a "fan" of sand-blasting. I much prefer "soda" or "media" blasting, as it doesn't generate the heat that sand blasting does. That said, I your metal prep simply needs to be monitored. A "body in white" which you will have prior to metal work will rust overnight without a prep coating. I also favor the use of an Epoxy Chromate Primer, as a good base, followed by a "sandable" primer. This message was edited by Stroker on 1-22-17 @ 4:56 PM
tex42	-- 01-22-2017 @ 5:09 PM
	Can you weld on epoxy chromate primer? Btw, just using the term sandblasting as a generic term. Should have said media blasting.
Stroker	-- 01-22-2017 @ 5:20 PM
	Yes you can weld on and around Epoxy Chromate. It pretty "tough-stuff" and requires a catalyst to harden. I like it because it bonds to bare metal so well. I also like to coat the undersides of my fenders with "rock-guard" which helps keep those "pesky" rocks from denting my fenders when they fly off the old Firestones, and the "stuff" seems to self-heal after being cut with rocks. I'm sure rock-guard will cost "points" at a National Meet however.
marko39	-- 01-23-2017 @ 5:32 AM
	after media blasting, i use a product from Bill Hirsh called rust remover and metal prep which will remove rust in pits that blasting misses. it leaves a zinc coating on the metal preventing flash rusting. i then coat with epoxy primer.
wmsteed	-- 01-23-2017 @ 10:24 AM
	I would strongly suggest that, YOU DO NOT SAND BLAST THE BODY. Sand blasting can be very harmful to thin body metal. I know several very good body restoration men that will not work on body metal that has been sand blasted, sand blasting makes the metal brittle due to the heat build up in the metal and the "peening" effect which also adds to the metal being brittle. Chemical stripping of the metal is the preferred method to strip paint and rust. There are several companies that do chemical stripping, make sure they have tanks large enough to completely submerge the body and/or body pieces. I prefer companies that also offers chemical neutralization after the stripping process. In the past eighteen years I have had three cars chemically stripped. On two of the cars chemical neutralization was not offered by anybody in the area. On one of the cars I used JASCO Prep & Prime.. (Phosphoric Acid, Dichromate, Extenders and Wetting Agents..) This type of product converts rust into a metal prep prior to painting. EastMan and Bill Hersch sell a similar product. I put the JASCO into a plastic pump spray, spraying liberal coating over/into the entire metal surface. My '39 convertible coupe sat in a container for three years with nothing on the bare metal but JASCO. not one speck of rust formed on the body. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
TomO	-- 01-24-2017 @ 6:57 AM
	Before you have it media blasted, scrub and wash all of the parts with a wax remover. This will prevent the media blasting from forcing the wax or other contaminants into the metal. When you get the parts back clean with the wax remover again, then use a product like DuPont CF5717S to remove the flash rust and any other contaminants from the metal and follow that with a product like DuPont 5718 conversion coating to protect against flash rusting while you are preparing to paint with your epoxy primer. Tom
supereal	-- 01-24-2017 @ 7:42 PM
	When selecting a primer, check with the vendor selling the top coats. It is extremely important that the paint and primer work together to get a lasting, top grade finish.

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