| olefrank | -- 10-28-2014 @ 10:50 AM |
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I have a 1941 Ford Custom Deluxe with a Flathead V8. I thought I was having a fuel problem until I checked and found I'm getting a lot of fuel to the carb and it's going through the carb nicely. When I checked the plugs to see if I had an electrical problem I noted that I only got intermittent spark. I am part time in Oregon and part time in Arizona, where the car currently is, and years ago someone at this site told me about a fellow back in Kentucky or somewhere who rebuilt distributers, and he did mine and did a very nice job.. I don't think I replaced the condenser, but I'm sure I got a rebuilt distributer and coil . Does this problem sound familiar to anyone? Is there something I'm overlooking? Should I just get a new condenser and if so, how does the condenser come off the distributer housing? I'd sure appreciate any help I can get as this old car is scheduled to be in a parade in a month. Thanks in advance, Frank
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-28-2014 @ 11:05 AM |
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Frank, how old are your spark plug wires? Have you checked all plug wires for the intermittent symptom? Is the spark strong and blue, or weak and yellow? One or more of your plug wires can be shorted out, or you may have a carbon trace on a distributor cap. A new condenser is the cheapest and easiest problem to fix, unless it has gone on so long that it damaged your points. A rebuilt distributor should still be good, but may also be at fault. Not a bad idea to have a spare anyway. You can get a good rebuilt from Skip Haney in Florida, who will also reccomend a good condenser to go with it. Alan
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| olefrank | -- 10-28-2014 @ 4:30 PM |
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Alan. Thanks for the reply. Skip Haney was the man who rebuilt my distributer and coil. Thanks. I knew he was on the other side of the country from me. I'll check the wires though as that's pretty simple. I'll also clean the plugs and see about replacing the condenser. Do I need a special condenser for this or where do you suggest I go for this part? It's been so long since I've had to buy anything for this beast, I can't remember where to get stuff. Thanks again for all the info. I knew coming here was the place to find out stuff. Frank
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-28-2014 @ 5:15 PM |
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Frank, just take off your condenser and take it in to a Napa or most any pats store. They'll match it or match the microfarads or whatever and you're good to go. Take a look at your caps, also. Doesn't cost a nickle to look for a carbon trace. Alan
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| TomO | -- 10-29-2014 @ 7:38 AM |
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Check the ground connection of the condenser at the top bolt of the distributor mounting and at the side of the condenser where the grounding tab is soldered. If the bolt is loose or the soldered connection is not holding, you will get an intermittent spark. Another cause of intermittent spark is the primary feed to the coil. Check for voltage at the input to the coil. It should vary between 6 volts and about 3 volts as the engine is cranked by the starter. Your ignition switch, connection to the ignition resistor or the wire going to the coil are all possibilities. To remove the condenser, remove the top bolt, holding the distributor, on the passenger side of the car, then remove the 2 bolts holding the coil to the distributor and remove the coil. The condenser is fastened to the coil by one screw into the bottom of the condenser. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 10-29-14 @ 7:39 AM
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| olefrank | -- 10-31-2014 @ 2:42 PM |
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still having problems. Did all but check the voltage to the distributer. Will do that next, however, I did check to see if I had juice going there. I do. I'm getting ready to pull the distributer, change my wonder car to 12 volts and put in an electric ignition. That's my last alternative. Somethiing is going on between the coil and the plugs. What more does that leave? Thanks for all the help people.
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-31-2014 @ 9:48 PM |
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Frank, it's your car, do what you want. All we can do is hope our well intentioned advice is heeded. We can't be there to do it for you, so go right ahead and do it your way. Alan
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| TomO | -- 11-01-2014 @ 7:47 AM |
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Frank, I would send the coil and distributor to Skip Haney and have him check out both of them. Changing your car to 12 volts and an electronic ignition will not fix your problem, unless it is the coil or the distributor and repairing them is much less expensive and much less labor intensive. There are many V-8 Club members in AZ and maybe one of them can help you get the car running or direct you to a repair facility near where your car is located. Tom
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| supereal | -- 11-01-2014 @ 2:03 PM |
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Be advised that aftermarket solid state ignition systems tend to be less reliable than advertised. We see them now and them. The problem appears to be from the unstable voltage level in old cars
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| alanwoodieman | -- 11-01-2014 @ 4:20 PM |
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something that others may not be aware of--we had a 41 car on a AACA tour here and he kept having skipping problems and car would not run correctly, we took it to my garage and went thru dizzy a couple of times and could not find anything wrong-finally put a spare of mine on and the car ran like a top-owner sent distributer to Skip and had him rebuild it again-got it back and it still would not run on an engine we just rebuilt-took it apart and we fould carbon tracking on inside of rotor button, we put shrink tape on the rotor shaft along with another old rotor button and did nothing else-put it back together it it runs great
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| ford38v8 | -- 11-01-2014 @ 8:57 PM |
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Alan, that's good to know. Carbon tracing is very easy to miss even if you're looking right at it. Never thought it could also track down the rotor! Alan
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| alanwoodieman | -- 11-02-2014 @ 1:50 PM |
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we sawed the roto in half lengthwise and it became really obvious to what was happening. we have found one more like that one. my guess would be that the di-electric resistence of the soybean plastic has gone away
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