| bkewin | -- 03-17-2012 @ 5:50 AM |
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I used the vacuum chart provided by supereal but I'm drawing between 25 1/2 and 26 1/2 inches. The lowest is 26 1/2 but a few times a second it blips an inch. I'm guessing maybe re-gap the plugs. I still don't have a timing light. I'm not sure if the new ones will work on a 6v system. I'm reading different things. some say they will others say I need a 12v battery within reach. The idle needles it seems were scr*w*d out too far, but it seems like after a point they didn't effect vacuum or rpms to my ear. I took em in one at a time till the motor stumbled and backed em out till max vacuum. I didn't do anything with the idle adjust as had to go meet some friends for supper. I'll go today and make a choice on the timing/dwell tach thing and I want to pipe this vac into the cab so I can watch what happens at speed. All this kind makes me wish I took auto shop instead of wood and metal shop 40 years ago. The 53 truck shop manual is kind of an education in its own right. Theory and everything. I don't remember getting theory in chiltons. Thanks again, Bill
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| supereal | -- 03-17-2012 @ 6:09 AM |
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The fact that the idle needles have limited effect can have a couple of causes. The carb throttle shaft may be worn, admitting air. An almost imperceptible amount of play can affect idle. Same is true of worn or badly fitting throttle plates. Vacuum leaks can be hard to spot. You can spray some carb cleaner at various places to see if the idle speed rises, or use an unlit propane torch for the same purpose. A worn valve guide may account for the "blip", but the position of the idle needles says not. Don't mess with the ignition until you eliminate the carb as a source.
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| bkewin | -- 03-19-2012 @ 4:43 AM |
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thanks, yeah the carb seems to have other issues. I tried the propane test but didn't really see anything at idle. after about 5 miles at 50+ she never is the same until she cools off. From a stop after a good run, she doesn't have the stuff. engine does that rolling thing at idle that I didn't know what they meant, and she is hesitant when I accelerate. feels rich and a smell of gas. no backfires. just doesn't have the pep. Temp guage looks normal, oil pressure normal. I still didn't run vacuu,m thru the firewall so can't say what is happening there. Thanks, Bill Maybe I should adjust idle then when she is rolling? I can try and clean the throttle body if I can find gaskets. can't do anything but replace a worn throttle plate/rod/whatever. probably have to trade for whole carb at that point.
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| supereal | -- 03-19-2012 @ 6:05 AM |
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Substitute a known good condenser. A weak or open condenser can mimic a fuel problem, particularly when the engine is hot. This includes lack of power.
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| bkewin | -- 03-23-2012 @ 5:50 PM |
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Supereal, the condensor was barely connected. I put a new one in but the first one pulled loose and was apparently just hanging there. I need to do a little more work but she seems to have more power now when warm. Next thing is moisture and carbon in the exhaust. mainly when just starting out. everything was dry after a 5 mile jaunt this evening. But my driveway looks like a double nought spy was blowing oil out his tail pipes. Again, vacuum 25 with a blip no real oil or water use I wonder if this loose condenser was gumming everything up. I can't tell you how much I value your input. I wish you had a shop around rowlett tx. Although she who must be obeyed doesn't seem to mind if I need to wash up my neck everytime I come in the house, as long as I don't stink up the garage with gas fumes. Im starting to grow right fond of this little truck. Best regards, Bill This message was edited by bkewin on 3-23-12 @ 5:52 PM
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| TomO | -- 03-24-2012 @ 8:36 AM |
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The carbon spewed by your engine was probably due to the bad condenser. Drive it around a few days to clean out the exhaust system and then recheck. The blip in the vacuum gauge could be due to a sticking valve. This is pretty common for an engine that has been sitting for a while. Add some Marvel Mystery oil to the gas and oil and drive the truck for at least 100 miles and retest. A compression test will verify the sticking valve, if you don't want to drive the truck. Tom
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| supereal | -- 03-24-2012 @ 11:07 AM |
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Glad you solved the problem, Bill. The repro condensers often have a poor connection where the terminal is attached.. Careful soldering is sometimes successful, if it doesn't cook the insulation inside the condenser. Blowing black stuff out the exhaust isn't unusual. Unless you drive a vehicle for at least ten miles after starting it cold, there is bound to be an accumulation of moisture and soot in the muffler. When the engine takes off, it blows the stuff out the tailpipe. I keep a piece of cardboard to catch it. I put duals and straight thru glasspack mufflers on my convertible, and it reduced the problem. With stock mufflers, there used to be a small hole in the outer casing at each end of the bottom to allow drainage. Most of the repros are missing this feature, but they could be added to reduce your problem. And, thank you for your kind words. This message was edited by supereal on 3-24-12 @ 8:45 PM
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| TomO | -- 03-26-2012 @ 8:48 AM |
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I drill an 1/8" hole at the bottom of the mufflers at the front and back. It does not change the sound of either the stock or glass pack mufflers and they last much longer. Tom
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| bkewin | -- 03-26-2012 @ 2:21 PM |
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Thanks!
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